Yeah, I knew I had a weak starter to begin with and the car would usually stall and I would have to turn the key again but recently when I would go to start the car, it would stall like usual and on the next key turn, when I actually got it to start I smelt a burning smoke coming from the hood. Last night when I went to start the car, it wouldn't make any noise at all and the engine didn't even rev up. The things that did changed was that all the lights on the car (dashboard, door lights) would light up slightly brighter than usual and I actually saw a white smoke come out of the hood where the starter was located and it smelled like something was burning.I can't move my car and I don't think I should attempt to start it again before this smoking problem is identified. My stepdad says it has something to do with the Crank RLY box located in the starter box. Any help given is very much appreciated.
There are very complex electronics on your vehicle , you people have no ideal what all is involved in starting your vehicle .It's all computer controlled , the PCM - engine computer has to see electrical inputs from different thing's before it will energize the starter crank relay located in the under hood fuse box .
Circuit Description
Moving the ignition switch to the start position sends a 12 volt signal through the PCM (CRANK) fuse in the Junction Block - Left I/P to the PCM to notify the PCM that a crank status has been requested. 12 volts is fed through the ABS/PCM fuse in the Junction Block - Left I/P to the coil side of the CRANK RLY . The PCM grounds this circuit when all parameters are met for starting the engine. This closes the CRANK RLY allowing Battery Positive voltage through Fusible Link and through the switch side of the CRANK relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid. Ground is found through the engine block.
The PCM has to see correct enable message from the theft- deterrent module an it also has to see a voltage signal through the transmission range sensor , this shows that the vehicle is in park or neutral . Video's on youtube testing relay's . VEHICLE RELAYS Testing from the relay base Jumping pin's 87 & 30 will crank the engine . 85 & 86 are the control side .
VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis
Starter Solenoid Does Not Click
2
Turn the ignition switch to the START position.
Does the engine crank?
YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
NO - Go to Step 3
3
Install a scan tool.
With a scan tool, observe the Security Lamp State parameter in the BCM Security Data list.
Turn the ignition switch to the START position.
Does the scan tool display On?
YES - Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle
NO -- Go to Step 4
4
With a scan tool, observe the Starter Relay Command parameter in the PCM data list.
Turn the ignition switch to the START position.
Does the scan tool display Yes?
YES - Go to Step 5
NO - Go to Step 13
5
With a scan tool, observe the Crank Request parameter in the PCM data list.
Turn the ignition switch to the START position.
Does the scan tool display Yes?
YES - Go to Step 21
NO - Go to Step 6
There are very specific step's to diagnosing problems like this an if you don't follow them you may never find the problem . You don't need a expensive scan tool to fix it but having one would make it a whole lot easier .
SOURCE: battery light and ABS light is on...saw smoke from hood and smelt burning
check the belt going to your alternater
Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Lack/Loss of Power
- Engine Stall
Possible causes
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted)
- Crankshaft position sensor may be faulty
- Signal plate may be damage
- Starter motor may be faulty
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery
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