The 2005 chevy colbolt has a 2.2 echo motor it stalls the temperature will go up to 220 degrees and then the whole car will shut down and stall and it will read powering down engine disabled i had a dignostic reading done to find out whats going on and all it said was internal mode sum error i changed the oil had a tune up done when the car sits for tem minutes it will start right up and go but then stall out as soon as my temperature goes up past 200

check the engine temperature sensor ?

Is the radiator fan coming on when the engine reaches 220 degrees ? ?

u may have a brake booster leaking vacum when u apply the brake its useing vacum from engine see if u can hear a hissing sound when apllying brake if so thats ur problem

you might have a short circuit in your car, or a loose cable somewhere, I don't think the car is overheating, I think that the temperature sensor (commonly screwed to the engine by a water return hose) is not working well, probably the bimetalic material is all wear out, you might consider change it.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

have the ignition module tested, that can cause what you are describing

Check your IAC motor (Idle Air Control) It could be sticking open.
Ps. Might be called Idle Speed Control motor it depends on the make and i forget what chevy calls theres.

That converter should make stalling less of an issue, not more. (stall speed is higher than stock) Make sure that you have the cam degreed in properly, that you have the timing set properly (I'd use 8-12 degrees to begin) and make sure that you have no vacuum leaks.
With a stock converter, you shouldn't use any cam with more than 220 degrees duration...With the higher stall converter, you may get a few more degrees leeway. Also, the carb is too small for the application...should have at least a 750 dbl pumper or larger on there depending largely upon the car weight, gearing and what you have as far as intake and exhaust. (header diameter, length and design)...This should have been all figured out on paper before spending a dime for parts...Biggest mistake I see is people putting "mis-matched" parts together and expecting it to work (everything needs to compliment everything else)

I had this same problem on my 2005 monte carlo, took mechanic a while to figure out it was the idle air control valve. They also replace the idle air control motor.

Given your high guage temps of 210 degrees and high ambient temperature of 100 degrees, your engine's stalling can very likely be linked to either one of these three causes: 1) vapor lock; 2) percolation; or 3) PCV malfunction. Here's a really good diagnostic article that precisely addresses this issue of yours:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Engine_System_Engine_Stalls_When_Hot.htm

Hope this helps! Brad