Cam sprocket moved backward and wont turn fordward.

2.2L & 2.3L Engines
Except S2000 with 2.2L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Remove the cylinder head (valve) and upper timing belt covers.
3. Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to Top Dead Center (TDC). The white mark on the crankshaft sprocket should align with the pointer on the timing belt cover. The words UP embossed on the camshaft sprocket should be aligned in the upward position. The marks on the edge of the sprocket should be aligned with the cylinder head or the back cover upper edge. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed.
4. Remove all necessary components for access to the lower timing belt cover, then remove the cover.
5. There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft sprocket is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer shaft belt or timing balancer belt. Lock the timing belt adjuster in position, by installing one of the lower timing belt cover bolts to the adjuster arm.
6. Loosen the timing belt and balancer shafts tensioner adjuster nut, do not loosen the nut more than one turn. Push the tensioner for the balancer belt away from the belt to relieve the tension. Hold the tensioner and tighten the adjusting nut to hold the tensioner in place.
7. Carefully remove the balancer belt. Do not crimp or bend the belt; protect it from contact with oil or coolant.
8. Remove the balancer belt sprocket from the crankshaft.
9. Loosen the lockbolt installed to the timing belt adjuster and loosen the adjusting nut. Push the timing belt adjuster to remove the tension on the timing belt, then tighten the adjuster nut.
10. Remove the timing belt by sliding it off the sprockets. Do not crimp or bend the belt; protect it from contact with oil or coolant.
11. If defective, remove the belt tensioners by performing the following:
    1. Remove the springs from the balancer belt and the timing belt tensioners.
    2. Remove the adjusting nut from the belt tensioners.
    3. Remove the bolt from the balancer belt adjuster lever, and then remove the lever and the tensioner pulley.
    4. Remove the lockbolt from the timing belt tensioner lever, then remove the tensioner pulley and lever from the engine.
12. This is an excellent time to check or replace the water pump. Even if the timing belt is only being replaced as part of a good maintenance schedule, consider replacing the pump at the same time.
13. To install:
14. 1. If the water pump is to be replaced, install a new O-ring and make certain it is properly seated. Install the water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
    2. If the tensioners were removed, perform the following procedures:
       1. Install the timing belt tensioner lever and the tensioner pulley.
       2. Install the balancer belt pulley and adjuster lever.
       3. Install the adjusting nut and the bolt to the balancer belt adjuster lever.
       4. Install the springs to the tensioners.
       5. Install the lockbolt to the timing belt tensioner, then move it its full deflection and tighten the lockbolt.
       6. Move the balancer it's full deflection and tighten the adjusting nut to hold its position.
    3. The pointer on the crankshaft sprocket should be aligned with the pointer on the oil pump; the camshaft sprocket must be aligned so that the wordUP is at the top of the sprocket and the marks on the edge of the sprocket are aligned with the surfaces of the head or the back cover upper edge.
    4. Install the timing belt on the sprockets in the following sequence: crankshaft sprocket, tensioner sprocket, water pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket.
    5. Check the timing marks to be sure that they did not move.
    6. Loosen, then retighten the timing belt adjusting nut; this will apply the proper amount of tension to the timing belt.
    7. Install the timing balancer belt drive sprocket and the lower timing belt cover.
    8. Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt, tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). Rotate the crankshaft sprocket 5-6 turns to position the timing belt on the sprockets.
    9. Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC and loosen the timing belt adjusting nut one turn. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the cam sprocket has moved 3 teeth; this creates tension on the timing belt.
    10. Tighten the timing belt adjusting nut.
    11. Set the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket to TDC. If the sprockets do not align, remove the belt to realign the marks, then install the belt.
    12. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower cover.
    13. With the timing marks aligned, lock the timing belt adjuster in place with one of the lower cover mounting bolts.
    14. Loosen the adjusting nut and ensure the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
    15. Align the rear timing balancer sprocket using a 6 x 100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.9 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the bolt/rod into the hole and align the 2.9 in. (74mm) mark with the face of the hole. This will hold the shaft in place during installation.
    16. Align the groove on the front balancer shaft sprocket with the pointer on the oil pump.
    17. Install the balancer belt. Once the belts are in place, be sure that all the engine alignment marks are still correct. If not, remove the belts, realign the engine and reinstall the belts. Once the belts are properly installed, slowly loosen the adjusting nut, allowing the tensioner to move against the belt. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole and reinstall the bolt and washer.
    18. Install the crankshaft pulley, then turn the crankshaft sprocket 1 turn counterclockwise and tighten the timing belt adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    19. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the bolt locking the timing belt adjuster in place.
    20. Install the lower and upper timing belt covers, and all applicable components. When installing the crankshaft pulley, coat the threads and seating face of the pulley bolt with engine oil, then install and tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm).
    21. Install the cylinder head cover gasket cover to the groove of the cylinder head cover. Before installing the gasket thoroughly clean the seal and the groove. Seat the recesses for the camshaft first, then work it into the groove around the outside edges. Be sure the gasket is seated securely in the corners of the recesses.
    22. Apply liquid gasket to the four corners of the recesses of the cylinder head cover gasket. Do not install the parts if 5 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. After assembly, wait at least 20 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
    23. Install the cylinder head (valve) cover and all other applicable components.

Most Ford products are designed so the seat belt latch by the center console moves with the seat. The bottom of the latch rides on the seat rail, and with time sometimes it builds up a little play on the rail. As the seat moves forward or back, the seat belt guide often tilts forward or back, just a bit, on the rail, and gets stuck. So you can move forward or back just a bit, but then it jams and you can hear the motor, but can go no further.

The long term fix is to remove the seat, disassemble the seat belt guide and rail, and usually replace some parts.

But the short term solution is often to simply hold on to the seat belt latch and rock it forward and away from the seat as you try to go forward or back. Or, sometimes it works best to rock it backwards and away from the seat as you try to move forward or back. It all depends on which way it is binding.

There's no guarantee that it won't jam again if you move it all the way back or forward, but once you find the right position to hold the seat latch in while moving the seat, you should be able to re-adjust it where you need it to be.

With the engine at TDC, the small mark on the crank sprocket and intermediate shaft sprocket for the cam timing belt should be pointing at each other (also along the C/L of the center of these pulleys). Then the cam sprocket has two little arrows (triangles) opposite each other that point at the center of two holes in the sprocket. You should line up these arrows with the junction of the #1 cam tower cap and the head (you will be able to see this clearly through those holes). Then install the belt without moving any of these. Start at the crank and work to the intermediate shaft, then to the cam. There should not be any obvious slack in the belt as you do this. Finally get the belt past the tensioner, tension the belt. If you do not have the tensioner tool, then the belt is properly tensioned when you cannot rotate the belt more than 90 degrees or 1/4 turn midway between the cam and intermediate sprockets. You should turn the engine over a couple of revolutions and recheck every thing. One more method of setting the timing belt tension is that there should be approx. 5/16" of deflection from center possible midway between the cam sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket, about where the head meets the block. Also, 90 degrees twist should just be possible midway between the cam sprocket and the intermediate sprocket. I pulled this from the Haynes book.
An easy way to check your cam timing without having to look at the engine sprockets, is to turn your engine to TDC using the flywheel mark, and look at your cam sprocket. Make sure the little arrows are lined up on the cam bearing seam. I use a mirror to get a straight look at it, since your head won't fit in there :)This will ensure cam-crankshaft alignment, and the intermediate shaft alignment is not quite as critical and and be a tooth or two off since it only times the distributor, which of course can itself be rotated when you tune-up your car.NOTE: After replacing the timing belt , turn the engine over a few times by hand and recheck the tension and timing mark alignment . Get your timing light, if it has an advacne dial, set it to 12M-0, if not set the timing to 0M-0, then shine the light into the little hole in the side of the timing belt cover. You should see a hole in the cam sprocket in there, if it's in the middle of the hole, cam timing is OK, if it's towards the front, it's advanced, towards the back, it's ******** a tooth. The timing belt is adjusted by a counter weight tool. Just the weight of the tool is all the tension you need. I check with a tool rental or parts store to see if you can rent one. There is very little tension on the belt, to much and it makes noise and to little and belt will jump. So if you can, find the tool.

if you use marks on the belt,try to revers or rotate t/belt untill marks lined up correctly with marks on sprockets.Use something like big binder clips to hold belt on camshaft sprockets(line them up first) , then go for crank.

TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

remove drive belts and water pump pulley remove plastic cover and crank pulley line marks on cam with marks on valve cover should be at 12 o clock then there is a notch in crank gear that lines up with *** on the block at about 1 o clock the tensioner is spring loaded 14mm nut loosen this nut use a pry bar to push tensioner back snug nut so pulley wont come back remove belt when installing new belt use paper clibs wit the rods that flip over to hold the belt on the pulleys be sure timing marks on cam are lined up before attaching clips as they will move when belt is removed after belt is installed and tensioner is tight turn engine by hand until cam marks are lined up be sure all marks are lined up if they are reassemble everything and happy motoring

The pistons may be shot. If not this then the head geasket may have gone.

If your belt came with marks, then they should match the marks that are on the sprockets and block, if not, you must have the cam marks align with those on the engine. If you're in doubt about the exact spot, lay a tooth pick across the sprockets so that you can check alignment to the block.

Take all the slack out of the long side of the belt and I like to use a pry bar to push against the tensioner and it'll take the rest of the slack out. Rotate the engine by hand twice forward and once backwards and double check to make sure your timing marks are still lined up. If so, you're good. If not loosen the belt again, but this time move the cam sprocket 1 tooth advance and do the same thing over again. This should be right on the money after you rotate the engine twice forward and once in backwards.

What you do is line up the lower mark. Go to the upper sprocket and move the sprocket 1 tooth back(counter clockwise). After the belt is on, Rotate ONLY the upper sprocket to take up the slack in the long side of the belt being careful of not moving the lower sprocket. The upper spocket should now be exactly where it should be. Release the tensioner and I like to use a big screw driver or something to "preload" the tensioner before fully tightening it. The belt should have really good tension. The rule of thumb is the long side of the belt should not be able to twist 90 degrees to the engine. If it's more that that, ou need to tension it up tighter.