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Posted on May 24, 2009
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How to change engine oil?

Hi guys I just know how to drive thats it , zero in car mechanics
I want to change my car's engine oil and oil filter.I have purchased both as per the given manual and specs.  Please help me to locate the nut to drain out the oil first I got 1988 Toyota Corolla AE82 Hatchback The manual says to loosen the nut but i cannot see from top. can anyone post the picture.
great thanks

  • esage1 May 24, 2009

    thanks , will give a try 

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  • Posted on May 24, 2009
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You can't see it from the top because the oil pan and drain plug are on the bottom of the engine. You will probably have to jack up the car in order to crawl underneathand reach the drain plug.

You should change the oil when the car is cold, otherwise you'll end up with hot oil spilling onto your hands. You'll also need a pan that holds 2 gal of liquid and place it under the car beneath the drain plug.

Remove the plug, drain the oil, replace the plug. Remove and replace trhe filter. then refill with oil. Do not over fill

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0helpful
2answers

My oil service light came on a few days ago than today my car stopped while i was driving it i was able to restart it but now its making a weird sound

HI, you dont say what the sound is like, Have you checked the engine oil, this car as the PD engine fitted and only use good fully synthetic oils.it could have gone into limp mode for lots of reasons, go to a reputable repair centre and get the car checked out, good luck.
tip

Which Oil Should I Use?

A common question is 'Which oil should I use?'

There's three categories of engine oil:
  1. Fully synthetic
  2. Semi synthetic
  3. Mineral
As a general rule of thumb, fully synthetic is the best - and the most expensive.
Semi synthetic is a blend of synthetic and mineral oil, and mineral oil is lifted out a hole in the ground in a bucket.

Oil is also given a rating of 0-30W and 5-40W. There's others, of course. This rating just refers to the viscosity - the thickness of the oil under certain conditions. 0-30W is a thinner oil than 5-40W.

At one time people used to use a thicker oil in their car engine during the winter months and a thinner oil during the summer months.

Fully synthetic 0-30W oil is often specified for engines that have 'zero tolerance'. Here, zero tolerance simply means no space between the metal of the piston and the cylinder wall. The oil must be thin enough to be able to coat the mating metal surfaces and yet be robust enough to withstand the pressures of what is basically pressurised metal to metal contact.

Using semi synthetic oil in a zero-tolerance engine will cause very rapid wear indeed. Topping up a zero-tolerance engine with mineral oil can have catastrophic results. Not only does it not afford protection but it - the mineral oil - will form a 'globule' - a ball - inside the oil sump/pan that will block the oil pump pick-up with absolute catastrophic results - very quickly.

In Europe the Saab 9-5 model had, amongst others, a V8 3000c diesel engine fitted. It was a zero-tolerance engine. Many of these cars ended up with wrecked engines simply because owners had topped up with the wrong oil. And, on a zero-tolerance engine the oil level itself is critical so much so that Saab modified the oil dipstick so that owners overfilled with oil by 1 litre. A zero-tolerance engine doesn't tolerate a 'slightly lower' oil level.

Most drivers wouldn't know if their car was a zero-tolerance engine. If you use fully synthetic 0-30W (or follow the manufacturer's recommendation) you won't go far wrong. You can use fully synthetic 0-30W in your 1956 Cadillac if you wish. It won't harm it.

Other grades of fully synthetic are fully suitable for all non-zero tolerance engines.

The difference between fully synthetic (apart from the price) and semi synthetic and mineral is that of durability. Fully synthetic 'breaks down' slower .. in other words, it lasts longer as a 'lubricant' ... does its job better.

Short journeys destroy engine oil - particularly mineral oil. Toxins and carbons accumulate in the oil and cause it to break down into 'sludge'. Semi synthetic oil is more resistant to breaking down, and fully synthetic is even better.

If you've got a decent car with a decent engine - use fully synthetic 0-30W. If it isn't a 'zero-tolerance' engine use any fully synthetic oil or semi synthetic oil.

If you have an old 1998 4 litre Jeep that burns oil like I have, a cheap mineral oil will do. But do change the oil and filter regularly. Regular oil/filter changes promotes the life of your engine - irrespective of what car you drive - and it really does prevent mechanical problems such as noisy camshafts/engine knocks.
on Nov 06, 2015 • Cars & Trucks
15helpful
3answers

'Check gauges" light comes on and oil pressure gauge reads zero.

The first thing I would definitely do there is change the oil. Used oil tends to loose lubricity and becomes thinner than it was when in the container. When hot, it becomes even thinner and will cause a drop in pressure.
Most jeep engines hold around six quarts of oil, so by adding what you did the new oil helped a bit but cannot correct the problem.
I would change the oil and use either a 20w50 oil with a pint of Marvel oil, or change to a good synthetic with a container of Lucas additive. It is possible that whatever oil you have been using is causing a carbon buildup that is beginning to block off the pump pickup screen. Either of the above suggestions will help with that. In engine oils, price is important...cheaper oils are high paraffin base which causes deposits to form.
You don't want that in your engine. Only exception is Wal-mart store brand oil which I believe is Quaker State (re-packaged). If you opt for a synthetic, it's not a bad choice and is cheaper.
Make sure you use a good quality filter. The filter is what keeps the oil clean and useful during its lifespan.
One note... If there is any tapping or knocking inside the engine, that is caused by internal bearing wear and should be corrected immediately. No oil can compensate for internal pressure loss and if caught early, can be repaired. (otherwise, later, engine will need to come out and be overhauled or replaced.)
Any pressure problems can be verified by installing an external mechanical gauge on the engine. That is the only way to know exactly what is going on with any degree of accuracy. (dash gauge is electro-mechanical).
good luck

2helpful
3answers

It plunges down to zero at times then reads eratic

Your oil becomes too fluid as the engine gets warmer. When the engine rotates slower at stops, the oil pump won't make pressure. At speeds, more oil is pumped and the pressure rises.
Have you recently changed your oil? Or maybe is too old. The real problem would be if you read zero at normal cruising revolutions.
2helpful
2answers

Oil pressure gauge reads normal when first starts. as it warms up, gauge goes to zero. If I rev engine, gauge goes back to normal.

Two things...when it reads zero, is there any engine noise (tapping or knocking)? After you rev the engine does the pressure read normal at idle and function normally, or does it go back down? Either way, you should not drive the vehicle 'till you have a mechanical gauge (yours is electro-mechanical) put on there and the actual pressure is tested. The condition may be a bad sending unit, a bad bearing or possible obstructed oil pump screen. The repair is obviously different for each one and the price is as well.
0helpful
1answer

White fumes in the engine oil filler cap

Sounds like you have blown the head gasket when it got overheated.. The white stuff in the oil cap is emusified oil, a bit like mayonnaise.
You will almost certainly need to replace head gasket and service the cylinder head.
0helpful
2answers

Falcon does not change out of first gear until the oil gets hot.

if the oil was black this indicates major issues in the transmission, transmission fluid should be a bright beautiful red color you need to get your transmission repaired soon as possible.
unless they drained the engine oil>>>>>>?
1helpful
1answer

Oil Pressure Gauge/Engine rattle 2000 Ford Explorer 4.0 6cyc 4wd

Your Oil Pump is Out and will need to be Replaced. This is not a Job that you would want to attempt on your Own unless you have been a Mechanic. Trust Me. Been an ASE Certified Mechanic for 35 Years.
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