No power to ems relay,ignition amplifier,or ignition coil . fully charged battery with 12.66 volts coming out of ignition on relay

Year make and model ?
You should have two hot circuits to the relay. One is for the pump and the other is for the coil of the relay. Usually power comes from the key switch.

if the car won`t turn over then it could be a starter problem if the battery is as you say fully charged. check voltages at the starter. it could be a bad connection or starter relay.

Let's see if I can explain it. Pretty simple start circuit, but starting issues are very common to Hondas and Toyotas of the '80's and early'90's. Lots of guys used to rewire their start circuits with new wiring and relays from ignition switch to the starter solenoid just to stop those no starts.
From the ignition switch is the black/white start wire, it is hot only in start, goes direct to the "starter cut relay"- a 4 pole starter relay, the black/ white wire (black with a white stripe) is both the power feed and the coil power to the relay. Before the wire enters the relay it is spliced. one wire goes to power feed at relay, other wire goes to coil side of relay. Here's where the clutch switch comes in: the clutch switch acts as the ground for the relay's coil side. Okay, you turn key to start, power goes to the relay on both the power side and the coil side. When clutch is depressed, it grounds the coil side of relay, this energizes the relay, so power goes out of relay on the power side, as a black/red wire...and goes direct to the starter solenoid. Somewhere before it reaches the solenoid, it turns back into a black/white wire. But nothing else is in a wiring diagram for your start circuit. Buy a can of CRC electronic cleaner. Spray all connectors in the start circuit. Pull off the solenoid wire at starter-that connector. Also the starter relay , pull it out and clean the relay terminals where it plugs in. Get all clean connections in the circuit. If no help, swap in a different relay. If still no help, get a voltmeter (or a test light), when the starter doesn't want to work, check for power at the starter solenoid with key held in start, and clutch depressed. If power there, the solenoid is the problem. If no power, work back to the relay. Pull relay out. With key held in start, two terminals for the relay should have power-the coil plus side, and the power feed from the ignition switch. If both have power, may be the clutch switch not grounding the relays coil side. If no power to relay, check the start wire out of the ignition switch.
Need a wiring diagram? This site is awesome-free wir. diagrams and TSB's for every make and model:

Check battery voltage, should read 12.5 volts or more. Just because it its new, doesn't mean it is charged to full voltage. If battery is fully charged, and connections are good, then I would look at the starter relay or starter motor.

Check battery must fully charged, check starter fuse and relay Check 12 volt wire from ignition switch to starter relay in the fuse box ,then check 12 volt wire from starter relay to starter motor solenoid if if it's everything is ok then change the starter.

Vehicle is not indicated. Some cars have Relays for the ignition circuit. If you can reach the wiring for the coils, you should check for power to the coil bundles or paks. If the coil is receiving power then the trigger to deliver the amplified charge is not working.

You can get free wiring diagrams by registering your vehicle on Autozone.com. Then go down to the Help sections and work through some of the sub-headings. Find the Relay for the Ignition and change it.

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check see if power going to ignition coil primary terminal, if not check ignition coil fuse.if power going to ignition coil primary terminal, your coils could be bad or you have ignition module fault or crankshaft position sensor and pcm fault,have vechicle code scanned many things will cause no spark conditions, make sure battery fully charged or in good shape you need good 12.6 volts from battery, for pcm and ignition to work properly.

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)

If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.


.If the battery iS more than 5yrs old OR COMMING CLOSE TO IT DEPENDING ON ITS CURRENT CONDITION you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.

So you have no crank no start correct?
Battery must be fully charged ( three day charge) or new.Make sure battery cables are clean and tight.
Use meter and make sure B+ making it to starter .
If B+ not at starter then check cable to starter and neutral safety switch and ignition switch.

This is for crank no start

B+ goes from battery to Ignition switch to coil to switching device( ignition module) to plug.
use a volt meter and find out where B+ stops.