Car wants to start...it just won't turn over, however, the dials are not moving either
SOURCE: 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo starter
This means it is the solenoid. But usually on those the starter and solenoid are one unit. They can be purchased individually, but it is usually almost as expensive as replacing the whole unit.
SOURCE: 1996 jeep Grand Cherokee has a scan code P0351.It says
Wiggle the connectors on the PCM during those four or five minutes...
I'm going to try the hose clamp fix myself. I have been struggling with stalling for about a month now. As a matter of fact, my PCM looks just like the one with the hose clamp. Connector C1 (black) missing the locking tab. I have tried the screw repair and zip ties. Zip ties worked for about a week and then I had a hiccup followed two days later by a full blown stall. Now it's stalling about 4 to 6 times in a one way trip to work (11 miles).
I was able to procure a clamp tonight and got it installed. When I go home we'll see. I was throwing a P0351 code with a code 43. This is an aggravating fault to be sure. I am an aircraft electrician by trade so and thanks to the volumes of people who have had this problem I have been able to do some really good fault isolation.
It exists either in the C1 connector for me or the PCM. Initially I changed the TPS and then found found C1 ready to fall off the PCM (Thus the zip ties).
Later I found that even though zip tied wiggling the harness could duplicate the fault. So another zip tie around the harness to pull tension on the connector. The fault returned. I also took a rubber mallet to the computer while the engine is running and duplicated the fault as well.
At this point I'll try the hose clamp and see how that works out. Either I don't have a good connection on C1 or the male pin 7 in the computer is a problem. Since I have an obvious defect in the locking tab on the C1 connector I'm swaying towards that.
I want to talk a little system knowledge here courtesy of a guy who posted on CNet.
1. P0351 is a coil code. However:
a. The coil receives a signal from the PCM connector C1 Pin 7 to "fire".
b. There are only two wires at the coil, signal wire from the PCM pin 7 and a ground wire.
c. In order for the PCM to throw code P0351 the PCM had to fail to send the proper fire signal. Of course this assumes that you have a known good coil, clean ground and no breaks in your wiring.
2. A multimeter checks continuity not integrity. The average 18 gauge wire has 22 individual copper conductors(wires) inside the insulation. You can have 21 broken strands and still read full continuity through that single strand of wire. But that single strand of wire will not be able to handle the signal being sent to the coil (load). A load light will always check integrity AND continuity. A weak light means not enough current going through the wire and a strong light means good wire integrity.
3. So with this said, In order for P0351 to set, the computer has to give an erroneous signal to fire. Pin 7 is an OUTPUT. Now is this caused by a bad computer? Possible. A bad connection? More likely.
Let's face it computers will fail, but in my 22 years of electrical experience bad/loose/dirty connection points are the weakest link. A cold solder joint on the PC board in the computer? Yes, however this will generally show up shortly after the vehicle rolls off the assmbly line. Not 13 years later!
As for the "screw" fix. I read a post from an engineer who scraped all the resin out of the PCM to see what was on the board. The long screws go to a NYLON nut on the board. But does not come near the current path of the PC board.
SOURCE: 96 jeep grand cherokee 4.0
I ve put coil pickup' crank sensor' coil still no power to fuse block on finder' no fire to plugs ' don't here fuel pump, this is on one another one blows fuse to the firing ever time I turn the switch on
Unlock all of the Jeep Grand Cherokee's doors and open the driver's side door. Keeping the door open, lock it using the manual lock on the door itself.
Put the manual key into the ignition and switch it to the "On" or "Run" position, whichever applicable, without starting the engine.
Control any distant PC remotely. Test the Software now for Free!
www.TeamViewer.com/Remote_Control
Point the remote at the receiver (located by the little bulb on the car ceiling) and hold down the "Lock" button for up to 5 seconds.
When the driver's side door unlocks, you know the remote has been programmed correctly. If you are only programming one remote, jump to the next step. If not, manually re-lock the driver's side door and repeat steps 5 and 6 using each remote you would like to program and then continue.
Turn the key to the "Off" position and turn the ignition on immediately. This must be done within 20 seconds of programming the last remote. You're finished!
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