06 Stratus shut down on highway replaced starter plugs wires n coil pack won't start

This vehicle does not have a distributor , has electronic ignition system . Has coil pack , rectangular box with four plug wires plugged into it . What color wires were they , at the coil pack ? Are these wires going to the connector at the coil pack ? Should have battery + voltage and ground and wires going to the engine computer for control . What did the wires under the dash go to ? What color ? Looking at wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in the starter electrical circuit an the testing should be done , not trying to guess your way through a repair .

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Hey Brian, please don't loose your calm! You CAN fix it!.

Look for a timing belt with a skipped tooth.
Another possibility is that your sparkplugs are not properly gapped or their internal resistor got damaged. (A too large gap will make spark too hard to jump, which ended burning the hole you saw. A too large gap is very difficult to jump and places a tremendous effort on the coil and plug cables. Some times resistor type sparkplugs get the resistor damaged or open, at first, the open circuit can be jumped (inside the damaged plug body) easily, but as gap grows, it will cause an excessive voltaje to damage the coil or wires.


An engine starter that drains too much current means that it is damaged and possibly its bearings are too worn, which places a lot of friction on them, and the por electric motor then has to draw a lot of amperes to turn, draining the battery. Bad starter cable or ground connection causes a high voltaje drop to the starter motor, lowering the cranking speed, difficulting engine starting too.

Finally, a NO SPARK with no voltaje at coil primary means the DIS module that supplies current to the coil went bad, possibly because the too high voltaje leaked from the sparkplug end of the coil into the DIS module, damaging its internal semiconductors.

So, you need to FIX the sparkplugs, then cables, then check the coil, connectors, and, when everything on the High Voltaje side is perfectly OK and cannot damage any newly installed replacement parts, then you can go and check/replace the DIS module. Hopefully, the leaked high voltaje didn't damage the computer or Engine control module, as it is expensive. Best luck, Amclaussen.

Reminds me of when a friend of mine had a car with carbon tracks on the distributor cap. I wiped it clean and it worked perfectly. Are the plug cables going to the correct cylinders in the correct order? A hanes service manual actually put the wrong order down in a mustang manual.

crank sensor or coil pack

I follow your story and found it very interesting. Looks like as the vehicle was driven decided to get relaxed. For what you done up to now you spent quite good amount of money with no results. Has at all passed from your mind whether all that cause by means of immobilizer activation or any fuel pump failure? The Knock Sensor want stop deadly the car. It causes misfiring,stalling etc.Hope this help, Good Luck.

you burned it down lol ..do a compression check first sounds like it got hot like hot hot ... warped head when they get that hot sesors burn also . just saying . back to the begining what really made it get hot just saying most people put fluid back in but you still got the first problem ????

Coil pack should in the front top of motor, with engine running remove one spark plug wire at a time from coil pack ( careful not to get shock ) they should all have spark, if one don't replace coil pack.

The injector could definitely trigger a misfire code, but you also mentioned that you had a mass airflow sensor code , that code code be responsible for te sluggish moment of the vehicle and rpm going up and down. However if you have a misfire onCyl#6 and the coil and the plug is good the ONLY other thing to cause a mis-fire would be the injector. To check the injector get a NOID light, you can get one at almost any auto-parts place. To use unplug injector plug from the bad injector and connect it to NOID light the light should have a steady PULSE/ligt flickering. If light flickers fine then injector is bad and will need to be replaced. If light doesn't flicker or flickers intermittently then you may have a bad wiring to that injector. Check if wiring is good, then you may have a bad cam sensor or sensor gear. Good Luck and contact if you need more help. Thanks for using FIX YA