Question about 2002 Jaguar X-Type

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Woke up found my jaguar 2002 X type (petrol) clutch pedal on floor. No signs of leakage of fluid. After pumping clutch up and down several times, clutch returns. A few mins after no clutch.

No signs of fluid leakage

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  • Jaguar Master
  • 1,141 Answers

Sounds like the concentric clutch slave cylinder is faulty/leaking, is there any sign of fluid loss from the resovoir, it uses the brake resovoir for its fluid supply, the leaked fluid is probably in the flywheel houslng, big job to change. front subframe has to be removed, if its a 2.5 or 3.0ltr transfer box also.

Posted on Mar 13, 2014

  • Terson Toranty Mar 18, 2014

    Thanks paul, seems so. I removed the master cylinder and found no signs of leakage

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4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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blustu

  • 279 Answers

SOURCE: how to change fuel pump on 2002 jaguar x-type

Full instructions are too detailed for this forum I will try and post it on http://www.bluejag.co.uk in the near future for you.

but briefly
you first need to remove the Fuel tank
then the pump


Disconnect Battery
Drain fuel tank if possible.
Remove filler cap
Remove rear seat cushion
Detach Wiring harness
Remove rear subframe
Detach Filler
Disconnect filter
Disconnect purge pipe
Disconnect evap emisions hose
Remove fuel tank support strap retaining bolts
Remove tank

then
Disconnect electrical connector
Remove Locking ring using Jaguar tool 310-072A
Remove transfer pump

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

Anonymous

  • 324 Answers

SOURCE: fuel pump relay 2002 Jaguar x-type 2.5

in the mass fuse box, under the dash, unless you have the manual you will not beable to tell wich one it is.. get a chiltons repair manual or a haynes...

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

steve_e_uk

steve morris

  • 1675 Answers

SOURCE: brake problem

hi this is air in the system if you pump them do they go hard as normal? what you will need to do is , starting from the furthest caliper away from the fluid bottle you have to bleed the air out, you can buy bleeding systems for a few bucks/pounds but you can also do it yourself, to do this, find a length of small bore clear hose/pipe, locate the bleed nipple on the caliper, find a wrench/spanner that will fit the bleed nipple, put that on first, then get your pipe/hose, and slide that over the end of the bleed nipple ( make sure the pipe/hose is a nice tight fit ) locate a small clear glass jar partly fill it with brake fluid, put the hose/pipe into the jar so the fluid covers the end ( we don't want air to go up the pipe/hose ) then get a friend to pump hard on the brake pedal till it goes hard, and when it does tell them to keep their foot hard on the pedal , you then undo the bleed nipple ( you should get some fluid come out fast) when the pedal reaches the floor ( this happens immediately if you have opened the nipple far enough, then when it has hit the floor do the bleed nipple up again before they raise the pedal keep doing this till you see no bubbles coming through the hose/pipe, repeat the operation on the next furthest away, and so on till all the air has been removed from the system, be sure to check the fluid in the reservoir regularly as this will cause air to get back into the system again if it runs to low....hope this has helped and good luck, please vote thanks

Posted on Mar 20, 2010

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1 Answer

How do i bleed the clutch


Make sure clutch master cylinder is full of fluid. Pump clutch pedal several times and hold to floor. Open bleeder screw located on slave cylinder at transmission ( air/fluid will come out ). Close bleed screw and bring clutch pedal back up to to top. repeat this procedure until only fluid comes out of the bleedscrew and the clutch pedal feels good

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then get him to pump the clutch pedal, pump it a 4 times, and hold down, while pedal is down, you crack the nipple a little & look for air in the fluid coming out,once the pedal is on the floor, do up nipple . repeat this until the pedal has good pressure. the nipple will be a small brake/ line spanner, AFE, aprox 5/16/ 3/8 etc or metric 8, 9, 10 mill,.

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There are 2 ways to bleed the clutch slave cylinder on any vehcile really. First way is to have a person in the car pump the clutch pedal several times and hold it to the floor. While the person holds the clutch pedal to the floor a second person opens the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder itself, once the air/fluid has stopped running out of the bleeder screw, tighten it again and have the first person in the car pull up on clutch pedal from the floor (because it will stick down after openening and tightening the bleeder screw) and then repeat that process until the clutch pedal feels good and hard. Make sure you fill the fluid in the clutch master resevoir each time you open and close the bleeder screw so you don't get new air coming through the system from emptying the resevoir.

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1 Answer

Clutch pedal goes to floor


Hi Stephen, I think the problem is a leakage from either the clutch master or slave cylinder. Open the hood and check the fluid level in the clutch reservoir. If it's empty my suspicion is confirmed. Look for signs of leakage first from the master cylinder, then the pipes and finally the slave cylinder. It's a good idea to replace both cylinders at the same time. To do so requires the following work. Inside the cabin the push rod connecting the pedal to the piston must be disconnected and then under the hood (bonnet) the fluid pipe disconnected followed by removal of the securing bolts. The same operation applies to the slave cylinder. When assembling always connect the pipes before securing the cylinders.Hand tighten the pipe connections, leaving just one final turn for the wrench (spanner). The pipe connectors are easily damaged by cross threading the connectors which results in leakage. Once the clutch operating system has been installed, fill the reservoir and have someone kind keep it full with dot 4 brake fluid. Open the slave cylinder bleed nipple and allow the fluid to flow into a container until the it flows without air bubbles and then close the nipple. Happy driving Regards John

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I Push my clutch down and has no resistance, i also cannot get the car in and out of gear. I drive a 1995 3000gt SL.


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Hard to shift gears from shifter. Can go to transmission and shift easily.


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on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

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1 Answer

Hard time shifting. replaced clutch slave cylinder. still shifts hard. plenty of clutch fluid.


Sometimes the slave cylinder takes a little extra bleeding to remove the air in it & until it's all gone, the clutch won't open completely, causing the problem you are describing.

If the shifting can be done between all of the gears while the engine isn't running on level ground then the forks should be ok & not bent inside the transmission and you should be able to get the car to shift properly.

I've done several of these and found that if you start by making sure the Clutch Master cylinder is full, and remember when you add fluid, try to add without aerating the fluid. Pouring down the side of a funnel is better than pouring straight into the container as fluid picks up air during the splash. Hopefully doing it this way will prevent small new air bubbles from getting back into the lines when bleeding.

Next, after having one person pump the clutch pedal quickly 3 or 4 times & continuing to hold the pedal to the floor until you've completed this phase, instead of just releasing the pressure through the bleeder valve, also push on the clutch fork/rod to go ahead & force the fluid completely out of the slave cylinder, tighten the bleeder and have the assistant slowly pump the pedal to bring the slave cylinder back into contact to where it was before you pushed it to drain it. Refill & bleed as usual a couple of times. If you don't have a good clutch pedal now with good release, you need to check the Clutch Master Cyliinder since once the bleeding is done, this is a completely automatically adjusting system. good luck

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