I have a whining sound coming from my front end while driving and ive replaced both front wheel hub bearings and its still whiningand its on a 1994 jeep grand Cherokee larado V8 all wheel drive

A roar comes from hub bearings pick up the front with a jack n shake the tire back n forth if it has play your bearing is bad

if while in motion other bearing or you replaced the wrong one or it's a drive belt pully bearing.

Whining sounds come from diffs that have a problem in the mesh between the crown wheel and pinion If yours is not front wheel drive then the noise may be from over tightened wheel bearings or failed bearings or the abs sender touching the exciter

When you say whine does it only occur under acceleration only? If so most likely the wheel hub assembly or some will say wheel bearing but on these vehicles it is complete hub assembly. If you turn or swerve one way then the other does it go away in one direction? If so another strong indication of hub wearing out. If not, and it is a really high whine with acceleration it is also possibly the transmission. I have heard of this complaint before, it's not a sign of failure just a noise that develops due to the pressure placed on bearing under a load. First change fluid and filter for tranny after a good flushing. Replace with high quality fluid and a bottle of transmission seal restore product. Go 1000 miles, change fluid again, if noise is still there turn up radio.
Sorry but just a whine under acceleration isn't a lot to go on. But I'm willing to bet wheel hub. 9 out of ten front end whine complaints is wheel hub or bearing especially on a heavy 4x4 suv

Does the truck have a lift kit on it?
- CV Axle spacers may be needed.
Have you recently replaced the CV Shafts?
- You may have gotten an axle that was too short / too long if you got a rebuilt axle.
It might be a worn pinion bearing in the front differential. Those can get louder with more speed. Check for excessive play in the yoke.

I would also check the hub bearings on each front wheel. Its more of a growling sound than a whining sound. I have done both of mine in the last 3 years on my 2000 GMC Sierra. They run about $60 at Napa with a 1 year warranty. You will need a slide hammer.
Jack the truck up so the wheel is off the ground and shake it. If you can move it around, its bad.

a whining under the hood is usually a belt, or pump. most of the time it is the power steering pump. make sure that the power steering reservoir is full and the belts are not damaged or dry rotting.

hi from the symptoms you clearly describe this sounds like you have one of the front wheel bearings worn out hence the wheel is allowed to run out of line and so also the hub that encases the w/bearing also allows tilting of hub which will affect the abs sensor may i strongly suggest you have this checked/replaced ASAP and do not drive unnecesarily untill fixed for obviouse reasons the whining you hear is the bearing rotating dry and eventually wear and lock up/burn up locking wheel rotation ???

The shop should be able to pinpoint where its coming from. Pinion bearing will be big bucks.

There are a couple of things to cause metallic sounds when turning. First thing, is if it's a clicking sound when you turn, then you have a cv joint going bad. It's usually more prominent when moving in reverse, however it can happen just as well while moving forewards. Secondly, if it's more of a grinding or scraping noise, we have a couple of options. The sound could be coming from the brakes, if they're worn or have grit stuck in them, or it could be bad bearings in the front wheel hub. The wheel hub has a tendency to making a whining noise when driving; usually most easily heard when driving past buildings. They can also allow the tire/wheel to present the appearance of leaning when looking at it. If bad enough, it can even rub on the brake caliper, or cause the disc brake rotor to wear out the brake pads prematurely. So, to recap: Check:
CV joints, if a clicking sound brakes or wheel hub bearings if grinding or whining sound.

tie rod ends you count the number of turns exposed and run the same number of turns on the new one after you install it. You can rap the side of the rod end with a hammer to break it loose, whack it!
Wheel bearings on the front you remove the wheels, remove the center cap on the hub, remove the cotter pin, then nut and washer, hub assembley will come off. Clean the spindle of old grease, remove the bearings, drive out and replace the old bearing races in the hub, install new races (cups) pack bearings in your clean hands with correct grease, install the bearings, install the washer, nut, tighten then back off a hair until you align the cotter pin hole. Do NOT overtighten, the bearings and races will be damaged! You snug the bearings to "seat them" then back off just enough that the wheels spin freely with no side to side play with the wheels installed to the hub. In other words grab the tires at the top and bottom and see if you have any movement toward the spindle or axle. Rear bearings are done the same way.