Go out start car go too store come out wont start fuel pump wont run wait 10 mins it will start
Probably a bad fuel pump.
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SOURCE: 1995 nissan pulsar wont run properly
What your smelling fuel for is the fact that once you start it your flooding the **** out of it.. your fuel relese valve needs to be closed up a bit, your intake for fuel is to high basically, this can and will happen due to racing, vibration, or just over time. Its one of those problems that occurs now and then, it is a simple fix!!
SOURCE: 2000 Grand am gt 3.4 dies out when driving
no its vapor locking losen up the fuel cap and leave it lose your vent line is prob plugged
SOURCE: wont start security light stays on
Body Control Module (BCM) on both counts. Find a shop in your town that specializes in electrical systems to test it. Beware, these can be intermittent problems, so make sure they keep it until the car does what you have observed. Expect to spend about $450 for the replacment. Dealers quoted me between $700 and $1,100 for the same repair. By the way, a new BCM will probably only last you about 12 months.
SOURCE: 1994 dodge intrepid 3.3l stalls while driving w/o
I have a 1995 Dodge Stratus and I had the same problems last winter it turned out to be the main brain the ECU as they call it It costas about 1200 dollars new but i scored mine from a junk yard for 10 bucks and my car hasnt done it since. They very well may be your problem because i have the same engine in my car its just a smaller body style. look on the net for spaldings used car parts u can look up parts and they usually sell ecus for 75 to a 100 dollars.
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SOURCE: i have a vw bora
This looks very like either the crank sensor or cam sensor is faulty. The are OK when cold but as they warm up everything expands just that little bit and if there is a break in the wiring inside them then a gap opens up and it dies. When it cools down things contract back again the gap closes the break reconnects and it works again. If it is possible put straightened out paper clips (called 'back probing') into the back of the wires at the sockets to these devices and then use a voltmeter to detect the voltages on them. Check when cold and then every few minutes as the engine warms at idle. One of the sensors will begin to reduce voltage as it gets warm, this is the faulty one that needs changing.
Testimonial: "i really dont know what to say that was really helpful ... my car now works fine . thanx i appreciated :)"
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