2005 toyota avalon intake plenum removal

See this YouTube video:
Toyota Avalon V6 DETAILED Spark Plug Replacement

You'll see why dealers charge upwards of $400 for this job!

Most back seats come out the same way. The seat (bottom part) is usually bolted down with two bolts that can be accessed by lifting the rear carpet away from the seat sill, near the floor. Once these bolts have been removed, the seat can be lifted up and out. This should now reveal the two bolts that hold the backrest to the body. Undo them and the backrest can be pushed up and out.

they are located under the intake manifold in the center of the engine. One is towards the front and one is towards the rear. The intake plenum and intake manifold will need to be removed in order to service the knock sensors. More commonly the harness fails.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

No !! Take off the grill in front of the windshield u can get to it from there

Exactly what is the wrong? Need the part? Need to know torque adjust or porcedure to take off?

For 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl check this procedure for Intake Manifold...
(see Figure 14)
The 3.1L engine is equipped with upper and lower intake manifolds. The upper intake manifold is also known as the intake manifold plenum.

CAUTION The fuel system is under pressure and must be properly relieved before disconnecting the fuel lines. Failure to properly relieve the fuel system pressure can lead to personal injury and component damage.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove top half of the air cleaner assembly and throttle body duct.
4. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
5. Disconnect the EGR pipe from exhaust manifold.
6. Remove the serpentine belt.
7. Remove the brake vacuum pipe at the intake plenum.
8. Disconnect the control cables from the throttle body and intake plenum mounting bracket.
9. Remove the power steering lines at the alternator bracket.
10. Remove the alternator.
11. Label and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and wire retainers on the intake plenum.
    
12. Remove the ignition assembly and the EVAP canister purge solenoid together.

Fig. 14: View of the intake manifold and related components

1. Disconnect the upper engine wiring harness connectors at the following components:
   Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Idle Air Control (IAC) Fuel Injectors Coolant temperature sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
2. Tag and disconnect the vacuum lines from the following components:
   Vacuum modulator Fuel pressure regulator PCV valve
3. Disconnect the MAP sensor from upper intake manifold.
4. Remove the upper intake plenum mounting bolts and lift off the plenum.
5. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and bracket.
6. Install engine support fixture special tool J 28467-A or an equivalent.
7. Remove the right side engine mount.
8. Remove the power steering mounting bolts and support the pump out of the way without disconnecting the power steering lines.
9. Disconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the outlet housing.
10. Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump and the cylinder head.
11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at thermostat housing.
12. Remove the thermostat housing.
13. Remove both rocker arm covers.
14. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. Make sure the washers on the four center bolts are installed in their original locations.
    

When removing the valve train components they should be kept in order for installation the original locations.

1. Remove the rocker arm retaining nuts or bolts and extract the rocker arms and pushrods.
2. Remove the intake manifold from the engine. Remove and discard the gasket.
3. Using a suitable scraper, clean gasket material from all mating surfaces. Remove all excess RTV sealant from front and rear ridges of cylinder block
   

To install:

1. Place a 0.12 inch (3mm) bead of RTV, on each ridge, where the front and rear of the intake manifold contact the block.
2. Using a new gasket, place the intake manifold on the engine.
3. Install the pushrods in their original locations. Coat the pushrods with prelube.

The intake pushrods are marked yellow (5 3 /4 inch long) and the exhaust are green (6 inches long). Make sure the pushrods are properly seated in the valve lifters and rocker arms.

1. Position the rocker arms in there original locations and tighten to specifications. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section.
2. Install lower the intake manifold attaching bolts. Apply sealant 12345739 (or equivalent thread locking compound) to the threads of bolts. Tighten the vertical bolts first then the diagonal bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
3. Install the front rocker arm cover.
4. Install the thermostat housing.
5. Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
6. Fasten the coolant inlet pipe to thermostat housing.
7. Connect coolant bypass pipe at the water pump and cylinder head.
8. Install the power steering pump in the mounting bracket.
9. Loosely install the serpentine belt.
10. Connect the right side engine mount.
11. Remove the special engine support tool.
12. Fasten the fuel lines to fuel rail and bracket.
13. Install the upper intake manifold and tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
14. Install the MAP sensor.
15. Connect the upper engine wiring harness connectors to the related components removed earlier.
16. Connect the vacuum lines to the PCV, vacuum modulator and fuel pressure regulator.
17. Install the EVAP canister purge solenoid and ignition assembly.
18. Install the alternator assembly.
19. Connect the power steering line to the alternator bracket.
20. Install the serpentine belt.
21. Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and intake plenum wire retainer.
22. Install the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
23. Attach the control cables to the throttle body lever and upper intake plenum mounting bracket.
24. Install air intake assembly and top half of the air cleaner assembly.
25. Install the brake vacuum pipe.
26. Fill the cooling system.
27. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.

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Hope helps.

You will have to remove the intake manifold (this is the solid large plastic cover that covers the top of the engine when you remove the engine cover). There are many wires and small vacuum hoses to disconnect. Plus.., when re-installing, it is a common problem the manifold cracks if excessive torque is applied to the fastening bolts. And you probably should relpace the intake manifold gasket.You can then remove the thermostat assembly by disconnecting the hoses and loosening the mounting screw.

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The procedure as per service manual is as follows:----

Following the Service Manual instructions, drain the coolant circuit, then remove the return pipe and the short rubber hose connected to the engine main coolant rail (1 clip at the bottom + 1 clip at the top). You remove also the outlet hose (1 clip at the engine outlet spout + 1 clip at the bottom pipe, you need to loosen the pipe mount to remove the hose). Once removed the return pipe you can undo the coolant rail: 2 (tight) bolts below the rail and the oil dipstick bolt holding the thermostat housing. Doing this without the manifold in place is simple, but its not that easy with the manifold on.... once loosened the coolant rail you can remove the thermostat housing. You open it (3 bolts) and replace the old thermostat with new. All 3 gaskets should be replaced, to minimize the risk of leaks. Apply silicone lubricant on the O-rings, then fit housing + coolant rail back in.

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This will help you.Thanks.Helpmech.

My 2002 Land Rover Freelander V6 thermostat crapped out as well and I decided to replace it myself.

The plenum is deceptive, but after 3 hours of looking and trying I finally got it off. Of course there are many hoses and electrical connections that need to be removed, but that's the easy part because you can see them all. The bolts that hold on the plenum are what your worried about and I will now tell you where they are. Read this and you should take about 30min to remove the plenum.

There are a total of 6 bolts to be removed that secure the intake plenum to the intake manifolds.

First remove the 4, 10mm large and obvious bolts at the top of the plenum. Now here is the tricky part, there are 2 bolts that are at the back of the plenum near the fire wall. As you are looking at the intake plenum from the front of the car, they are on the back side of the plenum near the fire wall on the passenger and driver side of the intake plenum.

Both bolts your looking for are 8mm bolts. If you remove a 10mm bolt, your removing the bolts that secure the rear spark plug coils.

The driver side rear intake plenum 8mm bolt is secured to the plenum itself. Fell with your hand about the back of the plenum on the right side for a lone bolt that is in the plenum with a metal tab that goes down to the back of the rear cylinder head. Remove the bolt that is attached to the intake plenum, not on the rear cylinder head

The passenger side one is a bit different. Feel on the back of the intake plenum about the passenger side for a metal support tab that comes down from the intake plenum and secures to the rear cylinder head. Where the support tab attaches to the head is a 8mm bolt that you remove.

Now here come the leap of faith. If you have the 4, 10mm obvious bolts removed and the 2, 8mm from the rear of the plenum removed, and if you can rock the plenum up and down about 2-3 inches,but it still feels like its attached to the intake manifolds in the middle of the engine, then you have removed all the bolts that secure the intake plenum to the engine. This is good.

The intake plenum is now being held on by the rear intake manifold by 3 O-ring gaskets. Push onto the back of the intake plenum near the firewall to expose a gap at the front of the intake plenum at the front intake manifold. Put 2-3 long flat screwdrivers into the gap or a small pry bar, and ever so gently but forcefully, apply prying force as to not damage the mating surface of the aluminum intake manifold, until the intake plenum pops off. It will just POP off.

Now that the intake plenum is popped off, take careful note of all the electrical plugs and hoses as to where they attach. You will not need any tools to disconnect the electrical plugs or hoses. To remove the hoses, push down the red ring with you fingers that the hose goes into and pull on the hose, it should come out very easily. The electrical connectors, push on the metal clip down and pull the connector loose. The electrical connectors only plug into their own plug, so you cant mess them up.

Tools you will need to replace the thermostat;

1. 8mm combo wrench. Make sure its not too long, shorter is better.
2. 10mm socket, shallow. 10mm combo wrench
3. 2-3 flat screwdrivers, for prying off the intake plenum
4. Ratchet wrench
5. 1 foot long worth of socket extensions. 2 6inch extensions will work as well
6. Universal socket joint
7. Angled needle nose pliers make it easier for hose clap removal, but straight needle nose pliers will work
8. Diagonal cutters to cut securing zip ties for the wiring harness

Take you time, once the plenum is off it goes pretty smooth after that. We removed just the forward intake manifold and that was more than enough clearance to remove the thermostat. You do not need to remove the fuel rail or spark plug coils from the manifold but you will need to disconnect the electrical connections to move the intake manifold out of the way.


Take pictures, there's a lot of hoses that go all over the place. The electrical connectors are only long enough to go where their supposed to go.

Then take that UK piece of **** to the dealer and trade it in for anything made in the USA or Japan. Changing a thermostat in any of those will only take 10 min and require 1 tool.

Repair provided by KPCYCLES.com of Honolulu, HI

you are going to have to take it to a shop unless yo have the tools and the time to take the covers off that are on the engine then follow the wires from the distributor to the spark plugs and do them one at a time.

Hello. Let me try to assist you the best I can, with the hope of achieving a FixYa rating from you for my assistance.

Changing the rear valve cover gasket on your vehicle would be not considered a "real" big job, but IS a time-consuming job.
In order to remove the rear cover, you first have to remove the intake plenum. If you do not remove the plenum, you can't get to the valve cover bolts that are under the plenum. After the plenum is off, the valve cover is easy to access. You will also need to replace the intake plenum gasket, if you do the job yourself.

I hope this information has satisfied your question.
Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance!

You need to pull off the entire intake manifold/plenum assembly. The knock sensor is bolted to the inside of the cylinder block, it is in the middle of the culinder block.