Question about 1993 Ford Probe
I've been trying to replace the driver side drive axle. It just wont break away. I got the ball joint to move but it is still stuck. i have spent 12 hrs trying everything to break it away. i've lubed it, heated it up, pried on it, jacked up the whole wheel assembly. still nothing. Please HELP!
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: CV Joint Axle Replacement
It's not an easy job, and a very messy one! If you have never done CV's before, I suggest you take it to a CV specialist, as they will do it quickly and cheaply in comparison to the hardship you will have to go through doing it yourself. These vehicles are common for the axles rusting into the hubs and siezing in there, and often the whole hub needs to be removed and the axle heated and pressed out. The new CV's often don't come with a tone wheel for the ABS system and you may need to swap the old tone wheel onto the new CV joint, and measure the alignment of it with the sensor when refitting.
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
Try replacing the Sway bar bushings first, 10 to 1 they need it anyway, this should fix the creaking noise. If this dose not solve the problem then check the power stearing fluid & top off if needed, then right after you do this, start the van and have some one you trust turn the stearing wheel hard left and hard right for 2 min., and you get under the front of the van and look for a power steering fluid leak, if you find a leak replace leaking line or part. If this dose not solve the problem in some rare cases the power stearing box or pitmen arm is bad and you should not try to do this at home. seek a full auto shop.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
hello,yes you do have to take the hub off to replace the ball joint with the ball joint being on the back side of the hub. hope this helps and please rate this.
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
my wheel bearing was making noises like that on pass side it would only do it on turns or curves but started doing it whenever i drove i would check that an bottom ball joints
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
theres 2 ways too fix that!! one is get some brass shiw stock it comes in a roll get about .005 thick! wrap several layers around the knuckle pin where is goes into the socket and then tigthen it up that will remove the play also you can heat the socket with a torch and then take a hammer and shrink the hole opening but if you call beards salvage in tulsa okla they can and will sell/ship you one
Posted on Jan 22, 2010
Testimonial: "Good idea about wrapping the pinch bolt. thanks for the confidence boost on using a BFH to beat it tight, I thought it would work."
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The lower control arm is a two-piece welded unit with a riveted ball joint. A conventional rubber bushing is used for the rear lower control arm pivot. The front lower control arm bushing is mounted vertically.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Some special tools are required to perform this operation including, a front hub spindle removal tool and a suitable ball joint separator tool.
WARNING Do not hammer or pry ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
See Figure 1
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the control arm-to-frame mounting
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