Front axle I relpace a new front axle on driver side but after install its started lo leak transmission fluid between the shaft and the housing what is wrong?

Some platy is normal, it is likely you have a leaking seal or the axle shaft bushing is worn out or both, that requires the transmission be removed.

The Ford fiesta auto transmission is actually a newer, more efficient transmission design, called a Dual Clutch Transmission. It is actually an automated manual transmission that gets more miles per gallon out of your gas. It does have some noise during shifting, which are the little electric motors that push in and out the "mini" clutches in the gearbox. It is actually kind of cool - even if some don't like the difference in driving characteristics of this transmission.

Anyway, if you need transmission fluid - that would be a bad sign, maybe a leaking shaft seal. If you need to replace it, make sure you replace it with Motorcraft Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid XT-11-QDC. You normally have to get this through Ford. Sorry. Isn't cheap!! It is a special type of transmission fluid, kind of amber in color (if you have someone sell you something that is red, IT IS THE WRONG FLUID!)

Start with the vehicle in NEUTRAL, positioned on a hoist (you want the car as level as possible for the most accurate reading). You can also do this by lifting the vehicle on 4 jacks to keep it level, and high enough to take off the driver-side front wheel (makes this SO much easier).

Take off the driver side wheel. Locate the plug on the side of the transmission (see image).



CLEAN the are around the plug - you don't want dirt in that transmission!

Remove the fill plug using the correct sized Allen wrench. Righty tighty, Lefty loosely.

Using a oil suction gun/ Syringe Pump, fill the transmission (actually, the trans-axle) to the correct level. Add transmission fluid until the oil runs out of the fill hole. The trans-axle is full when the oil flow from the fill port has slowed to a broken stream or dripping. Do NOT overfill the trans-axle, this causes the fluid to be forced out of the case, which can damage your seals - not a good things, so make sure the car is level, and make sure you let the excess fluid drain out.

The picture below shows you what you are trying to achieve. Note that the green is the fluid (which is actually amber in color).



Re-install the fill plug. Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft). (You will need to use a ball head hex socket so that you can put on a torque wench).

That's it!

Hope this helps!

Check the axle shaft seals where the two drive axles enter the transaxle. If leaking there the axle will have to be removed to replace the seal.
Look at the bottom pan of transaxle. If leaking from pan gasket, the pan will have to be removed and transmission drained to replace pan gasket.
There is a transaxle main shaft seal on the front of transaxle, hidden by the bellhousing that mounts to rear of engine.. If the shaft seal is leaking, fluid will be dripping from bottom of bellhousing, and when inspection cover is removed, fluid will be evident inside the bellhousing.
Check also the transmission fluid cooling lines, where the two lines exit the transaxle case, and go to front of car to an external cooler mounted in front of radiator, or going into a separate reservoir in the radiator.

the axle hold the transmission fluid in

Majority of older MONTERO' s are four wheel drives which means you have two more locations of possible Leaks, called output shaft seals. they are located ( from front of vehicle ) one on each side of transmission. left and right side. just follow the C.V. Joint shafts to where they enter transmission . in order to replace seals removal of C.V. SHAFTS is REQUIRED . verify this is where leaks starts at by cleaning area with spray degreaser and wiping area dry. .. secure vehicle with emergency BRAKE ON.. ALSO CHOCK WHEELS TO PREVENT VEHICLE FROM ACCIDENTALLY MOVING. SAFETY IS A PRIORITY !!! ALLOW ENGINE TO IDLE IN PARK. you should be able to view trans where shafts are installed and check for seepage. if you have small leak at idle and no motion imagine when your car is in motion, it probably rains fluid.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_9ddabbbc483e2add

CHECK UNDER VECHICLE IF TRANSMISSION FLUID UNDER TRANSMISSION MORE LIKELY PAN GASKET LEAKING FLUID.IF FLUID HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED THE PAN GASKET GET HARD LEAKS FLUID.THATS IF YOU HAVE SLOW LEAK.IF YOU LOSING LOTS OF TRANSMISSION FLUID ITS .LEAKING AT TORQUE CONVERTER SHAFT SEAL.LEAKING AT COOLER LINES.CHECK COOLER LINES FROM RADIATOR TO UNDER CAR WHERE COOLER LINES GOES TO TRANSMISSION. AND CHECK LEAKS AT FRONT DRIVE SHAFT AXLES SEALS

There should be a plug on the axle housing near where the front drive shaft meets front axle I think on drivers side inline with drive shaft.Remove plug,Fluid should be at bottom of hole.

I searched under 1997 lincoln continental and found this: Driveshaft and U-Joints
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Town Car and Mark VII-VIII Fig. 1: The bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange require a 12mm, 12 point wrench or socket to loosen them
Fig. 2: Remove the bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange
Fig. 3: Separate the driveshaft from the axle flange and . . .
Fig. 4: . . . disengage the driveshaft from the transmission output shaft
Fig. 5: Insert a plug onto the splines of the transmission output shaft to prevent fluid from leaking out

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Mark the position of the driveshaft yoke on the axle companion flange so they can be reassembled in the same way to maintain balance.
3. Remove the flange bolts and disconnect the driveshaft from the axle companion flange.
4. Allow the rear of the driveshaft to drop down slightly.
5. Pull the driveshaft and slip yoke rearward until the yoke just clears the transmission extension housing seal. Mark the position of the slip yoke in relation to the transmission output shaft, then remove the driveshaft.
6. Plug the transmission to prevent fluid leakage. To install:
   
7. Lubricate the yoke splines with suitable grease.
8. Remove the plug from the transmission and inspect the extension housing seal; replace if necessary.
9. Align the slip yoke and output shaft with the marks made at removal and install the yoke into the transmission extension housing. Be careful not to bottom the slip yoke hard against the transmission seal.
10. Rotate the axle flange, as necessary, to align the marks made during removal.
11. Install the driveshaft yoke to the axle flange. Install the bolts and tighten to 71–95 ft. lbs. (95–130 Nm).
12. Lower the vehicle.

Your right axle-shaft (intermediate-shaft) appears to be the problem here. (The right axle-shaft has a bearing in it that gets bad periodcally).
Remove the wheel cover.
Open up the axle nut side with a flat-end screw driver.
Loosen the front axle nut with the 32mm socket.
Remove the front wheel.
Jack up the car and support it on jack-stands.
Remove the brake calipers and tie it up to the strut-spring.
(Check your engine mount, transmission mount)
Remove the cotter-pin from the tie-rod nut.
Loosen and remove the tie-rod nut.
Pry off the balljoints out of the steering-knuckle(watch-out for the black rubber boot on the tie-rod).
Loosen and remove the strut bolts.
Push out the strut from the steering-knuckle.
Remove the bolts that's holding the bearing on the middle of the shaft-3pieces in all.
Use a large pry-bar to pry off the axle-shaft from its immediate end, or transmission case and flange.
Take out the axle-shaft.
Plug off the axle-shaft hole with a rag to stop oil flow.
Replace the axle shaft with a new one, and tighten the axle-shaft bolts bolts starting with the left bolt first, then the right bolt-second, and the upper bolt-third.
Reverse removal of these steps for installation.
When done: Add the required quantity of fluid/gear-oil to the gear-box to compensate for lost fluid/gear-oil.

do you mean the drive shaft. if so you just need a good lever bar to prise the drive shaft out of the transmission.if you mean you want the drive shaft out of the front wheel hub then you may need a good pller to femove it as it can be very tight on the splines