A/C blower fan quit working

SOURCE: Rear defroster and wiper stopped working

You are very welcome. Glad to help.
The graciousness of a FixYa rating for my assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for choosing FixYa to solve your problem!

SOURCE: Toyota HiAce 1988 alternator working no charge back to Battery

if it was me I would take the alternator off take it somewhere and have it tested because it sounds like it has a bad voltage regulator in it

Dar

• 2007 Answers
• Posted on Jun 04, 2009

SOURCE: Toyoto Yaris air conditioning fixed but not working after 1 week

It has probably leaked out again. Take it back, and tell them to find the leak this time.

SOURCE: 2001 Toyota corolla LE: Driver side power window problems

The motor is burned out, likely due to heavily worn brushes inside. As the motor cools (from lack of use) it becomes usable again, but quickly heats up and seizes with use.

You will need to replace the window motor. If you are mechanically inclined it is not a difficult job.

The door panel needs to be removed (numerous philips screws and push fasteners), then there are two 10mm bolts holding the glass to the regulator. Support the glass in the upward position with tape or suction cup supporting devices.

Disconnect the power to the motor and unbolt the regulator from the door (about 5 10mm bolts), then slide the regulator and motor assembly out the door opening.
If you purchased a complete regulator/motor (typical aftermarket), simply install the new one in reverse order.
If you purchased just the motor (typical OEM), you will need to unbolt the motor from the regulator. Becautious as the regulator is spring loaded and will snap open once the motor separates. Install the new motor with the regulator in the same position as before disassembly, and reinstall into the vehicle.

Testimonial: "Good detailed Solution. Thanks"

SOURCE: Toyota 04 Highlander Temp Control Problem

Hello. Thank you for requesting me. We have been seeing a large amount of Highlanders with temperature control issues. A replacement control is in the proximity of 900 dollars. After the fifth one sold, and some really unhappy customers, I decided to see what the issue was that was causing the failures. It turns out that the problem is nothing more than a broken wire of two. If you are handy with tools, and can use a soldering gun, you can fix it yourself. The problem with the controls needing replacement is a broken wire or two at the circuit board that controls the temperature (the center knob). This is unfortunately common, albeit an expensive repair. Here is how you can fix it yourself: What you will need: Pencil-type soldering iron, rosin core solder, a Phillips screwdriver, a 10 millimeter socket, extension and ratchet. First, remove the plastic fascia that surrounds the radio/heater-AC control. (Be careful to not crack it when removing it.) Next, remove all of the 10 millimeter bolts that holds the Radio/AC-heater control assembly to the dash panel, and unplug all of the wiring connectors. Next, remove the three control knobs on the Heater/AC control panel, and the silver nuts that holds the controls to the panel. They pull straight off. (Under the center knob, you will probably find a loose nut, this is what caused the wires to break, the control is loose in its holder.). Next, turn the assembly over, with the back facing upwards. You will see a rectangular black box. Remove the screws that hold the black box onto the back side of the front of the control panel. There will be a ribbon-wire connector that will need to be removed from the front panel; be careful when removing the black box?s connection, and take care to not damage the connection ribbon wires. Next, remove the entire circuit board from the panel cover, by removing several Phillips screws, this will allow easier access to the control board that needs the wire(s) soldered. At this point, you have two choices: You can solder the broken wire back onto the control?s board, or, if you desire, you can remove the ribbon wire, and replace it with different wires; personally, I choose this path, and I use telephone wire, three lengths, that I strip and solder to both locations, each of the three on the main board and the other end on the control board. Either way will work, as long as you solder the wires back properly, and avoid any possible shorts by allowing the solder to touch an adjacent lead. Once you have soldered the broken wires from the temperature control board back on to the main circuit board; reassemble the parts and refit it assembly to the dash. Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance today; I hope that this helps you out, and saves you a bunch of money.

Testimonial: "Thanks so much for the detailed instructions! Sure enough, 2 wires were broken. My husband was able to make the repairs, and the control gauge is now working perfectly. Thanks so much!"