Redline upon startup

check the accelarator connections and also goto a regular maintanence checkup and also check the crankshaft and wheel to crankshaft connection

First I would check your oil level in your engine

Check fuel pump relay.
Check fuel pump control cirucuit.
Check fuel pump/

sure, rolling in gear you mean. (same effect as push starting a car with M/T) what speed did it restart, 5mph or 50 or 85mph.?)
what transmission. A/T or M/T? BEG ERROR there !

shut down,?
you mean stalls,
and engine can do 3 things
run too slow (way below 800RPM idle , illegal idle speeds)
stalls (rpm goes to zero or you find zero power from the engine )
if you stop the car, and the engine stalls that is an engine stall.

or run perfectly.

does your model have a tachometer to you can see RPM?
and if idle controls work,
not posting the trans type, (non body does here) makes answers near impossible. infact most will just ignore you posts.

with a M?T car the engine immediately returns (hot ) to 800rpm
and is regulated very closely by the EFI brain (PCM)
if not you are seeing IDLE control failure.
with and A/T there is no MT clutch and when you stop
the autoclutch drags (wastes fuel like mad) and puts a huge load
on the engine, stopped say at a red light. the idle controls
on A/t are greatly taxed here.
so RPM can drop real low. fail. or stall. below 800
a stall happens at about 400 RPM.
the M/T can at any time be restarted on the fly (moving)
but just dumping the clutch. or just waiting as you coast in gear.
this is how push starting any M/T car works.
but on an A/T car , on the fly restarts take huge speeds.
and only works on A/T that have 2 oil pumps.
the A/T with no rear pump , the A/T can not be push starter
or coast restarted, if the front pump is dead(engine stalled)
im not looking up your tranny spec. because you never stated, it.


my engine stalls. (not tranny slip)
1: bad 12vdc power to any EFI system component.
2: never ever tuned up per the free operators guide in glove box.
3: lost engine compression. 1 or all cylinders.
4: lost spark. (or timed wrong, early cars have distributors)
5: bad fueling. too much or too little

when the engine runs , does the MIL, CEL glow running
btw the CEL also glows, at all stalls. the lamp only means.
I HAVE ELECT power, now.... only.

When it stalls out, remove both fuel filters and drain them into a measuring can. Take measuring can and see if contents fill even 1 filter. Then you will know if the filters are running dry and the engine is fuel starved.
It kinda sounds like you are losing fuel draw. As RPM climbs, the draw can not keep up above idle. Could be that fuel pump is playing out.
Other consideration is that problems are in high gear where RPM drops after advancing through gear range. Could be that there is a problem with the Crankshaft counter failing to Cue enough fuel for a load at Low RPM.
Think that experimenting with Downshifting or disengaging Overdrive when engine bogs, may provide clue.
Also check if engine has EGR, some only work in top gear, and as Diesels have Vacuum pumps, a failure could create stalling if EGR leaks.

Check coolant level, and possibly replace thermostat. When a thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, coolant does not circulate thru motor. Gauge stays midrange when driving, because motor is being cooled by air and or the fan. If car seems to operate completely normal, then the gauge is faulty.

Transmission will never hold the engine back if it is going through the gears properly.If it gets into high gear, eventually the engine will reach "redline" if you stay into it long enough. ("redline" for any engine is the point at which it cannot run any faster without harming itself.) DO NOT confuse that with proper shift points which should happen just before you reach max torque which happens way before you reach "redline" at which point you are way past the torque peak of the engine, and making no usable torque or horsepower. An example of this is a race engine with a max rpm limit of 10,000rpm.("redline") Depending upon the torque curve (determined by compression, stroke and type of cam grind) you would likely be shifting gears at about 7500 to 8500RPM not at 10,000.
Therefore, your shift points are like climbing a ladder. you get just so high and though there are more steps, you will fall off if you go there. Each time you shift, you are putting the rpms back into the usable power band, till you reach the next step, then start over again. If your trans shifts early the engine will lug and labor. shifting too late and it will quickly reach "redline" and self destruct or go "flat". In a conversion, you need to make sure that the electronics that control shift points are working within the usable torque range.
OR install a manual valve body and shifter and control it like a stick shift car, using your brain as the computer and a tach to tell you where you are.

Don't have a good answer to your problem but the items I'd change would be the coolant temp sensor and the manifold air temp sensor if yours has one. Both will influence the condition you have posted. Also, the rpm's you noted are on the high side of safe on normal cold starts but because in extreme cold the engine oil takes a while to get where it needs to be, I'd consider using a good synthetic. It flows easier and stays on parts without draining off, giving a bit more protection.

Check engine codes.
If it comes up as a Crankshaft sensor... Replace it.
These are the exact symptoms

i have a 1992 isuzu rodeo its 12 deg. out -5 with wind chill truck would not start today played with batt.termanal and started went 1 mile or less to bank and stalled turns over fast but will not restart went back 5 hours later started right up got back home less 1 mile stalled in drive way and wont start.........help