I just replaced my front rotors, pads, and calipers on a 98 olds achieva. After doing this I bled the the front brakes but am now experiencing a very soft pedal. I am wondering if something else could be wrong or if I didn't bleed the brakes enough(I did it about 10 times each on both sides)

Sometimes contaminated brake fluid will cause a flexible brake hose to perish internally and prevent fluid flowing.
This isn't likely to be your problem considering you have bled the brake and probably had a good delivery of fluid. Considering the caliper is new and presumably has a good fluid delivery to it there seems no reason why the caliper doesn't move out and grip the rotor as it should.

I remember a similar problem where the pads were fitted with a strong anti-rattle spring. If the spring was incorrectly fitted it was strong enough to push the caliper piston back...

William, did you use the correct bolt(length), did you check all brackets, sliders, seized caliper, pads for damage, free movement, etc.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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How To Install Replace Brake Pads and Rotors Dodge Durango Dakota 97 03...

How To Replace the Front Brakes on 98 03 Durango

How To Replace Front Pads And Rotors Dodge Dakota

I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted.
First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper ,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor.
http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html

will try to help. 1st remove the wheel, then remove the 2 caliper bolts that hold the brake caliper on. after removal of brake caliper, [it should just pull off after the 2 bolts are removed] replace the brake pads[be sure to apply anti squeal lube to the outer side of the pads..not the pad itself,the one not contacting the brake rotor] install the pads, the you will need a C clamp to push the brake caliper pistons back into the caliper. i've used this installation easily. use the old pad ,place it against the caliper piston,then apply the C clamp and push the caliper piston back into the brake caliper, then the brake caliper will slide back over the new pads easily, no need to bleed the brakes if you use this solution. replace the brake caliper bolts, then go to next side and repeat the process. after the replacement of the front brake pads,pump the brakes with engine running!!! it's really a simple process. be sure the brake pads are facing the brake rotors with the [pads] facicing the rotors. no metal facing metal. easy! if you have added brake fluid recently, do not be alarmed if you see fluid coming out of the brake master cylinder,when you use the C clamp to collaspe the brake caliper back into the recessed position. [as always when you have to add brake fluid to the brake master cylinder,it only means your brakes are wearing naturally. if you have a vibration in front wheels or steering wheel when braking, you have a brake rotor or both front brake rotors that need replacement with your brakes also. hope this helps and as always, please get a second opinion if you have doubt. an expert will be happy to help. thank you for choosing fixya.com

Front brake
Step 1: Identify Front Disc Brake Components

Front Wheel Drive Brake Assembly
Most front disc brake components include: brake rotor, brake pads, brake caliper, caliper mount and brake flex hose. Brake service usual occurs between 20,000 and 40,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions and brake pad/ rotor materials used.
Step 2: Remove Brake Caliper to Replace Pads

Removing Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts
Locate primary caliper mounting bolts; apply wrench pressure counter-clockwise (When looking at the head of the bolt) to remove the bolts, upper and lower. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.
Step 3: Remove Front Brake Caliper

Remove Front Brake Caliper
After removing the primary caliper mounting bolts lift the brake caliper off of the rotor and then tie or secure to the side, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed. Next remove the brake pads (If not mounted in the caliper) and secondary caliper mounting bolts. Notice how great protective gloves work, most technicians use them on the job today.
Step 4: Remove Brake Pads

Remove Front Brake Pads
Once the brake pads have been removed, make sure if there is anti rattle hardware to transfer to the new brake pads. Some brake pad manufacturers will include the proper lube (Caliper slides) and anti-rattle hardware to ensure proper performance of their product.
Step 5: Remove Caliper Mount

Remove Caliper Mount Bracket
Finish removing secondary caliper mount bolts and remove caliper mount. Note: clean and lube caliper slides and pad friction surfaces of all foreign material or build-up.
Step 6: Remove Brake Rotor

Remove Brake Rotor
With the caliper mount out of the way you can now remove the brake rotor. Sometimes it can get stuck so you may need to tap it with a hammer or use penetrating oil to free it up. Some manufacturers use small screws to hold the rotor on as well. Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged. Also clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.
Step 7: Depressing the Brake Caliper

Resetting Brake Caliper
To install the new brake pads you must retract the brake caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder lid or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary. Install C clamp tool and gently tighten clamp until caliper piston is fully depressed. Note: use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Close the bleeders once the piston is retracted completely
Step 8: Installing New Brake Rotor

Install Brake Rotor
Install new brake rotor, the new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete you may experience a small amount of smoke from the rotor when first used. This is normal and will go away after the first couple of uses.
Step 9: Installing New Front Brake Pads

Installing New Brake Pads
Reinstall the front brake caliper mount, and then install front brake pads. Make sure the pads are seated properly in the caliper mount; it must be a close fit to work properly..
Step 10: Reinstall Front Brake Caliper

Re-Install front Bake Caliper
Reinstall front brake caliper and reinstall caliper-mounting bolts, recheck all mounts and mounting bolts. Check the caliper slides to be sure there is no bind and that the caliper moves freely back and forth on the caliper slides. Bleed brake system per manufacturer's specifications to relieve any air trapped in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly, repeat until normal brake pedal operation resumes, this operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors.

The problem lays with the Caliper itself and/or the brake hose connected to the Caliper.
However if you replaced the pads, did you also replace the Rotors or have them Turned? The old pads wear the rotor. New pads on old rotors that have not been replaced or turned may end with rubbing or stuck brakes.
A simple way to test whether it's one and/or the other:
1. Remove the Caliper from the rotor, remove the pads. Keep for now the caliper attached to the brake hose.
2. Very slowly push on the brake, exposing more of the piston out of the bore. Not all the way. Usually until the rubber dust seal/boot is fully extended.
3. Check the seal/boot for cracks and tears, and if clean or not. Bad seals may prevent the piston from re-seating.
4. Using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try repushing the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (the cup back into the hole). It should go back in realitively easy.
5. If it doesn't go back in easy: Again slowly pump the brake and re-push the pistons back out to full extended seal/boot (but not the piston out of the bore).
6. Detached the brake hose from the caliper.
7. Again using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try again to repush the caliper piston back into the bore without the hose attached. If it goes back-in relatively easy - the caliper is okay...it is the brake hose.
8. If the caliper piston does not go back in easily - Replace the caliper.
9. When Installing the new (reman) caliper, remember to bleed the brakes.
TRY EITHER OR #10 OR #11 BELOW:
After the new Caliper is reattached to hose and has been bled:
10. Again push on the brake petal to fully extend the caliper piston fully (rubber seal/boot fully extended) Again do not push the piston out of the bore! Try pushing the piston back into the bore. If it does not re-seat relatively easy: Replace the brake hose.
11. Another method: After replacing the new caliper back on the rotor: Assumng the entire front end (2WD front wheel drive) or entire vehicle (2WD rear wheel drive) or (4WD all the time) is jacked up off the ground
a. Put the lug nuts back on the rotor.
b. Have helper Start the vehicle and place in Drive. Don't step on gas!
c. Have then let off the brake and then engage the brake.
d. When they let off the brake watch to see if the Rotor is turning or not, if rubbing or not. Or if still sticking.
e. With a new caliper, turned or new rotors, and still a problem? It is the brake hose!
12. Replace the brake hose and try again.

Another method but more expensive:
OR Replace the calipers, brake hoses; bleed and test!

If this helped or not; or if you need additional help or have addtional questions let me know on fixya.com!

Check to make sure backing plate behind rotor is not rubbing.

You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

probably need to be bled again on that side

Very easy. Jack up the front of the car and support it with two sturdy jackstands. Remove the front wheels. To the brake fluid nipple on the caliper (the part that squeezed the pads against the rotor), attach a small tube leading to a drainpan, open the nipple, and push back the brake pads from the rotor with a broad screwdriver. Close the nipple. Be careful not to damage the pads if you are not replacing them. (It would be wise to replace the pads when you replace the rotors, though).

Two bolts hold the brake caliper onto the steering knuckle. Remove both bolts, preferably with an impact wrench, and remove the caliper. On some cars the bolts have indented 10mm hex-wrench heads rather than standard bolt heads, so you may need to acquire a new tool. Be careful to support the caliper so you do not damage the hydraulic brake hose. Slip the old rotor off the studs and replace it with your new one. New rotors are packed in oil which will damage your brake pads, so clean the new rotors with vinegar before installing them. Replace the caliper and pads. Check to see you have sufficient brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir before operating the vehicle. If the brakes seem at all spongy, bring your car to a qualified mechanic to inspect your work and to bleed the brake hydraulic syatem. Always do both front rotors, never just one. Otherwise, your car will **** violently to one side when you brake.