More detail please? Fuel lever? How long does it runs until dying again?
SOURCE: lexus is300 headlamp adjustment
Is the car lowered? mine does that too but is has 1.4 inch lowering springs. i readjusted the hight of the lights manually and they work fine now.
SOURCE: 98 lexus gs300 codes p1120 p1121
I wanted to start a thread specifically about failures within the throttle body concerning the GS300 (1998 in my case)
My symptons were:
VSC, VSC OFF, and ENGINE Lights would come on, followed by my car going into Limp Mode, where only that last 25% (if that) of the throttle would respond (basically have to floor the pedal to even move at all).
During the mornings, or when the engine was COLD, the throttle operated normal...then once the car warmed up, usually at about 10 mins, the problem would start...it happened intermitantly at first...1 or 2 days over the course of a week, then it became more consitent, until last week it became a daily problem.
The first part I tried was the Throttle Position sensor, which is on the front side of the throttle body, and the easiest thing to replace...this didnt help at all. $300 part from Lexus, $80 part from RockAuto.com (exacly same part toyota OEM)
THE PART THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM:
===========================================
"Idle Valve Motor", which is the larger electrical object next to the TPS on my 98 GS300. Problem is solved.
The Codes I got were P1120 and P1121 - Accelerator Sensor problem. However it wasnt really the Accelerator Sensor, it was indeed to actual electrical Motor that controls the opening of the Butterfly valve inside the Throttle body.
I found the problem by good old trouble shooting, and using an ohm meter to see if the throttle electric motor was getting elev, I found that the elec motor just to the left of the TPS was basically freaking out and shutting down. The Accelerator Pedal Sensor is on the Back-side of the throttle body where the throttle cable connects to, and has a spring on it. It was fine.
GS300's are indeed "drive by wire" concerning the throttle...the cable triggers the Accel Pedal Sensor, which sends a signal to the ECU, the ECU then sends power to the Idel Valve Elec Motor (next to the TPS), which opens and closes the mechanical butterfly valve, then the TPS sensor detects how far the elec motor is actually opening the butterfly valve...its a closed-loop feed-back system, meaning any failure in any sensor will cause the entire systm to fail.
The throttle cable apparently is ONLY there to allow the fail-safe of having that last 10-25% throttle when the electronic system fails...there is a gearbox inside the throtle body which allows the tail end of the throttle to manually engage the butterfly valve...the rest of the time, the butterfly valve is 100% opened and closed via the idle control motor.
SOURCE: lexus gs300 dash lights ,sunroof,gear lever,windows, not working
hello freddy - the good news is that your lexus has a self diagnosis system built into it. this is what you need to do.
drive to an auto zone or similar autoparts store and have them put your lexus on their computer to scan for trouble codes. they offer this as a free service. with a little luck this scan will isolate the problem and the fix will be quick and easy.
if this doesnt fix it for you get back and let me know what codes popped up.
here is a link to the lexus trouble codes so you will have added insight. good luck.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Lexus/
SOURCE: Where is the fuel filter located on the Lexus
The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank and it can be reached by removing the back seat.
It should be between 1hour and 2hours.
Cheers.
SOURCE: I have a 2001 Lexus gs300 and I need to repair
Buy the sensors and put them on yourself. Buy the aftermarket. They are the same. OEM will cost you about $110 each, Aftermarket $65 each. I work for Bosch and run the line that makes oxygen sensors, there's a lot people don't know about aftermarket and OEM. These can be removed with a 22mm wrench or you buy a special oxygen sensor removal socket/wrench. It's a matter of getting it loose. Run the engine for 1-2 min to warm the exhaust, this helps to loosen the sensors and keeps from stripping the threads. If a shop does this $250-325 depending on shop rates.
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well your car could have a slow overheat on cooling system or either ignition coils(module) some how gets too hot after 3hours of driving. Either way get your car into an experienced shop and they'd check to see if there's a slow coolant leak, less likely be coil. What you can do is when your car is cold, check oil and water level at both radiator cap and overflow bottle. if it's down, top them both up to the mark, do some driving then let it sits and recheck. If coolant level goes down over time, that could be it, and we'll go from there. Cuz what I think happening is the Temperature sensor, gets the high reading then at one point tells the ECU to shut the car down to prevent engine damage. But it could be ALL SORTS OF things, I'm basically blind mate.
when the car shuts down, all the lights are on because key is at ignition on, all the warning lights must be on @ ignition on that's normal.
yes I have a slow leak in my radiator and everytime the car run for like 2 or 3 hours it goes into limp mode p1120 buti no it's nothing wrong with the sensor I think by it slightly overheating it triggers that code
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