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rip kindell Posted on Jan 18, 2014
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When testing starter out of truck works fine, put starter in truck and under load starter stays engaged, rip

GROUND STARTER TO FRAME AND USING KEY SWITCH TO INGAGE STARTER, ENGAGES AND DIENGAGES FINE BUT PUT BACK IN TRUCK AND ENGAGE AND STAYS ENGAGED, WATS UP RIP

2 Answers

rjl2000

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  • Contributor 38 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 09, 2015
rjl2000
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I would look at two things. The return spring and the depth of the engagement that the starter gears go into the flywheel. If the spring is weak or broke it will act "normal" when it is not under load but will have a hard time returning from the flywheel engagement.
If the adjustment of the starting gears is engaging too far then the flywheel will "hold on" to the starter gear and not allow it to return. Try adjusting with shims to get the gears to mesh correctly. Ask for those shims at the parts store. Good Luck.

Stephen

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 21,873 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 18, 2014
 Stephen
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Either the solenoid is getting power when it should not be, or the starter drive is not aligned with the flywheel.

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3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 374 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 15, 2009

SOURCE: when truck is running the starter want's to engage not good for the flywheel or starter i think it might be the ingnition switch but not sure need help /???

hi! there,
well, possible cause engaging starter while
running there is a short circuit on your starting
system wiring.
check on ignition switch after starting and
engine run normally,possibility after
cranking and release the key run
engine normally there is short occurd on
solenoid relay.if defective replace this is
mounted separately from starter motor.
usually on near engine there a fuse and
relay box.

you mention you changed starter motor
and no change,there is starter solenoid
attached directly to starter motor
assembly this to move the plunger pinion
gear that will hook the flywheel to turn.
after cranking and normal engine run.after
that the plunger pinion gear will disengage
by the supply from solenoid relay.so you
must check your solenoid relay circuit.

have a nice day.dont gorget to rate me
thank's

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Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 13, 2008

SOURCE: starter stays engaged

The starter relay on the fender is the most common cause of this condition. ,It is on passenger side feder in the engine compartment, it is round and the positive cable of the battery goes to it,

Anonymous

  • 146 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2010

SOURCE: Turn key and starter stays engaged. Turn key off

The starter solenoid is failing. Sooner or later the starter will probably not disengage after you turn the key off. Then you'll have to disconnect the battery in a hurry. It's no fun. And at that point the whole starter will probably have to be replaced. Depending on how long it takes you to unhook the battery. Trust me. That is no way to start your day. It's really bad for your blood pressure. Good Luck.

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Hi Mark
Sounds like you are doing all the right things.
We used to Load Test a Starter Motor by putting it in a Large Vice and connecting a known good battery with solid fat jumper leads.
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At the starter relay, you have two red or purple wires, one goes to the starter and the other comes from a 30amp fuseable link. Is that fuseable link circuit hot ?
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Well since you replaced the starter, I think I would load test the battery cold and then again hot. It could be you have a dead cell in the battery and it is not producing enough voltage to work the starter solenoid.
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I was driving on the road when the starter engaged and burn out, I replaced the starter motor, starter relay, and ignition switch. turned the key and starter stays on. had to disconnect battery to stop it....

Hello, There are small wires that attach to the Starter Relay. These are the wires Mechanics call "tickler" wires. There should not be power going through the tickler wire unless the Ignition switch is turned to the START position.

Disconnect the small wire off of the Starter Relay. Leave it off and put your battery cable on the Battery. The Starter should not crank. The Ignition should be OFF.

Now we need to find out where the tickler wire is getting power from. Put a Multimeter or test light on the Tickler wire for POS and ground the other wire on the tester to a NEG ground. I suspect your problem is in the Interlock switch. The Interlock switch would be on the Clutch pedal lever under the dash for a standard shift.

If you had an Automatic transmission, the Interlock would be in the shift linkage or Brake pedal lever. Without changing from an Auto to a Standard trans people have trouble hitting the under dash Interlock switch with their shoes getting in and out of their cars. Even while driving you can hit the under-dash switches with your shoes.

So check under the dash for a broken or dislocated switch on the Clutch or Brake pedal levers. Then move the switches until the Test equipment shows the power is not going to the Tickler
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I hope my solution is very helpful in giving you ideas about fixing your car.
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