The engine usually has been running for a while then it could quit while it is running but more so after you shut it off. then it wont start until it cools off again. Here is what have been replaced: 1. coil pack 2. electronic ignition unit with properly applied heat sink grease on a good flat surface. 3. new fuel filter an fuel pump 4.new map sensor 5. new crankcase sensor 6. new alternator(was making a noise when ignition on) thought it was feeding back into the electronics. also was running real hot. 7. new coolant sensor. what I have noticed is the cooling fan works when the temperature rises too high and shuts off as it should, but also I have reason to believe it might not be working sometimes when it should. This model does not have a cam sensor according to the service book diagram, or even a crank sensor behind the harmonic balancer. I am looking for the shut off relay now. It acts just like one that was tripped. I know! I had a ford escort and since I live on a dirt road a rock popped up under the car and thumped the car and it quit. It shut off the shut off switch. Anyhow there is plenty of fuel pressure it was as that was tested by a service facility after it quit. I was there to verify. Any ideas how I can fix this car?
Do a fuel pressure check .
did that already that's why the fuel pump and filter was changed. it was 15 lbs now 45lbs
One thing I noticed that was weird. When I heard a noise from the alternator while not running and key on I thought the noise might be going back and fouling the computer up. So I took the charge wire off the alternator and tried to start it. It started. Put it back on and it wouldn't start but trying the third time. I couldn't prove it one way or another, that was why I changed ther alternator out. The new alternator still makes a noise but the frequency of the noise is lower in frequency. Tomorrow I will try again and see if it works pulling the charge wire off. Weird I know but I am digging for answers. Tomorrow I will try the knock sensor. I do know if they are shot the car will not run right. Maybe not at all I suppose.
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When the failure occurs what do you lose, Fuel or Spark? A few ideas come to mind, the distributor, oil sending unit, or a fault at or inside the fuse-box. Your description is very detailed and it looks like you have invested some time into this repair. Hang in there, you a narrowing down your search with each inspection and repair. Write back anytime, good luck.
I can hear the fuel pump turning on before I try to start it. I quickly ran to the gas tank to hear. Also has fuel under pressure at the valve at the intake
I also checked the fuses when this happens with a volt meter checking voltage on each side of the fuses. I went to test to see if I had voltage at one of the injectors and I have. tested both sides with key on, although I didnt check while cranking. I am assuming I have spark because it sounds like it is going to start but doesn't. When I accidentally blew the fuse to the injector assy I cranked on the engine and it was dead with no trying, so yes I would say there is spark. In the right time I dont know. Since this does not have a distributor can tell..
AdI have not replaced thhe knock sensor but will tomorrow. maybe it is getting hot and giving some weird info to the computer. The sensors I have not replaced are the throttle sensor,knock sensor, oil sending sensor. I will pull those from a junked car in the bone yard uptown.
Add a CommentI am sorry, but I keep hitting enter instead of just typing so it sends. I did find a broken vac hose, well almost broken. went to my inside car controls,vent direction change etc. I broke the plastic stem it went into by accident so I plugged the hose so no vac leak. this has had a total of two ignition modules three counting the original. I cannot figure this thing out and under a crunch for time. My son is in desperate need for a car. his car has a blown head gasket and who knows what else. I thought I was going to get this in time as I do have pretty good troubleshooting skills, better than most.at the moment I am out of ideas and frustrated. I have looked over the schematic for this car and it is pretty basic. But I do not know what the computer thinks it sees that stops it from working. It is almost like something has to cool to reset. like a thermal switch, a crack in a sensor body(whats left?) knock sensor and throtlle sensor. I can check the throttle sensor but cant believe that would have anything to do with starting. o2 sensors dont come into play until started and they even look new. It did pass smog. I was able to drive it there and get it smogged the it quit. couple hours later I got it started and made it to get license plates. 10 minutes to spare. then it quit again. towed it home. I bought this car a couple days ago. dang thing is about new now. I want to fix it before something else fails.
knock sensor measures .014-.021 nf capacitance cold
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