Clutch travel to the floor

clutch pedals are suposed to go all the way to the floor , you sure you dont mean brake pedal (cus thats bad ! ) clutches should travel all the way to floor and release the "grab" of the engine about 2/3 down , this way they are more smoothly allowing shifting thru the gears and not jerking as you shift thru the gears , if clutch pedal does not start to "grab" the engines power by 2/3 off the floor and fully "grab"its power all the way up(slipping) ,and you have a hydraulic clutch (96's do) then the clutch disk may require replacement or there is a oil leak in the clutch/master/slave cylinder , look for small oil leaks from under car in area of foot pedals
clutches should be replaced as an assembly that includes , disk ,pressure plate, throwout bearing , with engine side clutch plate magnafluxed for heat cracks and any hydraulic oil leaks replaced or repaired

check for clutch travel and adjustment, as well as gear box oil level and correct grade, also make sure there isn't a floor matt hindering full pedal travel

First you must bleed the clutch fluid by pumping clutch pedal and holding down to the floor while a helper opens and closes the bleeder On the slave cylinder
If still no operation after that you probably need a clutch assy

Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely.
Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.

Hi Riaan, This is a two or three person job. Make sure the reservoir is full and kept full during the whole operation. open the bleeding nipple on the slave cylinder until clear fluid is seen running from the opening. Close the nipple and press the clutch pedal from the top of its travel to the floor four times and while the pedal is fully depressed open and close the bleeding nipple. Repeat until clutch pedal pressure feels correct. Make sure the reservoir is full and off you go. Regards John

You have a leaking master or slave hydraulic clutch cylinder. I recommend you replace both

A clutch pedal takes MUCH more travel to function correctly, when compared to a brake system...

A clutch needs to be replaced (maybe) when it SLIPS, Chatters, Or fails to release...

Other than that, the clutch will need to be adjusted to allow for total release of the relese bearing when pedal is released, and full disengaugement when pedal is depressed....Have a mechanic look at the adjustement, as proper adjustment gives longer clutch life. This is a periodic adjustment item.

this problem is caused by a leaking hydraulic clutch slave or master cylinder, the most likely cause is the slave cylinder down on the transmission, have a shop put it up and see where the leaking fluid is coming from, top or bottom..

first i would try adjusting the clutch cable because commonly people with think that they're clutch is going out when really just the cable has gotten stretched....try adjusting that first and if that works then you should be fine for another couple thousand miles but if you want to not have to worry bout it for awhile i would just replace teh clutch assembly....usually ranges from $200 to $450 depending on the clutch set and the mechanic that does the work for you. Let me know what happens. :)

DEar Customer,

your from is that your car is front wheel drive & you have to reset your car clutch point that loose its sensitivity as they had before,

its not a big prib you have to open bonet than make more active clutch wire with streching clutch joints.

THNX