97 mitsubishi eclipse gst turbo shifter stuck in park

Three possibilities:
1. Most likely: In the engine bay, on the end of the cables on the gearbox, are approx 2cm rubber bushes. These fall apart with age and road dirt. Replace as necessary.
2. Again on the gearbox, the cables fit through a bracket, which can work loose. The cables can also rust where they exit the cable sheath. This usually requires cable replacement.
3. Inside on the transmission tunnel, there are more small bushes that wear out. Replace (often have to be made specially now) as needed.

Since you didn't specify if you had the turbo or non-turbo engine, i'll give you links to both.
2.0L non-turbo (420a) RS/GS
2.0L turbo (4g63) GST/GSX

this link has a step-by-step DIY for changing the timing belt on your car. 2G TURBO TIMING BELT PROCEDURE

Your turbocharger blows seal , oil leaks to exhaust system.
You need a new turbo.

You will feel a loss of power

Not too hard but time comsuming get a repair manual it will hep you.

If you have a boost guage your positive pressure boost will be lower than normal and the bearing may make a squealing sound if it's going bad.

Is there oil in the turbo?

the engine will misfire, consume more gas, run roughly. it's better to replace all the spark plugs

if you swap in the turbo 2.0 4g63 your gonna need a turbo trans. the non-turbo wont work and he motor mounts should bolt up the same..hope this helps

If your planing on swaping the 2.0 non-turbo(420a) to the 2.0 turbo(4g63t) your problem will be that the motor and transmission are on opposite side of one another. My GST has the trans on the passenger side and the motor on the driver. The 420a is just the opposite. If your serious about it you should get the motor rebuilt with higher performance crank, pistons, rods, exc.  And they make turbo kits for the 420a.  But you'll need better fuel delivery and some mild tuning.

It's going to be hard to pinpoint that - with age and time, the wastegate and related parts can start to wear out, so that may need to be repositioned to keep the proper boost level. I know your car comes with a boost gauge, but do you have an aftermarket one? They're much better - the OEM boost gauge is not accurate enough to do much other than tell you whether you're in boost or vacuum. With an aftermarket gauge, you'll know what pressure you're actually making. With that, you can tweak the nut so that the wastegate opens at the proper point. Or you could get an electronic boost controller (used GReddy PRofec II units are available on eBay for less than $150) and really give yourself accurate boost control.