The air temp sensor, removing it or unplugging it MAY do a few things depending on the type of sensor it is. Most send a signal to the computer in terms of resistance (ohms) that changes with temp. That signal is used by the PCM in conjunction with others (MAF O2s MAP) to determine timing and fuel requirements. If you unplug the IAT sensor the computer (on most GM cars) will see an open or infinite resistance and give the lowest possible temp input to the computer for air temp. That can increase timing across the RPM range sometimes giving a few extra ponies. It can also lead to detonation if too much timing is present.
I hooked up a 10k ohm potentiometer to my IAT sensor so I can dial in the temp I want. If I want some timing ****** for nitrous I dial it so the computer sees 185 degrees F and it takes 2 or 3 degrees total timing out. For more timing I Dial in 20 degrees F and it will advance it some. Works good.
The 10K ohm you can pick up a radio shack for under $7.00 and wire fo $3.00. You can connect the chip you speak of to the pink wire from the IAT sensor which is not a part of the MAF sensor. The IAT is along the intake tube between the MAF and Throttle body with two wires from it.
The chip you bought is the biggest rip off and i wish i though of it but, well about marketing it. Your kinda stuck running 91 octane and changing the thermostat to a lower rating. The first engine knock that the knock sensor picks up will turn the timing down and shorten the fuel injection pules, That's why i played with the potentiometer and every other cars i get to play with around town.
Good luck and hope this helps. Keep in touch oh and if the knock sensor picks up the detonation, you lose around 10 to 15 HP. Till the next start up.
Get a diagram from dealer for the iat not mass air and just hook it up to iat. maf are to exspensive to mess with . tell the dealer you need to replace your iat and need a diagram they will give it to you. that's your wires
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