1986 Nissan 200SX (Silvia S12) When started there is a faint belt whine, that eventually fades away at idle. Just today I was driving home from school and it started, it only does it when throttle is

One of your belts need to be replaced

Crank angle sensor =CAS DTC code 11 .
or
Cam angle sensor = CAS s work best. for sure.
i think this engine it is both !
there is no distributor it has 4 COPs coil over plug
and 1 ignitor module l , that nissan calls the power transistor pack. or PTU, the CAS on this car is really 2 sensors in one.
1 for cam angle and TDC (its a bit sloppy but back then no OBD2 rule to kill this idea)
they call it the crank sensor but is connect to the cam.

what car, what year, ? what country?

and sputter yes.
why not post exact year and car body mode.
or do like we all do
and log in and read the CAS timing , on your car.
alldata.com or buy the FSM.


here is the lest of cars using this engine.
The 1.8 L CA18DET was the last version of the CA engine to be released. It produces 167 hp (124 kW) and 166 lb·ft (228 Nm). It received a brand new DOHC aluminum head with 16 valves. The turbocharger was also upgraded to a Garrett T25 (.48 A/R) unit for increased flow capacity, and as such, was fitted with an intercooler to help prevent the onset of pre-ignition and/or detonation. Fuel was delivered via Multiport Fuel Injection. Bore is 83 mm (3.3 in), and stroke is 83.6 mm (3.29 in). An electronically controlled fuel injection system was used with 370cc injectors.
It was used in the following vehicles:

• 1987-1988 Silvia S12 RS-X
• 1989-1990 Nissan Silvia/180SX S13 (International market)
• 1987-1989 Nissan Bluebird RNU12 SSS ATTESA Limited (Japanese Market)
• 1989-1994 Nissan 200SX RS13-U Europe.
• 1985-1990 Nissan Auster "1.8Xtt" and "Euroform Twincam Turbo"

we run a 200sx in South America. Custom Turbo. ECU and all.

Our engine CAS sensor, has slots see them?
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w218/kartguy3/DSCF1057.jpg
see it.

This engine has no timing freeze DLC (check-conn)like most engine.
so.
hot normal idle speed, set it to FACTORY spec. 15deg. BTDC
do not guess. the ECU hates that. it assumes it is correct
and if not, will mess up big time. Set it to spec. and LEAVE IT.

if you dont have an FSM or a book showiing how to set timing
ask for one, buy one, or google for it.

if a turbo, and you guess, 4 cracked pistons is your future.
here is the fRee FSM
see page EC22 for spark timing.
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AUTOMOBILE/NISSAN/misc/

down load the zip extract it the PDF is the shop manual.

did you run the ECU diagnostics, yet?, RTM.?
for IS the Check engine lamp glowing running?

toy and nissan have the best FSM , of all.
very BIG on diagnosis, unlike USA cars.
the ECU has switch see that?
and if a crank or cam sensor misfires, it will tell you it did.
I'm sure.
the ECU has 5 modes of diagnosis. a very nice ECU.
page 186

Now the real TOPIC :
Now MISFIRE
Misfire is 50 reasons or just 3, (micro, and macro viewed logically
1: bad engine , low compression on any cylinder or all (timing belt slip is all) 150 PSI is minimum. for me. RTM
2: bad /weak/timed wrong, spark. (cas set wrong) test spark on all cylinders. and set the timing, if found way off the cam belt slipped)
never doing a 60,000 mile tune? duh factor 1?
3: bad fueling. too rich turns spark plugs (new?) black. and misfires.
lean fueling causes, bogging and lost engine power.
flooding can be caused by may things, it is , ask how to find this easy.

misfire causes the engine to shake does it?

ever consider a new cam timing belt, or do you want to risk it snapping or slipping?
all Nissans are interference engine. if the belt slips BAM, kiss off a nice motor.

STOP doing that, forget about it, your going to blow your engine !

the ECU is messed up or the Throttle body is clogged.

Sounds like your starter motor is bad, but it could also be just a bad starter relay not allowing current to the starter motor. Have the relay checked first, then the starter.

sounds like a belt slipping. I would have that checked by a local garage!

How white? I would get a can of carbcleaner and spray a little here and there around the intake area to see if you have a vacuum leak. If the smoke is real white like the clouds the you may have an internal coolant leak to a cyl.

check the cat. it may be clogged

I'd remove the belt/belts and check all the idler pulleys. Did you retighten the belts or is it a single serpentine belt with an auto tensioner?

i dont like to just jump at a expensive thing like that. you should pull the intake side off the turbo and check your impeller endplay and up and down movement first. ill se what i can find for specs. but if it is realy loose then we know what ya have to do