Was driving down the road all of a sudden heater and all gauges stopped working and vehicle stalled. Pulled over and turned key it started back up, but nothing electrical inside cab is working. Drove to a friends hose near by and it stalled pulling in driveway. wouldn't start this time, called wrecker had it towed home. On the way we hit a bump and all of a sudden the flashers and lights came on. Got home it started right up but still nothing on in cab. Pulled into driveway and went to shut it off it wont shut off, I bumped the key forward and it will engage the starter but still wont shut off. Any Ideas
I have had problems in the past with the electrical switch that goes under the key tumbler. You may check it for wear and use a voltmeter checking it in different positions. The wiring diagrams should be available on any good search engine. I usually search the problem online first though.
Im sure that the clicking noise is the alarm. If it was still hooked up to a horn or siren you would hear it. I would find the brain box for the alarm and find out what model it is. If you don't want it or can't use it, I would download the manual and remove it from the vehicle altogether. You should be able to find the manual on the manufacturer's web site or any good search engine.
Most alarms will have a starter kill, this is what is preventing it from starting.
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It might possibly be the ignition switch, or the linkage to it.
They reason I suspect this is your statement, "I bumped the key forward and it will engage the starter but still wont shut off"
The part where you insert the key is really a "cylinder lock", that then transfers the turning motion to the actual "ignition switch"
My wife had a Pontiac (also a GM product) that the cylinder lock had a linkage that went to the ignition switch (similar to a sliding electric switch, with the 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START), which was bolted on further down the steering column, underneath the plastic covering on the column.
Another person here had a similar problem, and after suggesting this, he wrote back that he removed his steering column cover and found a screw opposite the cylinder lock that had loosened and fallen out.
So you could try removing the steering column cover and see if all is ok.
Also, when you have it opened up, observe the action as you turn the key, as the problem could be the cylinder lock itself.
SOURCE: 96 Yukon (vortec) not getting fuel.....wont start.
I trust this is a throttle body fuel injection system?
If it is: purchase a "noid" for your vehicle at an autoparts store this little tester will let you know if your injectors are working. if they are not; they will not be spraying gas into your "bowl" the injectors are little electrical powered solenoids; check fuses, fuseable links and, the efi module.
SOURCE: 2003 yukon xl loses all power while driving(SHUTS OFF)
Sounds like your fuel filter need's to be changed. Start with that and good luck.
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Ok got it to shut off by pulling fuel pump relay, but now it won't start. Fuel pump only seems to run for 3 sec test mode when you try starting it. Still no power to anything inside. In the under hood fuse panel the relay for the EDU is constantly clicking when key is in off mode turn key on it stops. Under dash there is another relay that is clicking constant to when key is off. I tested ignition switch it is working properly, so that's eliminated. Has aftermarket security in it so I unhooked that thinking that was bad, stil nothing. I think the EDU is the body control modual but couldn't find anything on line except ECU I know there not the same because there is a seperate relay for ECU.
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