I bought a T/3 T4 T3 turbo charger 2.25" 4 bolt exhaust .48at turbo Charger 42ar oil cooled only for an 04 maxima and I'm wondering what accessories am I gonna need piping and intercooler wise and turbo exhaust manifold fuel pressure regulator and oil lines what else can someone help me out here? Thax

the turbo your mechanic put on was 2nd hand and knackered i expect ,,,,white smoke means turbo still gone ,,,,

well am not sure but i would go to the ppl were i bought the stuff and ask them sometime they would have what it takes to make the change rite there just ask

How many miles were put on the last oil change? Are you using a full synthetic oil? The amount of time the oil is in the engine doesn't really matter, it isn't like the oil has a 'use by' date on it. You also have to use a full synthetic oil as the heat in the turbo will 'cook' anything else. I go 5000 miles between changes on my turbo car and it isn't even water cooled like your turbo is. If you didn't go more than 6000 miles on the last oil change, I would demand arbitration so your case can be heard by a neutral party.

I haven't had the opportunity to see a CX7 in person but looking at the pictures, the turbo seems easy enough to reach. You'll have to drain the coolant and you may want to drain the oil as the level could be high enough to get out of the return tube coming from the bottom of the turbo. The bolts may be hard to remove from the exhaust but can be made easier by heating up the head of the bolt with a small torch, of course be careful not to set anything on fire. Since the turbo is a self-contained unit, there isn't anything to worry about falling out of getting out of place during removal.

I put together and installed my own turbo kit into my Escort about 6 years ago. I had a Garrett turbo that had a bad housing and even after 4 years of hard driving, the shaft never split. I put a cheap china turbo in there and it hasn't had any issue. Even if you went 10,000 miles on an oil change I can't see how that would cause the shaft to break. If the sludge built up to the point to stop the turbo from spinning, it wouldn't break. About the only thing I can think of that would make one break is improper balancing. Maybe that could happen from sludge, but I can't think of a way for it to happen. You really should get a copy of the entire warranty terms and see if an extended oil change can void your warranty. You should also exhaust all possible options before doing this yourself as if you do put the turbo on it, your warranty is definitely void. You typically find sludge in a turbo for a few reasons. A failed PCV system would cause the engine crankcase to become pressurized and that would coke up the oil. The turbo shaft seal can fail and force oil into the compressor housing and exhaust housing and then it would cook there until it became thick. The turbo cooling system can fail and the oil would cook each time you turn the vehicle off and cause it to coke up which would leave sludge. Of course, using anything but full synthetic would cause sludge no matter how well the rest of the system is working.

I realize I don't have a step-by-step for you to replace the turbo so if you to refuse the service and seek advice elsewhere, I won't hold it against you. But, I still think you should at least go to arbitration before you attempt this yourself as to protect your warranty. Just think, if your engine fails for some unrelated reason, they'll say it failed because you put the turbo on it.

If your turbo has coolant passages for cooling then it is possible. Most likely the issue is failed head gasket. You need to do a compression check or a cylinder leak down test to rule out a failed head gasket.

P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Range/Performance 16485
TSB Number: 3068 NHTSA Number: 10009606 TSB Date: n/a Date Added to File: October 8, 2004 Failing Component:Engine And Engine Cooling:Engine:Gasoline:Turbo-Charger Summary:Oil seepage from turbo air charge cooler hoses or hose blowing off during acceleration. Possible diagnostic trouble code P0299. Updated 04-24-07.there you go good luck

A new turbo charger is about $340, but you can buy the bearings and seals and rebuilt if yourself for about $100
http://turbosandparts.com/
It is not hard, and it does not take long to do.

I normally do not bother with synthetic, but with a turbo charger, it might be worth it. What really seems to ruin turbo chargers the most is not letting them cool off before parking.
Once you turn off the engine, there is no longer any cooling, so the build up heat will burn up the oil and seals.
Run the engine for at least 5 minutes below turbo levels, before shutting down the engine.

T3/T4 Turbo
Lubrication Kit "oil pump and lines"
Turbo Bracket
Intercooler
Intercooler Brackets
Aluminum Intercooler Piping
Silicone Couplings
T-bolt Clamps
Type RS Blow-off Valve
Stainless Steel Headers
Stainless Steel Downpipe
Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
Auto-meter Boost Gauge
Vacuum Harnesses
Cone Style Air Filter
PVC Filter

And to be able to Dyno Tune the engine for the extra boost. Nothing more then 8 PSI with out replacing the Pistons.

Might of forgot something but this are the major things needed.

The Garrett turbo-charger is notorious for leaking oil into the intercooler, and, into the emissions system. This happens because the bearing wears in the turbine assembly, and dumps lubricating/cooling oil into the combustion and intercooler system. It also ruins all of the rubber hoses that come in contact with the oil.

A result of this, after thousands of miles of driving: Your catalytic converter is clogged. The backpressure from the clogged exhaust increases the manifold temperature to cherry hot!

When I had my Volvo service and sales business, I lost money on only one Volvo; a turbo-charged 1988 wagon! A friend of mine who made his living salvaging Volvos had similar experiences with turbo-charged 240's and 740's. I hate to break the news to you my friend, but you will need to spend lots of money on that vehicle.

Trust me, do not try to fix it as it's a black hole---$700-900 for the rebuilt turbo ($250 for the rebuild kit), $200-300 for the catalytic converter and on and on! When I bought that vehicle from the original owner, It had a stack of repair receipts an inch thick!

The only recommendation, if you must keep and drive the car: remove the turbo-charger, intercooler, and all attendant hoses. Replace the air assembly with one from a normally aspirated B230F, and keep the airmass you just installed. Replace the catalytic converter with a good used one if you can find it.

Turbos are not something you want to mess with, unless you know what you are doing. Big bucks when the turbo goes south...
Best to go with a good shop that has the gizmos to do the proper analysis of fuel mixture, and ASE mechanics on duty.

take off turbo hose blowing into intake cheqe for pressure