Power door locks

SOURCE: 1996 Ford Bronco door lock actuator

These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your location with front and rear rather then left and right because it depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door. 2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be inserted. Remove screw. 3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the two switches from the trim panel. 4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw. 5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove. 6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier. Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it towards the front of the door stuck on. 7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a ****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator. 11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers, facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch. 12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper. 13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door panel. 14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00. When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock stem.
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.

SOURCE: 1997 ford explorer rear driver side door won't open

Pull the panel off starting at the top, you can just pry the window control apart, you don't need to unscrew that part. I sprayed white grease (lubriplate) all around the door latch inside there, and it unlatched easy.
After I put it back together, the knob still doesn't rise as high as the other side. I think the linkage is binding, and the connecting rod is bent. At least if the door won't unlock with the button you can do it by hand.

SOURCE: 2003 ford windstar - power locks only open drivers door

yes it is the door lock switch in the door trim panel it should pop out from the back to forward / Please rate my response thank you very much

SOURCE: 4wd not engaging

Is it a two wire actuator or a three wire actuator? The two wire ones are pretty unreliable. that is why Chevrolet converter them to the three wire. Check for power and ground on the two wire in 4wd. For the three is should have one ground wire, one wire that is hot in 4wd, and one wire that is hot in 2wd.

SOURCE: Driver side door lock seems mechanically "stuck"

there are several screws you have to remove remove the trim piece around the inside handle the panel lifts off dont pry it off or it will break the door latch usually binds and has to be replaced