I cant get my 93 ford tempo master cylinder to bleed out of the front or secondary lines This is leaving me with no brakes on the passenger rear and driver front When it's not attached to the car it bleeds fine Once attached it only bleeds out of the back two or primary lines Any ideas

A master cylinder is supposed to be bench bled first to get the air out of the primary and secondary bores in the cylinder if you didn't do this there's air in the cylinder also you may have blown the seals inside it try to bench bleed it if you feel no pressure on the master cylinder plunger after bleeding it the seals are blown and you need another one ////\\\\if you do feel the pressure after bleeding and after installing it and bleeding the lines at all wheels and there is no pedal pressure the brake booster is the problem

You need to start at the brake that is furthest away from the master cylinder. If it is on the drivers side under the hood, start with the passenger rear wheel. Bleed until nothing but clear fluid comes out. Then move to the drivers rear and do the same. Next to the passenger front and finish with the drivers front. Make sure you do not empty the master cylinder in the process or you will have to start all over. If you get finished and still do not have a good pedal, you might need to change the master cylinder.

Sounds like a leak in the brake line.
In the first place the front disc brakes do 70% of the work to stop the vehicle .
When you need to bleed your brakes you break into the system this lets fluid out air will get in every time so even a pin hole in the line or at a fitting will let air in slowly .The problem is air is compressible fluid is not so look for leaks at rear lines and fittings its vary common for rear lines to rust out and many inexpensive ways to repair them .
An other thing to know is when bleeding brakes is if you didn't open the front lines you don't need to bleed them but with the rears start with the farthest one away from the master cylinder passenger side rear 99% of the time and work back to the master .
I think your whole problem is a rusted out line 94 thats a lot of road salt good luck

when replacing the brakes you usually dont bleed the system ---usually bleed system when air gets in from like changing a line master cylinder or caliper-- and or master is empty .but to bleed you start at passenger rear first than drivers side rear,up to passenger side front ending at drivers side front

Bill:

Check your master cylinder. It could be a piece of junk lodged in the fluid port for the rear brake lines, or in the brake line its self. The fact that both rear wheels spin tells me that if it is a clogged line, it is between the two manifolds, (one next to the master cylinder, and the other where the rear brake line splits into two... one for each rear hub. Or it could be that the piston in the master cylinder needs to be replaced. I would disconnect one brake line at one rear wheel and disconnect the rear brake line at the manifold (near the master cylinder)and blow that line out with air pressure. . do not leave the rear brake line connected to the master cylinder as you blow air through the lines as you may damage the master cylinder piston packings. You'll have to bleed the brakes when you are done.

you always start from the furthest line from the master, so start with the rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger then finally the front driver. be sure to put ne clean fluid in the master cylinder as you bleed off each line. the first thing you should do is remove all the old fluid from the resivour and add clean so you will be pulling fresh fluid through the line. you only stop bleeding the fluid out when you see clean fluid comming out. then you move on to the next one and repaes the steps.

Good day Robert W73, there should be a metal pipe leading from the master cyclinder to the rear wheels and to the front wheels. Try loosening the pipe on the master cylinder and pump the brakes. It might be that there is an air lock in the master cylinder. By loosening this pipe the air forsing the brake fluid back will be released. As soon as the clean brake fluid comes out of the pipe tighten the pipe again and pump the brakes. Then step on the brake pedal and hold it in, while the brake pedal is depressed open the bleeding nipple and close it again. Repeat this procedure till you have clean brake fluid comming out of the bleeding nipple. Just remember to bleed all the wheels starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the closest wheel.

I hope this helps. If it does not help you might need to replace the seals on the inside of the master cylinder or you will have to replace the master cylinder itself as there might be pit marks on the inside causing the hydraulic fluid to bypass the seals.

I would recommend that you make sure the bleeder nuts on these wheels are clear,then I would make sure your brake fluid is full and open both bleeder nuts and let the system gravity bleed until you get fluid to those wheels and then you should be able to bleed normally

there is a certain order in bleedig the brakes on some fords,i believe its right rear,left front right front,left rear,in not 100% sure,maybe you can contact the service department of a local dealer and obtain it that way,hope this helps a bit

No need to run the engine. Start the bleed procedure from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and work toward it. This means bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. Don't stop bleeding any caliper until you get three or so consecutive streams of air-free fluid through the bleeder. Monitor the level of fluid in the cylinder, and be sure the cap is on while bleeding - only open it to add additional fluid as needed.