Abs ingages while driving slow.

SOURCE: Makes A clicking noise, when stopping; at 10-15 MPH.

Have you had the U-joints checked? They usually click when turning, especially the front ones. Hope this helps.

SOURCE: Brakes engage automatically while I am driving slowing me down and there is a burning odor.

All i can suggest is that you probably have a brake hanging up. To check and see which one it is, drive the vehicle and feel (carefully in case its real hot) to see which wheel is hotter than the others. I use a hand held electronic temperature sensor, but you can tell by feel. Rick

SOURCE: car shakes after stat up

check the battery ,check and replace wheel bearings,check replace wires and fuses.

SOURCE: rear brakes dont grab enough!

A few possibilities exist: Your rear brakes may be binding (rusted pistons)
but usually that will affect one side more than the other. More common reason is that the master cylinder is bypassing or air has gotten into the rear half of the system. (usually the pedal won't feel "right" if either happens. If the pedal feels normal I'd look at the porportioning valve. If that fails, it will not permit pressure to reach the rear brakes.
As for the e-brake, they are really not designed to lock up but depend on vehicle weight and motion to cause them to hold. In the past they were used as a "fail safe" in the brake system. presently they are more used as a "hill hold" to keep pressure off the transmission and shift linkage when the vehicle is parked on a hill.
First make sure nothing in the brake assembly is binding and preventing full engagement, and that there is no air in the system or a master cyl problem, then check the valve.

SOURCE: brake pedal hard as a

Hi sdixon!

Please read this all the way through so you get the full picture, because the last sentence is VERY important to troubleshoot your problem correctly!

The problem is usually associated with the master cylinder. The first thing to check is the vacuum booster unit- make sure it is getting vacuum and that the hose that leads to it from the engine has not come off or was torn. When you disconnect the hose from the booster unit, there should be allot of suction on the end of it. If not, find and fix the vacuum leak.

**Note- The following is much easier and safer if you can get your Jeep up on a lift so all 4 wheels are in the air. If you have a friend or family member that has access to a lift, ask them for help!

A frozen master cylinder piston will also cause your problem, but to be certain you need to eliminate each of the wheel cylinders/calipers first. You will need one other person to help check this... Jack up one wheel at a time. Make sure each wheel can spin freely (you will have to put your Jeep in neutral, so block the wheels so it ca'nt roll) Note if any wheel seems to be dragging. When the brakes are applied, you should not be able to spin the wheel at all (put allot of effort into it to make sure). A dragging wheel, and/or one that you can turn with the brakes being pressed indicates a frozen wheel cylinder piston or caliper piston (you did not specify the year of your Jeep, so I mention both to cover the rear drum brakes in older Jeeps. Example: My 2001 Grand Cherokee is rear disc, so it has calipers).
If all 4 wheels behave the same (the perfect example is that even with the brake pedal pressed down you were able to still turn each one of them) the master cylinder is bad.
Good Luck, and Thank You for using FixYa!