Short term fuel trim at negative 20 percent.coolant temperature sensor reading normal-203 degree F.at idle,mass air flow meter reading 4 g/s and at 2500 rpm reads 18 g/s.condition kept vehicle to miss only on #3 cylinder.dist cap,rotor,plugs,ignition wire has been replaced.fuel pressure reading normal and compression is normal 180-190 psi for all cylinders
Sounds like the #3 injector is leaking and allowing to much fuel to pass. This causes it to run rich which the computer is trying to correct. I would try running Berrymans or Seafoam injector cleaner in the gas. If that doesn't work, remove the injector and get it ultrasound cleaned or replaced.
Do a cylinder leak down test,for bad valves on #3
or head gasket,misfires for a reason
(Cam Worn ?)
Have to get rid of any misfires
If your taking out 20% your correcting for a rich condition,maybe
Some injector issues,old,need to be sent away for cleaning & flow
testing or replaced?
Drive it for 30 miles & add short & long term & see what you get
Exhaust Converter any good ?
SOURCE: car does not start in cold weather
check your main relay it may be in default it is the signal that sends the gas pump is located below the driver side dash give me the new
SOURCE: Car Overheats after 12 to 15 minutes of running. Temperature decreaes when I accelerate.
your fan is the problem...it's not turning fast enough to cool the engine off. I need more info on what type of fan you have....elec fan or a clutch fan?
SOURCE: How to replace distributer cap and rotor button on
Locate the distributer cap. Mark all your spark plug wires with some tape and number system so they go back in the same position (on the new cap). Remove the spark plug wires from the old cap (after marking them) and lay them to the side. Remove the 2 Torx or Phillips screws from the cap. Lift the cap up and off. The rotor will be directly under the cap. Lift it up and off. This may take a little rocking motion while pulling on it to get it off. Align the new rotor on the shaft and push it on firmly. Place the new cap on and install the 2 screws removed earlier. Install the plug wires on the cap in the order they come off. Ensure the wires are pushed in firmly.
SOURCE: 96 acura tl 2.5 rough idle
REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR REPLACE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES IF NOT BEEN CHANGED IN LONG PERIOD OF TIME.CHECK IGNITION TIMING.CHANGE AIR FILTER CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS.IF ENGINE STILL MISFIRE IGNITION COIL IS WEAK OR YOU HAVE LOW CYLINDER COMPRESSION.
Never seen one of these cars but if in doubt ask a local mechanic to have a look for you ,in the heater hose feed to the heater could be a electric solonoid type switch that opens the valve inside the water pipe housing that the solonoid sits on and it could somehting wrong here like either the solonoid isnt operating or no power being sent to it from the climatic control computer or the plunger inside the housing is stuck ,use a mechanic recomended by a friend or relative to check the type of system ,The parts are or can be expensive and i have removed the automatic valve and fitted a tap with a manual cable from a bicycle gear change before now but i cannot recommend this as although it works other people who answer questions on here are altogether happy with some of my cowboy jobs ,but i used to be a fleet fitter with lots of own company vehicles not a dealer fitter and the owner was a refugee from a concentration camp in poland and he didnt like spending money ,an under statement to say the least
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If the value is not more than -20 percent, inspect for the following:
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With the engine idling and the transmission in the Park or Neutral position, observe the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor parameter. The MAP sensor parameter should be between 19-42 kPa.
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If the MAP sensor parameter is not between 19-42 kPa, refer to DTC P0106 .
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With the engine idling, observe the mass air flow (MAF) sensor parameter. The MAF sensor parameter should be within 2-6 g/s at idle.
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If the MAF sensor parameter is not within 2-6 g/s at idle, refer to DTC P0101 or P1101 or DTC P0102 or P0103 .
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Vacuum hoses for splits, kinks, and improper connections
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The air intake duct for being collapsed or restricted
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The air filter for being dirty or restricted
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Objects blocking the throttle body
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Excessive fuel in the crankcase due to leaking fuel injectors
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The evaporative emissions control system for improper operation
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Excessive fuel pressure
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Malfunctioning fuel injectors
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Fuel contamination
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The HO2S for improper installation and for electrical wires or connectors that may have contacted the exhaust system
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The HO2S signal circuit shorted to voltage
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Khang- I have the same problem with my 1996 2.5TL. Short term fuel reads -20, long term reads 0.0. O2 sensor reads high all the time except during decelleration when short term fuel,goes momentarily to 0. And then back to -20.
Front O2 sensor reads .9 to .98 volts except durin decel then to drops back to 0.2.
How did you fix your car? I ve done wires,plugs,cap, MAF sensor, coolant empt sensor.
HELP?
need to check you injectors...you could have leaking injectors or dirty...don't know when you
replace you spark plugs...but you can look and see if they are all burning the same.
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