Fiesta brake problem

What lamps were you having a problem? So there is a lamp on your dash that says tail gate is open? There is usually a switch or sensor for that?
Maybe I misunderstood your problem?
If the tail gates lamps at the rear are staying on, no matter what you do, I'd have to check wiring diagrams for that lamp control.

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hi, if the grab is while braking, there may be an uneven piston to pad/drum wear or adjustment -- check brake assembly and pressure equalizers on the lines -- they put equal hydrolic pressure to both wheels - if one is bad, that will also cause problem of grab

Moulded into the sidewall of the tire.

yellow warning light means urgenyt attention to the brakeing system

these light mean that there is a malfunction in your anti-lock brake/traction control system. your abs/traction control is shutoff by your computer until the repair is made. you have regular brakes until the repair is made. usually it is metal shavings from your brakes that covers the sensors which in a lot of cases are magnetic and attract the metal shavings. go to a shop have the code pulled and an estimate given to you for repair. Source(s):I am a certified diagnostic technician

What happens is if you have a bad front wheel bearing when you brake that wheel will turn in or out,when this happens it throws the four wheel alignment out and since this is a solid rear axle,it's forcing it to flex on the suspension,wich could cause the rear tires to bite on the outside edge of one tire and the inside edge of the other,thats one possible the other would be that the rear brakes are are not slowing the wheels evenly causing the same issue.I saw this problem with a bad front wheel bearing on a Nissan Pathfinder but not as pronouced due to the independent rear suspension. Check the front wheel bearings,which of course will mean getting the calipers off the rotors,and then check for any movement in the rotor,if there is check the hub nut,if it's loose tighten it and check for play in the rotor if there is still play that's going to be caused by a bad bearing.You can check the braking in the rear with a simple spring scale(like the ones used for fishing),with the wheels removed have someone apply enough pedal pressure to just engage the brakes but still allow movement attach the scale hook to a wheel stud and pull until it starts to move and note how many pounds of pressure it takes to move the hub.If it's uneven chech your adjusters and even them if needed and then retest,if still uneven you'll need to bleed them again.As far as the dark black substance in the fluid I would say you may gotten a contaminent in the fluid.Brake fluid gets kind of a rusty reddish residue when it breaks down.If I missed anything or you need clarification don't hesitate to ask I'm home all day.Hope this helps solve your problem.

There is also a push in socket at the top of the light and a clip at the bottom. When the screws are all undone insert a flat screw driver under the light fitting about 4 inches from the top (remember to use a cloth under the edge of the screwdriver to avoid marking the paintwork) you should be able to push it out now.

emergency brake cable may not have been adjusted properly or emergency brake may have been partially engaged without brake light indicating such. Check brake release handle, if it makes no noise as to indicate realease, then it would have to be the e brake adjustment or frozen brake cylanders that when brakes are applied the pressure presses the shoes against the drums but does not release pressure, could be bad cylanders but not likely on both sides at the same time.

The Chardes have a diagonal split system, so one of the front discs is plumbed to the diagonally located rear drum.

You may need to check the front brakes too and that they have been bleed properly.

Other common cause of uneven braking are:

seized wheel cylinder;
brake hose obstruction or weakend wall;
weak pull off spring on shoe;
uneven drum roundness;
compensator/proportioning valve dicky.