94 sable turns over but isn`t getting any spark to plugs

When troubleshooting an ignition "no-spark" issue, it's helpful to first understand how the system works in sequence. The process starts with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor detecting engine rotation and cylinder position. The CKP signal is interpreted by the powertrain control module (PCM) which then sends a signal to the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM then drives the ignition coil which is when the high voltage (for spark) is created. From there, the high voltage goes through the ignition coil wire to the center of the distributor cap. Here, the spring-loaded button of the cap touches the center of the spinning rotor and transfers the voltage. The high voltage then jumps from the rotor to whichever pole the rotor is pointed towards at the outer edge of the cap; let's say it's cylinder #1. High voltage then travels through the cylinder #1 ignition wire to the cylinder #1 spark plug where it sparks and ignites the cylinder's air/fuel mixture. Considering these things, if there is no spark from any of the cylinder-specific ignition wires, the issue must be further upstream. Start by unplugging the ignition coil wire where it attaches to the distributor and check for spark; if present, the issue is with the distributor cap or rotor. If not present, the issue is further upstream. ICM and ignition coils are both pretty common failures, but further in-depth diagnosis would need to be performed in order to determine if there is a circuit failure, sensor failure, module failure, or other component failure. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-distributor-rotor-and-cap-by-tim-charlet

is it actually rotating when the engine turns over I know sounds stupid but I\'ve seen the teeth that goes inside against the cam break off on first turn over happened to me once on a Honda, also that same car my original problem was I was getting power and everything like you but the icm on the distributor was putting the power out on the ground side and the power turned to ground not allowing the distributor to do its job and produce spark





hope this helps

did it jump timing ?

First, verify all connections at distributor (both ends of each cable) are securely connected and inspect all lengths of each plug wire to make sure there are no major breaks, cuts, burns, abrasions that would be causing a short. Then, try another plug just to make sure it's not a bad spark/coil wire. If still no spark, then I would say rotor/distributor cap/distributor/ICM module (Ignition Control Module) is the problem. You can generally buy those parts seperate, or you can buy a whole distributor that typically has all combined. The ICM can usually be removed without too much difficulty and taken to an autoparts store for a test, but not always. If you go with the "piecemeal" solution, start with ICM test (if removable), then rotor cap, then move to distrubutor cap. If nothing has worked to this point, you can replace the distributor, but you have already bought everything BUT the actual distributor. It would make sense to price everything seperately versus cost of new distributor...up to you.

If you do replace the distributor, be absolutely sure to mark the position/direction the rotor cap is pointed on old one, so you can re-install the new one in exact same position. Otherwise finding TDC (top dead center) on #1 cylinder is another whole process.

Someone needs to check for voltage at the coil and the distributor.
The pickup coil in the distributor tells the coil when to fire.
If you are getting spark at the coil tower but not at the plugs, check the cap and rotor.

This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).





Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

If the coil is good and giving out spark and your ICM is good the cap can have a missing button which will not allow spark to go to the spark plugs through the plug wires do replace the distributor cap and rotor and spark plug wires

1 remove the cable from the coil to the distributor.
check this agains earth, when you turn the engine over.

if spark, suspect rotor arm is not setting spark to each spark plug lead.
open distributor and clean the rotor arm with a cloth or wire wool
not sand paper as this will take off too much and cause a problem

2 check inside distributor for moisture. spray inside with WD40 or equiventy water repelent.

3 if not spark at coil open distriutor cap and with ignition on, open and close points in distributor with a screw driver and check coil again against earth again if you get sparh, problem is points not opening and closing.

4 turn over engine with distributor cover removed to see if rotor arm is moving if not then cam drive to distributor is defective. this controls points and rotor arm.

if rotor arm turning and spark at points but no spark at coil suspect Low tension wiring or coil needs replacement.

i hope this was helpful

remove distributor cap,check for moisture or poor condition of 'contacts' on rotor & inside cap.check for a clean connection at coil to distributor lead,check spark plug wires.

Remove the distributor cap, so that the rotor is visible. Have an assistant turn the ignition to crank the engine over. If the rotor does not turn when the engine is cranking, then you need a timing belt or chain.

If the rotor does turn, then replace the coil.