I was told I needed to replace my intake plenum gasket... 2 nights ago my 97 chevy lumina gave out of gas and I had trouble restarting, car began idleing high propelling itself up to 69 + miles and sputtering..I had also been experience water leakage I thought was due to a loose hose..a repairman told me I had to replace a sensor (done) and that I needed to replace a plenum gasket and also get a new radiator..my radiator was given a new side tank (plastic portion) by a radiator specialist..or so I think I need that fixed..trying to avoid a lot of money..plenum gasket repair 153 dollars..radiator fix..133..i was also told i needed lucas and a sensor..what kind of sensor..it was cheap but labor was high..help! don't have any money!
SOURCE: 2004 Intrepid 2.7l needs $1500 in repairs
Listen to your regular mechanic! These engines are a nightmare. If you can trade or sell this now while it is still running, you will be avoiding a downward spiral of very expensive problems.
Google: "chrysler sludge" and have a stiff drink handy.
SOURCE: 1993 Chevy S10 Blazer engine hesitation with smoke from exhaust
Had a 94 Olds Bravada that did a similar thing and it was EGR valve on the front of the intake. It' s easy to take off and clean with WD 40 and if you have an air compressor blow it out good.
SOURCE: car overheated 3 weeks ago,
Take it to a different repair shop and have them check the water pump. If it is the water pump, contact the first mechanic and demand a refund of his labor charges. He should have known the car was still overheating by test driving it after he worked on it. If he won't cough up the money(and he won't), contact the Better Business Bureau and file a complaint. If this was a dealership, file a complaint with the dealership and the factory regional representative. You may not have any luck recovering the charges, but you sure can let them and everyone else how crooked they are, whether it be dealership or private mechanic. Let me know if it was the water pump. Good l;uck.
SOURCE: 2001 chevy malibu idles anywhere from 1500-2500 rpm then sputters and dies while driving.
I'LL TRY, GOOD TO SEE SOMEONE TRY AT LEAST ! IDLE SEEMS HIGH, BACK TO BASICS !!!!!! THE AIR & FUEL FILTERS NEED REPLACED, SPARK PLUG WIRES, YOU FORGOT THEM !!! DISTRIBUTOR CAP & ROTOR, YOU FORGOT THEM !!! THESE ARE AS IMPORTANT AS THE AIR WE BREATHE !!!!! VACUUM LEAKS, CHECK ALL VACUMM LINES, THOROUGHLY ! THIS LINE COMING OUT OF THE TRANSAXLE PORTION OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD ?????????????????/ YOUR NEED TO REPLACE WHATEVER IT IS, WHAT KIND OF LINE ? METAL, RUBBER , WIRE ??? MOVING ON, GOOD YOU REPLACED THE OXYGEN SENSOR, & IDLE AIR VALVE, & TPS, RECHECK TPS, IS IT LOOSE, ALSO TIGHTEN THROTTLEBODY BOLTS, THE ONES THAT HOLD IT DOWN. SO, CHANGE YOUR FILTERS,WIRES, ETC., MENTIONED ABOVE, CAP & ROTOR, ETC.,ETC.,.........GO FROM THERE, SEE HOW THAT WORKS
SOURCE: idles high then dies, new fuel pump and ecm
I would start with the vac leak idea.
And is the check engine light on when it is running ?
If so you should have the computer checked for trouble codes first.
There has to be a source for extra air coming into the intake or throttle body for the engine to run fast at idle, assuming the idle air control valve is working correctly.
That air source has to be found and fixed first.
It could even be the throttle plate not closing completely.
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