Wheel locks up

I think it is time to find an accredited brake specialist . At the best with a hub it may be bad wheel bearings but I consider it a problem with the mechanics and their lack of commitment to fixing your problem

No, even a 4x4 will have only 1 wheel that will spin on each axle in this instance. It's called a floating differential. For stock vehicles with non locking differentials like you have, both cannot spin or have full power at the same time. Hard to explain on this, but picture your car making a hard right turn. Both front wheels would be spinning at different speeds because of the turn. The passenger side tire is spinning much slower than the drivers side tire, therefore if both were spinning at the same time, your tires would chirp and skip on the pavement which would eventually ruin your differential. In offroad applications, we WANT the differentials locked and turning at the same time with true 4x4. But in normal everyday vehicles, even standard stock 4x4's, only 1 tire will do the spinning per axle unless it has possitraction or full locked axle. Clear as snow?

Yes that is normal for a front wheel drive vehicle. The power is applied to the wheel on the passenger side only until a given amount of wheel speed is obtained then the drivers side will spin at the same rate. Although if you raise the front of the vehicle and spin the tires by hand in neutral you should feel equal resistance. If the driver side wheel has excessive resistance to turning the wheel bearing may be to tight..

Hi,
Yes, this is normal while in four wheel drive on pavement.
I will try and explain why.
In four wheel drive the front and rear drive axles are linked together by a chain in the transfer case and gears in both axles. This is a direct link with very little play between the front and rear axles.
When cornering a rear wheel will spin faster, or slower depending on the direction of the turn. this causes a binding in the drive line because the drive line wants all the wheels to turn at the same speed. So the wheel "skipping" going in reverse, is the drive lines way of compensating for the different speed of the wheels turning.
Never should a four wheel drive be used on dry pavement. I could cause a break in one of the drive line components. On a slippery surface , snow, mud, gravel, grass, There is enough slippage in the surface to aloow the driveline to compensate for the different speeds of tire rotation.
So do not try at highway speeds on dry pavement.
Your four wheel drive system is working just fine.
Wayne

There is a wheel speed sensor on each wheel, this is what detects if one wheel is spinning faster or slower than the others. For ABS if you are braking and the sensor detected that a wheel is moving slower than the other is will release the brake for it so it doesn't lock up, hence Anti-Lock Brakes. SInce the TCS light is also on I would bet that one of your front wheel speed sensors is either dirty or failing. A cleaning or replacing of them should fix the issue. Hope this helps!

Take the vehicle to a nearby parts store and see if they can run the code for you. most of the time its the Wheel Bearing on the front wheels of the car. The sensor is built in so you would have to replace it as an assembly. Wheel bearings and sensor related problems have always been an issue with these types of GM cars. When you get the associate to pull the Anti-Lock codes on your vehicle look to see which wheel it brings up as a fault. To further diagnose it see if you can borrow the scan tool and the associate to drive the vehicle down the road with the scan tool on the Data menu, in Anti-Lock Brakes menu. This will bring up the four wheel speed sensors as well as the transmission speed sensor. Compare the speed as you travel down the road and watch for any glitches or slower speed at one of the wheels. Dont be alarmed if the speeds are different while making a turn this is because the wheels do not travel at the same speed while turning. After you find the culprit you may replace the part as necessary.

That noise sounds to me like a Ball Joint problem. I would check to see if you have fittings to grease the front suspention.

Good luck, Allen

Replace your blower resistor, usually located on firewall under hood on passenger side, or under dash on passenger side, up under on ducting.

check the speed sensor either at the transmission or on the front wheel axle. You have to remove the front wheel , rotor until you get down to the shaft. The speed sensor is right there on the passenger side of your car.

First if the humming sound gets faster and slower as you go faster or slower yes I would say it is a wheel bearing.Second thing if you on the out side of the car rock the car side to side and hear the same noise have someone look at each sway bar link(the piece that attaches the bar to the suspension)to see for movement at each end of each link.the movment if found will let you know which one to replace.If no movment at the links check the ruber mounts that attatch the bar to the body or frame of the car for up and down movement.