Never remove a battery cable while the engine is running , you could do that with a generator , a alternators rectifiers diodes will burn out in no time flat, if the battery tests ok , there is a bad connection , clean the battery posts and terminals till they are shiny clean, and make sure the other ends of the cables are tight.
This could be an issue of a bad starter. The starter can be tested but it needs to be taken off the vehicle and tested on a machine which puts a load on it to see if it is working properly. Auto Zone and Advance Auto will test the starter fr free.
SOURCE: car died, repeated clicking noise when start attempt...
The clicking is the Starter Solonoid not getting enough CCAs from the battery to start it.
While running - the alternator should be able to charge the system to 14.4V.
11 volts you are experiencing tells me your alternator is faulty.
Your dash and other items were turning off/on while driving because the voltage probably dipped below 8.4v.
Your vehicle runs off the alternator power once started. The battery is only there to get the engine spinning initially.
A backyard mechanic's way to test the alternator is to start the vehicle - then remove the positive wire on the battery (coming from the alternator).
** If the vehicle stays running - the battery is problematic - probably a dead cell - have it LOAD tested at a local parts shop for free.
** If the vehicle dies shortly after removing the + battery wire - the alternator is failing - and replacement is necessary.
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SOURCE: 2001 Ford Explorer won't start. When you turn the
When u try to start the engine, do the lights on the dash board turn off and come back when u release the key. If the do the battery connections are loose or the battery needs charge. If u start the engine and the lights don't turn off they stay lit something is wrong with the starter or the relay for the starter not working
SOURCE: 2004 Ford Explorer won't start after battery recharge
A FORD MACHANIC HAS TOLD ME THAT IN FACT THE KEY HAS TO BE RECODED. MY SITUATION IS EXACTLY THE SAME. HE SAID TO RECODE THE KEY I HAD TO TURN THE IGNITION TO THE RUN POSITION, THE SECURITY LIGHT ON THE DASH WILL FLASH RAPIDLY AND CONTINUE TO FLASH FOR 15 MINUTES . WITHIN FIVE MINUTES AFTER THE LIGHT STOPS FLASHING I MUST TURN OFF THE IGNITION FOR ONE SECOND AND TURN IMMEDIATLY BACK TO THE RUN POSITION FOR 15 MORE MINUTES. THE LIGHT WILL GO OFF AGAIN . WITHIN 5 MIN. I MUST TURN OFF THE IGNITION FOR ONE SECOND AND TURN BACK TU RUNNING POSITION. 15 MINUTES LATER REPEAT STEPS AGAIN AND THE KEY WILL BE REPROGRAMMED, AND STSRT THE CAR. GOOD LUCK MY CONTACT IS A FORD MASTER MECHANIC.
SOURCE: 2002 ford explorer wont start even after new battery...
Before you go changing out the starter check for a burnt out fusible link going to the starter it will look like a wire but acts as a fuse and they burn in two just like a fuse. The symptoms you just describe are those of a burnt fusible link.
SOURCE: 2002 ford explorer eddie bauer crank but won't start up.
Hello
The engine
and transmission in this cars drive train are fully
electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train
Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer
stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions
to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and
MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory,
to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned
with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must
perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the
problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN
HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPEDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON
PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM
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