I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7, I have 3 different ECM's and they all are having the same issue. I am not getting ground from the ECM to the Map sensor.

I have a '93 GC with simiular problems. Turned out that the female pins expanded over time. You can replace the MAP sensor pin. Chrysler dosent make it for mine, but they have replacement pins. I have a '93 GC with simiular problems. Turned out that the female pins expanded over time. You can replace the MAP sensor pin. Chrysler dosent make it for mine, but they have replacement pins.

Troy, he never posted the DTC or any volts yet on any pin, just general statemments that DONT HAVE voltage here, vague. Sure , any sensor with with a bad pin fails. but the voltmeter reading tell all that in 1min. flat. tell the readings, and not be vague. eg, pin orange is 1v... BAM. easy, huh? . Troy, he never posted the DTC or any volts yet on any pin, just general statemments that DONT HAVE voltage here, vague. Sure , any sensor with with a bad pin fails. but the voltmeter reading tell all that in 1min. flat. tell the readings, and not be vague. eg, pin orange is 1v... BAM. easy, huh? .

i see he is throwing parts. there is no reason to do that. 5min with a voltmeter and we find it. the map is very simple easy sensor, it just measure, the plenum air pressure (absolute) its and analog output, and varies with vacuum per the FSM tables. A BARO sensors it is. i see he is throwing parts. there is no reason to do that. 5min with a voltmeter and we find it. the map is very simple easy sensor, it just measure, the plenum air pressure (absolute) its and analog output, and varies with vacuum per the FSM tables. A BARO sensors it is.

when checking spark at,put plug in coil and crank over as iam cranking i see spark getting weeker,how do i check to see if ASD is working properly when checking spark at,put plug in coil and crank over as iam cranking i see spark getting weeker,how do i check to see if ASD is working properly

the ASD drops out for many reasons, but when you crank, the ASD closes. and stays closed for 2 seconds, IF all tests pass, (ECU logic) then the relay stays closed and engine runs, if the tests fail the ECU drops the ASD relay, in 2 seconds flat , this kills spark and injectors, the ASD drops out for many reasons, but when you crank, the ASD closes. and stays closed for 2 seconds, IF all tests pass, (ECU logic) then the relay stays closed and engine runs, if the tests fail the ECU drops the ASD relay, in 2 seconds flat , this kills spark and injectors,

http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html

Back to map, the cranking engine will produces 10 inches of vacuum cranking. at least. and the MAP output drops down to 3v crankiing (at least) if it does, the MAP is OK. Back to map, the cranking engine will produces 10 inches of vacuum cranking. at least. and the MAP output drops down to 3v crankiing (at least) if it does, the MAP is OK.

that weaker spark is a low battery, use the shop charger to keep it fully charged, or you will weak spark. The ASD kills spark , it kills spark for any time the PCM suspects weak or no spark ,preventing fuel fires. or hydralocking. that weaker spark is a low battery, use the shop charger to keep it fully charged, or you will weak spark. The ASD kills spark , it kills spark for any time the PCM suspects weak or no spark ,preventing fuel fires. or hydralocking.

have you tried running the engine on test fuel>? spray can? why not do that.? what i do (after all its flooding) is I disconnec the fuel pump then try to run the engine on test fuel , if it dont run on test fuel, then fix THAT first. (hint, the map is useless , in this tests, only takes good spark and good engine to run on test fuel) have you tried running the engine on test fuel>? spray can? why not do that.? what i do (after all its flooding) is I disconnec the fuel pump then try to run the engine on test fuel , if it dont run on test fuel, then fix THAT first. (hint, the map is useless , in this tests, only takes good spark and good engine to run on test fuel)

maybe we start at ground zero, day 1, no start? and that is , engine compression at spec, , then ASD ok. then spark is ok. and runs on test fuel? then whan that works we proceed to fueling . in that order, or we look like a dog chasing tail. fuel can not burn with bad spark or bad engines. fueling rates are LAST on the list ( as is MAP) maybe we start at ground zero, day 1, no start? and that is , engine compression at spec, , then ASD ok. then spark is ok. and runs on test fuel? then whan that works we proceed to fueling . in that order, or we look like a dog chasing tail. fuel can not burn with bad spark or bad engines. fueling rates are LAST on the list ( as is MAP)

let me see if i can find you a short cut to this. step. let me see if i can find you a short cut to this. step.

the fuel pump kill is tricky, on jeeps, first off there are 2 fuse 24s, silly huh? one is PDC other is in Cab JB. junction box. the pump runs off engine bay PDC fuse 24. the problem , is that some newer jeeps, kill spark if you pull the fuelpump relay, in fact some PCMs kill spark 2 ways, if the fuel pump relay fails in 2 ways, missing or out put dead. so.... we must dance with the fat crazy jeep engineer. no problem. pull fuse 24 in PDC. pump is now dead. the relay and 24 are in same PDC box. pull 24 and crank the motor dry, (make sure spark is good in this mode) now when engine not flooded, (it can not, pump dead, and is my goal) you then introduce test fuel . (spray 3 seconds, ) and crank. the engine must run, verroommmmmmmm 3 seconds and die. the fuel pump kill is tricky, on jeeps, first off there are 2 fuse 24s, silly huh? one is PDC other is in Cab JB. junction box. the pump runs off engine bay PDC fuse 24. the problem , is that some newer jeeps, kill spark if you pull the fuelpump relay, in fact some PCMs kill spark 2 ways, if the fuel pump relay fails in 2 ways, missing or out put dead. so.... we must dance with the fat crazy jeep engineer. no problem. pull fuse 24 in PDC. pump is now dead. the relay and 24 are in same PDC box. pull 24 and crank the motor dry, (make sure spark is good in this mode) now when engine not flooded, (it can not, pump dead, and is my goal) you then introduce test fuel . (spray 3 seconds, ) and crank. the engine must run, verroommmmmmmm 3 seconds and die.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pla... http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=HhXwVhYfPm8#t=141s

any gas engine car can be run on test fuel, with the gas tank dry, bone dry, like the above video, or the fuel pump disconnected. all engines. this video is worst case my next video shows Mr. Scotty doing it like all mechs do. any gas engine car can be run on test fuel, with the gas tank dry, bone dry, like the above video, or the fuel pump disconnected. all engines. this video is worst case my next video shows Mr. Scotty doing it like all mechs do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8F... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

this simple tests proves to you, the engine is good, (viable) and that spark is good, you can hear run, then stall but sounds NORMAL and perfect. once we get past this, we attach fueling LAST ! this simple tests proves to you, the engine is good, (viable) and that spark is good, you can hear run, then stall but sounds NORMAL and perfect. once we get past this, we attach fueling LAST !

he pulled the IAT sensor off the main intake pipe. to spray fuel he pulled the IAT sensor off the main intake pipe. to spray fuel

no smoking please. no smoking please.

keep and open mind, and do the tests in the correect order and you will save a fortune not guessing on parts. there is a test for each failure path. keep and open mind, and do the tests in the correect order and you will save a fortune not guessing on parts. there is a test for each failure path.

edit, attach = attack. edit, attach = attack.

please do ask lots of questions, we are pulling for you and car. for sure 100% and all the way to the end. Don't be shy , some problems can be hard, like flat cam lobe. (id not wish that on anyone) please do ask lots of questions, we are pulling for you and car. for sure 100% and all the way to the end. Don't be shy , some problems can be hard, like flat cam lobe. (id not wish that on anyone)

hey its me again,just checked map sensor with jeep running,have 5vdc at pin 1,have o vdc at pin 2,have 4.79 when idling,and 3.47 when giving throttle,then it starts going wacky,1sensor brand new other sensor used,both doing same,when jeep running,it runs rich and fouls plugs,when i checked spark,skark is good but as i contiue to crank it gets week, un hooked battery ground,and key imoblizer like said too ,and tryed other key reattached no difference. when checking codes fromm switch check engine light doesn't blinkand only code that appears is po700 for tranny hey its me again,just checked map sensor with jeep running,have 5vdc at pin 1,have o vdc at pin 2,have 4.79 when idling,and 3.47 when giving throttle,then it starts going wacky,1sensor brand new other sensor used,both doing same,when jeep running,it runs rich and fouls plugs,when i checked spark,skark is good but as i contiue to crank it gets week, un hooked battery ground,and key imoblizer like said too ,and tryed other key reattached no difference. when checking codes fromm switch check engine light doesn't blinkand only code that appears is po700 for tranny

i do have lifter taping on # 2 cylinder but goes away,checked cam lobe doesn't appear to be any different from others, could it be possible crank shaft sensor could be the problem i do have lifter taping on # 2 cylinder but goes away,checked cam lobe doesn't appear to be any different from others, could it be possible crank shaft sensor could be the problem

i know u said do fuel tests,and i will, u stated good spark good battery, i have 12.43 and good charing,when i road test misses real bad at idle not as bad when driving but not much power it loads up i know u said do fuel tests,and i will, u stated good spark good battery, i have 12.43 and good charing,when i road test misses real bad at idle not as bad when driving but not much power it loads up

12.43 is bad, totally, ever seen an SOC table, if not in alaska , here is the table. 12.43 is 75% charge , 12.63 is 100% , so that is ok, but its not charged. unless ambient temps are well below 0 degrees F. -20C. , the scan tool reports even ONE misfire from 10 , of the CKP sensor, (crank) the PCM is real smar there, i trust it. let it tell you when it is bad. and for sure looking on the pending screen, of the OBD2 scan too. you do have one right? 12.43 is bad, totally, ever seen an SOC table, if not in alaska , here is the table. 12.43 is 75% charge , 12.63 is 100% , so that is ok, but its not charged. unless ambient temps are well below 0 degrees F. -20C. , the scan tool reports even ONE misfire from 10 , of the CKP sensor, (crank) the PCM is real smar there, i trust it. let it tell you when it is bad. and for sure looking on the pending screen, of the OBD2 scan too. you do have one right?

loads up. on all cylinders or just one. (read spark tips for great clues, its old school but works 100%) loads up. on all cylinders or just one. (read spark tips for great clues, its old school but works 100%)

this forum does not show all post. what a shame, and i cant post your comments then comment. pain 2. ,have 5vdc at pin 1,have o vdc at pin 2,have 4.79 when idling,and 3.47 when giving throttle,then it starts going wacky,1sensor brand new other sensor used,both doing same,when jeep running,it runs rich and fouls plugs,when i checked spark,skark is good but as i contiue to crank it gets week, un hooked battery ground,and key imoblizer like said too ,and tryed other key reattached no difference. when checking codes fromm switch check engine light doesn't blinkand only code that appears is po700 for tranny this forum does not show all post. what a shame, and i cant post your comments then comment. pain 2. ,have 5vdc at pin 1,have o vdc at pin 2,have 4.79 when idling,and 3.47 when giving throttle,then it starts going wacky,1sensor brand new other sensor used,both doing same,when jeep running,it runs rich and fouls plugs,when i checked spark,skark is good but as i contiue to crank it gets week, un hooked battery ground,and key imoblizer like said too ,and tryed other key reattached no difference. when checking codes fromm switch check engine light doesn't blinkand only code that appears is po700 for tranny

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh3Z-F6KG... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh3Z-F6KGkI&feature=uploademail

see duane do vacuum. i can send you the paper , next. see duane do vacuum. i can send you the paper , next.

in a shop,. we check compression, then vacuum if the vacuum is low on a hot 800 rpm engine we work that, (this is called Basics) we then check the vacuum for fluttering, (many cause but valves bad is most) in a shop,. we check compression, then vacuum if the vacuum is low on a hot 800 rpm engine we work that, (this is called Basics) we then check the vacuum for fluttering, (many cause but valves bad is most)

ill try this way, pin 1. your idle voltage wrong, do you have a vacuum gauge, attach it to the plenum , do you have 20 inches of vacuum at idle, your MAP SAY NO YOU DON"T ,pin to should read 1.5v at idle for the huge VACUUM, find out why. its NOT POWER or ground, id use a gage. vacuum most not bounce either. or the MAP will go nuts and the PCM 10x worse. That enigne pulls a steady hard vacuum at idle about 20inches, and tad less on very old tired engine, at 800 rpm, not 400. sure it will run rich 4v at idle tells the ECU the ENGINE IS WIDE OPEN THROTTLE ! that is DEAD WRONG, it is at IDLE with the butterfly throttle dead closed, and only ISC air supply, sure the spark gets weak, the starter sucks 200 Plus amps and weakens any battery fast. the ECU tries to help here, it uses a longer dwell time with low battery but its not 100% effective, its only help. this battery weak is a side show. very normal for engines that dont start or stall over and over. btw 2 the ASD drops if the crank sensor messes up. Keep in mind the MAP read the total vacuum all a cylinder sucking air. all at once, so if you burn an inake valve and vacuum goes low , the ECU adds fuel. ever see the paper that comes with all vacuum gages. telling you , the good , bad and the ugly? ill try this way, pin 1. your idle voltage wrong, do you have a vacuum gauge, attach it to the plenum , do you have 20 inches of vacuum at idle, your MAP SAY NO YOU DON"T ,pin to should read 1.5v at idle for the huge VACUUM, find out why. its NOT POWER or ground, id use a gage. vacuum most not bounce either. or the MAP will go nuts and the PCM 10x worse. That enigne pulls a steady hard vacuum at idle about 20inches, and tad less on very old tired engine, at 800 rpm, not 400. sure it will run rich 4v at idle tells the ECU the ENGINE IS WIDE OPEN THROTTLE ! that is DEAD WRONG, it is at IDLE with the butterfly throttle dead closed, and only ISC air supply, sure the spark gets weak, the starter sucks 200 Plus amps and weakens any battery fast. the ECU tries to help here, it uses a longer dwell time with low battery but its not 100% effective, its only help. this battery weak is a side show. very normal for engines that dont start or stall over and over. btw 2 the ASD drops if the crank sensor messes up. Keep in mind the MAP read the total vacuum all a cylinder sucking air. all at once, so if you burn an inake valve and vacuum goes low , the ECU adds fuel. ever see the paper that comes with all vacuum gages. telling you , the good , bad and the ugly?

watch Duane gauge carefully , that is a good engine. yours may not be, the PCM can not run engine that are bad, only weak and good. Not engines with extreme low vacuum or bouncing. leak valve, sticking valves, broken valve springs, jammed lifter. lots of things but all are bad valves in one way or other. (parts) watch Duane gauge carefully , that is a good engine. yours may not be, the PCM can not run engine that are bad, only weak and good. Not engines with extreme low vacuum or bouncing. leak valve, sticking valves, broken valve springs, jammed lifter. lots of things but all are bad valves in one way or other. (parts)

video 2 video 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrnzD7Pgo... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrnzD7PgoHI&NR=1

here is the Paper most gauges come with, even the junky harbor fright $20 gage. here is the Paper most gauges come with, even the junky harbor fright $20 gage.

http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/vacuumtes... http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/vacuumtesting.pdf

the videos are way better, , this is first. part of basics, under good engine and tests to prove it it. (then spark then fueling) for all I know you have this massive air leak some where in the plenum. the videos are way better, , this is first. part of basics, under good engine and tests to prove it it. (then spark then fueling) for all I know you have this massive air leak some where in the plenum.

for all I know, the MAP is telling the truth, both of them. in fact , id believe them. and use a real gauge. for all I know, the MAP is telling the truth, both of them. in fact , id believe them. and use a real gauge.

if you had a real scan tool , you can plot the MAP output, and would see, its wrong, or see it going nuts. because vacuum is bouncing. the plot of the map would look like a kid on a pogostick. if you had a real scan tool , you can plot the MAP output, and would see, its wrong, or see it going nuts. because vacuum is bouncing. the plot of the map would look like a kid on a pogostick.

your DC meter wil not show that. it will average that bouncing output pin and fool you . anyone. your DC meter wil not show that. it will average that bouncing output pin and fool you . anyone.

whats nice about Duanes video is he actually breaks a valve to show what it looks like. best of best there. whats nice about Duanes video is he actually breaks a valve to show what it looks like. best of best there.