07 Honda CR-V, Dash lights out, speedo inop, warning lights staying on, car runs and drives with no other problems.

their are 7 recalls on the 07 none are for an electrical problem with lighting system
http://www.pontiacproblems.com/recalls/G5/2007 and the following tsb from march 2010 is for flickering lights

• TSB #PIC-5073B NHTSA ID #10034409
  • Date Announced: MARCH 01 2010
  • Additional Info: How to Fix
  Summary: CHEVROLET/PONTIAC: VARIOUS ELECTRICAL CONCERNS. SIR LIGHT, IP LIGHTS FLICKER/INOPERATIVE, PARKING LAMPS FLICKER/INOPERATIVE, TAIL LAMP DIM/INOPERATIVE, TRUNK OPEN LIGHT, RADIO INOPERATIVE DOOR LOCK INOPERATIVE, NO START, NO CRANK. POSSIB
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ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING

• TSB #PI-0817 NHTSA ID #10047261
  • Date Announced: SEPTEMBER 01 2012
  • Additional Info: How to Fix
  Summary: CHEVROLET/PONTIAC/SATURN: ENGINE FAILS TO START AFTER ENGINE CRANKS DUE TO FUEL PUMP WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR NEEDS REPLACING, WITHOUT REPLACING FUEL PUMP COVER ASSEMBLY (FUEL PUMP FLANGE). MODEL 2007-2010 COBALT, G5, ION. *PE
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ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:FUSES AND CIRCUIT BREAKERS

• TSB #PIC-4578 NHTSA ID #10022806
  • Date Announced: JUNE 01 2011
  • Additional Info: How to Fix
  Summary: EPS/STR WHEEL CONTROL FUSE (#19) OPEN. *KB UPDATED 10/04/07. *NJ UPDATED 8/7/09. *PE UPDATED 8/1/11. *PE
  
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• TSB #PIC3385 NHTSA ID #10020916
  • Date Announced: FEBRUARY 01 2008
  • Additional Info: How to Fix
  Summary: REPEATED PARK LPS FUSE OPEN. *KB (ADDITIONAL INFORMATION) UPDATED 4/1/08. *NJ
  

2007 Pontiac G5 Recalls CarComplaints com

What lights are not working ? The instrument cluster illumination is inoperative or all the lights ,radio , heater control head, all the switches that would be back lighted.

The climate control panel illumination is inoperative , The passenger door lock control switch illumination is inoperative. Could need new dimmer switch , new instrument cluster. When installing a new instrument cluster, it is necessary to upload the module configuration to the scan tool. Following installation of the new instrument cluster, download the module configuration from the scan tool into the new instrument cluster. Refer to Section 418-01 .

it would have to go onto a computer but sounds like an abs sensor

This is pretty common on Hondas. It happens when a stereo or something else is installed that is not from the factory. Or it could just be that they are a common problem. Even a fuse problem So check the fuses first.
If you take it to a mechanic or any other place of repair, they may replace the small computer to the driver's side of the vehicle under the dash. Which is what IS the problem.
But , you don't have to do that if you are handy with some tools and a little common sense. You can bypass the wires that turn on the light inside the dashboard.

You have to take off the instrument cluster /dashboard panel. They are usually installed with a few screws and /clips. Just make sure you don't have your lights or car on . Everything has to be off. you don't want to burn out anything.

After removing the instrument cluster , on the other side of the dials and meters you see when you flip the dash cluster over, you will see some wires that run down the middle and connect to some green plugs on both sides.
You want to check to see if your lights come on by using a paperclip or small , stiff wire. You insert that wire in the plug where you see a solid RED wire (the plug is to your left side sitting in the car). Be careful not to damage anything . Just insert it right beside the red wire (at the end on the plug also to your left, usually.) The other end of the paperclip you insert in a WHITE and RED wire which you have to look for.

After you insert both sides of the paperclip to their proper wires, you straighten up the panel and turn your light switch on . The lights should go on. If they do . You just fixed your problem......If they don't, check that nothing came loose.

If they do come on , you turn off your lights and you strip a piece of both wires that you bypassed and connect them together with another piece of wire. Turn on the light switch again just to make sure the light turn on. Then use a piece of tape to cover the exposed wires that you connected together.

The only thing that will happen is that your dimmer used to dim the instrument panel will not work. But other than that they should work.

rate my answer if it works and helped you.

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Check for power to the light switch. If no power, trace wiring from fuse panel to switch. If there is power, then it could be your switch that is bad.

you blew a fuse. check fuses in both fuse boxes..
ahh yes, the IP cluster lamps are dad, but not the idiot warning lights
only the parking lights in the cluster are dead. right.?
and the park-tail, running lights and dash dim lights are all the same.
my guess three is a short on the TAIL fuse, the TAIL fuse blew
and took out: park-tail, running lights and dash dim lights are all the same.
it blew. most are marked tail even thought it runs side lamps and front parking lamps... TAIL is wrong, they are parking. lamps it truth.

Hi. Thanks for your question. For issues related to brake warning lights on dash illuminated for Mercedes C180, 1996 saloon. You can visit https://www.reliable-store.com and download the entire workshop manual which includes all the information along with the diagrams for better understanding. Good day!

Bad speed sensor, cut wire, or he did not connect the speed sensor, or he installed the wrong speed sensor.....he needs to fix it even if he has to hire a better mechanic to do it.

On my 2007 Honda CR-V The DRL code appeared on the dash board. Additionally I had only one high beam (on the passenger side); both low beams were fine, but I did not have a Daytime Running Light on the drivers side. The DRL code was really misleading because the real problem was that the high beam element in the headlight bulb was burned out. Note that the daytime running light is not a seperate bulb -- it is the high beam element which is powered at a low voltage. Once I replaced the head light bulb everything worked fine and the DRL code on the dash board was gone. So if the DRL message appears what you really need to do is replace the headlight bulb (there are YouTube videos which show how to do this - but search for headlight replacement, not for DRL fix). Be careful not to touch the new bulb with you hands since premature burnout can occur from the grease off your skin. I got my bulb from Wal-Mart for $8.88 (it's a 9003/HB2 for the 2007 CR-V) -- that's a pretty cheap fix.

The wiper phenomenon you described is normal. It's a really cool feature. The car knows that you're moving so the wipers adjust to your speed.

The headlights and radio light problems you described is probably a bad battery. I didn't know about it either until I took my 07 CRV for it's 15k mile maintenance and they tested the battery. They said the battery was defective and wasn't putting out enough power so they gave me a new battery. Since it was under warranty, it didn't cost me anything.