Front Passenger brakes rubbing

Depending on vehicle. Find level ground and park there. Put chocks in front and behind wheels not being lifted. Loosen lugs, jack up vehicle, set jack stands, lower vehicle on jack stands, remove lugs and wheel. Open hood remove brake fluid cap. Remove two bolts holding caliper, pull caliper off rotor disc and bracket, remove pads, place a used pad in front of caliper piston, use a c clamp to push caliper piston in caliper, remove c clamp and old pad, hang caliper up, remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket, remove bracket, remove rotor, install new rotor, install caliper bracket, install new pads, install caliper, repeat this on other side, put cap back on brake fluid tank, remove bleeder fittings and keep pressing brake pedal until an even flow of brake fluid sprays out. Install bleeder fitting. Make sure brake fluid doesnt get on paint and is contained and disposed of correctly, top off fluid install wheels and raise car up remove jack stands, lower car and break in new pads

The three most common reasons for brakes to stay applied is a faulty caliper, brake hose, or the caliper is not sliding on the spindle.
When the brakes are applied then released, do the pads stay against the rotor, and can you release them by opening the bleeder screw ?

One word of advise. If your caliber bracket is hitting the rotor, or rubbing it. It may be a faulty or loose wheel bearing. Sometimes when the bearings are replaced in these cars they sometimes are pressed in a bit too far , and will cause the bracket to appear off set. Listen when turning corners for the rubbing to get louder or go away. I've replaced many Alero brakes, and 50% of the Aleros that come in have bad bearings. Brakes on these cars are known to wear very quickly as well. It's a heavy car and only standard braking. Then they decided to give them rear wheel disk brakes , but still very light for the weight of the car. Good luck Cheers from Nova Scotia

Look through the openings in your front wheels and look at the front rotors-are they gouged up? You are probably running metal-to-metal, pads to rotors.
Chances are real good your rotors will have to be replaced along with new pads, but if you catch it early enough you might be able to have them machined, although nowadays that is hardly easy to get done and the savings usually is not as significant as it once was.

Its possible that the driver side is not clamping well. Sticky caliper piston. Forcing the passenger side to do most of the work. This will result in rapid overheating which will cause the passenger rotor to look bad after a short drive. Does driver side still look new? Do you feel any sideways pulling when braking? What prompted you to look again after changing rotors and pads? Since you first noticed noise on passenger side, indicating excessive wear, I think the problem is the drivers side caliper. You could try working caliper piston out and in a few tmes, but usually you want to replace a problem caliper.

Sounds like rear brake caliper is dragging. Inspect and clean.

remove front wheel, undo the retaining bolts from the brake caliper and remove it, do not undo the fluid line that runs to the caliper or you will have to bleed the brakes, just tie the caliper up under the guard somewhere
remove the metal cap from the middle of the rotor, remove the retaining pin from the nut and remove the wheel bearing from the stub axle, the rotor should now be free to remove from the car.
fit the new rotor, grease the bearings if required and tighten to remove any slop in the rotor, once that is done you can put the retaining pin back in place.
You may have to press the caliper piston in to get enough clearance to fit the brake pads over the new rotor, this can be done with a "G" clamp, just remove the outer pad, place a small piece of wood over the face of the inner pad where the "G" clamp is going to sit to protect the pad and wind the clamp to compress the piston, replace the outer pad and fit back into the caliper before you put the caliper over the rotor and bolt it on
hope this helps

jack up.take wheels off.turn steering right on caliper undo bracket slide bolt 2 of them them undo caliper bracket 2 more bolts move caliper and hang to left take take rotor off.thats for 4wheel drive.2 wheel with bearing.take bearing cap off take out cotter pin and lock washer off.pull rotor.suggestion new wheel bearings.and brakes.ps old school trick take fluid cap off.put flat head between pad n rotor pry back before taking caliper to recess the calipr.then remove brakes.then big water pump pliers and recess caliper fully.it will over flow the resovoir.no biggy brake cleaner off this will help.sometime bleeder valves brake off then cause you more aggrivation like buying new calipers.pss make sure yuo grease new bearings well and also caliper slides.hope this helps

check that you havent bent the baking plate behind rotor or drum that it is just touching the disc rotor and any anti rattle clips on brake caliper that they are fitted correctly.

This is a walk through for a 1993 2wd.

1. Jack up and remove tire
2. Remove 2 brake caliper mounting bolts
3. Remove caliper and hang out of way with wire
4. Remove rotor, if stuck hit on all sides with a rubber mallet until it breaks loose.
5. Install new rotor
6. Remove old pads from caliper
7. Using a c-clamp and a block of wood against caliper piston, compress piston until it is flush w/caliper
8. Install new pads in same location as old pads
9. Reinstall caliper, may have to nudge it into place with rubber mallet
10. Reinstall tire.

note: There are no bearings to grease. You must replace the entire hub assembly if yours are worn.