Air conditioning accumulator assembly dumped fluid, no prior service to system
First I noticed the substance on the floor of my gasrage. It presented as a large watermelon sized greasy stain on the floor by the right front tire, and a small accumulation of fluid up by where the garage door meets the floor. Concerned, and being as it was time for an oil change, I took my car in. Told them about it & asked them to check for any leaks. Even though it did not smell like coolant, it was that color - that's what I told them. Oil got changed, no leaks found, yay for me, but when I drove away the air conditioner was blowing hot air. I went right back & they inspected with a black light & said the fluid I saw on the floor of my garage was from the accumulator & that it had to be replaced. I'm just wondering, what caused this to happen & is replacing the part the only way to fix it.
Thank you ploppybax, it was actually an after repair question, cost me just over $400 to have the accumulator replaced - I even asked the service manager to reassure me that "stuff just breaks/wears out, it's nothing I did wrong, it's not my fault..." which he gladly did. I trust this repair shop, I just wondered if the repair they did was appropriate. It sounds like it was.Thank you ploppybax, it was actually an after repair question, cost me just over $400 to have the accumulator replaced - I even asked the service manager to reassure me that "stuff just breaks/wears out, it's nothing I did wrong, it's not my fault..." which he gladly did. I trust this repair shop, I just wondered if the repair they did was appropriate. It sounds like it was.
I would suggest u use the Live Chat option for this problem for a prompt answer.I would suggest u use the Live Chat option for this problem for a prompt answer.
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Re: Air conditioning accumulator assembly dumped fluid,...
It sounds like the accumulator has either corroded or a seal is leaking, air con pipes tend to corroded, due to being aluminum and force the seal from its' seat, best thing to do is check where the leak is from exactly, it sounds like there is a special dye in the system (hence the pool on the floor). The ultraviolet light (black light) along with special glasses can spot the leak easily. Please make sure that if you have a leak that the system is vacuumed down, to avoid poluting the atmosphere. Also if you remove pipes, make sure you replace them quicly as moisture from the air will quickly upset the system. What ever the way, you need to go to an aircon specialist to get it fixed and recharged ready for the summer heat!
Hope this helps
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Try to check your HYDROVAC assembly.. remove assembly and detach brake master, see if there are fluids present on the accumulator tank of the hydrovac. replace brake master rubber caps or brake master assembly.
on the brake calipers ther is a bleeder screw. It looks like a grease fitting.1) fill brake fluid 2) have a helper pump the brake pedal ( vehicle not running ) 6 - 8 times to the floor and release then press pedal to the floor and hold with foot pressure pressing down. 3) at this time loosen the bleeder valve and the pressure and air will release,( do not allow brake pedal to release or come up, continue to hold to the floor ! ) after pressure and any noticeable air bubbles and no more fluid comes out then this is the time to tighten or (close ) the bleeder screw. 4) continue this process untill no visable air bubbles are present, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU CHECK THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR AFTER TWO BLEEDINGS AND FILL AS NECESSARY ! 5) Continue the procedure on the opposite side. Do the two front wheels and the rear wheels as a pair as the brake system is a two part system, FRONT & REAR
Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Check the level often during the procedure.
Starting with the right rear wheel, remove the protective cap from the bleeder, if equipped, and place where it will not be lost. Clean the bleed screw. When bleeding the brakes, keep face away from the brake area. Spewing fluid may cause facial and/or visual damage. Do not allow brake fluid to spill on the vehicle's finish; it will remove the paint.
If the system is empty, the most efficient way to get fluid down to the wheel is to loosen the bleeder about 1?2 - 3?4 turn, place a finger firmly over the bleeder and have a helper pump the brakes slowly until fluid comes out the bleeder. Once fluid is at the bleeder, close it before the pedal is released inside the vehicle.
NOTE: If the pedal is pumped rapidly, the fluid will churn and create small air bubbles, which are difficult to remove from the system. These air bubbles will eventually congregate resulting in a spongy pedal.
Once fluid has been pumped to the caliper or wheel cylinder, open the bleed screw again, have the helper press the brake pedal to the floor, lock the bleeder and have the helper slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds and repeat the procedure (including the 15 second wait) until no more air comes out of the bleeder upon application of the brake pedal. Remember to close the bleeder before the pedal is released inside the vehicle each time the bleeder is opened. If not, air will be induced into the system.
If a helper is not available, connect a small hose to the bleeder, place the end in a container of brake fluid and proceed to pump the pedal from inside the vehicle until no more air comes out the bleeder. The hose will prevent air from entering the system.
Repeat the procedure on remaining wheel cylinders in order:
Step 1: Left front
Step 2: Left rear
Step 3: Right front
Hydraulic brake systems must be totally flushed if the fluid becomes contaminated with water, dirt or other corrosive chemicals. To flush, bleed the entire system until all fluid has been replaced with the correct type of new fluid.
Install the bleeder cap(s) on the bleeder to keep dirt out. Always road test the vehicle after brake work of any kind is done.
Turn the ignition switch OFF throughout this procedure.
Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
Remove the reservoir cap. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
Using the bleeder adapter tool, install it onto the fluid reservoir.
Attach a diaphragm type pressure bleeder to the adapter and charge the bleeder to 20 psi.
Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to either front wheel caliper and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and purge the caliper until bubble free fluid flows from the hose.
Tighten the bleeder screw and remove the bleeder equipment.
Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the pump to charge the accumulator.
After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the system to charge.
NOTE: The pump will turn OFF when the system is charged.
Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to a rear wheel bleeder valve and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and slightly depress the brake pedal for at least 10 seconds or until air is removed from the brake system. Close the bleeder valve.
NOTE: It is a good idea to check the fluid level several times during the bleeding operation. Remember, depressurize the system before checking the reservoir fluid.
Repeat the bleeding procedure for the other rear wheel.
After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
Disconnect the bleeder hose.
Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
Disconnect the bleeder hose.
Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
The problem may be that the master cylinder needs to be bench bled,there is most likely air trapped in the piston of the master cylinder.The problem comes from the piston not being fully actuated when connected to the pedal assembly.A vacuum bleeder will generally pull it out.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION
After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait 2 minutes
for the driver-s/passenger-s air bag system capacitor to discharge
before attempting to do any work around the steering column or
instrument
On diesel models, remove the passenger side battery and battery tray.
Remove the instrument panel by performing the following procedures:
Remove the air bag control module (ACM) and bracket from the floor panel tunnel.
Remove the trim from both cowl side inner panels.
Remove the steering column-to-instrument panel opening cover.
Remove the 2 hood latch release handle-to-instrument panel lower reinforcement screws and lower the handle to the floor.
Disconnect the driver-s side air bag module wiring harness connector from the lower instrument panel reinforcement.
Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position and lock the
steering wheel. Remove the steering column without disassembling it.
From under the driver-s side of the instrument, disconnect or remove the following items:
Parking brake release handle linkage rod from the parking brake mechanism located on the left cowl side inner panel.Instrument panel wiring harness connector from the parking brake switch located on the parking brake mechanism.Three wiring harness connectors (body wiring harness, headlight,
dash) from the 3 junction block connector receptacles located closest
to the dash panel.Head light/dash-to-instrument panel bulkhead wiring harness connector screw and disconnect the connector.Instrument panel-to-door wiring harness connector located directly below the bulkhead wiring harness connector.Infinity sound system wiring harness connector (if equipped),
located at the outboard side of the instrument panel bulkhead connector.Stop light switch electrical connector.Vacuum harness connector located near the left side of the heater/air conditioning housing.
Under the passenger-s side of the instrument panel, disconnect the radio antenna coaxial cable connector.
Loosen both sides of the instrument panel cowl side roll-down bracket screws about
1
/
2
inch (13mm).
Remove the 5 upper instrument panel-to-upper dash panel screws; remove the center screw last.
Roll down the instrument panel and install a temporary hook in
the center hole on top of the panel. Attach the other end to the center
hole in the top of the dash panel. The opening should be approximately
18 inches (46cm).
Disconnect the instrument panel-to-heater/air conditioning housing assembly wiring harness connectors.
Using an assistant, remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
If equipped with air conditioning, perform the following procedure:
Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the evaporator. Plug the openings to prevent contamination.
Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the accumulator. Plug the openings to prevent contamination.
Remove the accumulator.
Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
Remove the PCM from the dash panel and move it aside. Do not disconnect the PCM harness connector.
In the engine compartment, remove the heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-chassis nuts.
In the passenger-s compartment, remove the heater/air conditioning housing-to-dash panel nuts.
Pull the heater/air conditioning housing assembly rearward far enough to clear the studs and air conditioning drain tube holes.
Remove the heater/air conditioning housing assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the upper-to-lower heater/air conditioning housing screws and remove the upper housing.
Remove the heater core from the lower housing.
Fig. View of the heater/air conditioning housing assembly
Does it have a hydroboost brake booster? Is the belt still on the p/s pump? Have you checked the power steering fluid level? If yes and good to all, replace the Power steering Pump.
The heater-A/C housing assembly must be removed from the vehicle and the two halves of the housing separated for service access of the heater core, evaporator coil, blend-air door, and each of the various mode control doors.
WARNING: On vehicles equipped with airbags, refer to Airbag Systems Safety Information and Procedures. Before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.See: Restraint Systems\Air Bag Systems\Service Precautions
REMOVAL
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Disconnect the liquid line refrigerant line fitting from the evaporator inlet tube.
Install plugs in, or tape over all of the opened refrigerant line fittings.
Disconnect the accumulator inlet tube refrigerant line fitting from the evaporator outlet tube. See Refrigerant Line Coupler for the procedures.
Install plugs in, or tape over all of the opened refrigerant line fittings.
Drain the engine cooling system.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened heater core tubes.
Unplug the heater-A/C system vacuum supply line connector from the tee fitting near the heater core tubes.
Unplug the heater-A/C unit wire harness connector, which is fastened to the heater-A/C housing next to the blower motor relay.
Remove the five nuts from the heater-A/C housing mounting studs on the engine compartment side of the dash panel. Remove or reposition the evaporation canister for additional access, if required.
Pull the heater-A/C housing rearward far enough for the mounting studs and the evaporator condensate drain tube to clear the dash panel holes.
Remove the heater-A/C housing from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Position the heater-A/C housing to the dash panel. Be certain that the evaporator condensate drain tube and the housing mounting studs are inserted into their correct mounting holes.
Install and tighten the five nuts onto the heater-A/C housing mounting studs on the engine compartment side of the dash panel. Tighten the nuts to 6.2 Nm (55 in. lbs.) .
If the evaporation canister was repositioned during the removal procedure, reinstall it to its proper position.
Connect the Heater-A/C system vacuum supply line connector to the tee fitting near the heater core tubes.
Unplug or remove the tape from the heater core tubes. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core tubes and fill the engine cooling system.
If the vehicle is not equipped with air conditioning, go to Step 10. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, unplug or remove the tape from the accumulator inlet tube and the evaporator outlet tube fittings. Connect the accumulator inlet tube coupler to the evaporator outlet tube.
Unplug or remove the tape from the liquid line and the evaporator inlet tube fittings. Connect the liquid line coupler to the evaporator inlet tube.
WARNING: On vehicles equipped with airbags, refer to Airbag Systems Safety Information and Procedures. Before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.See: Restraint Systems\Air Bag Systems\Service Precautions
Fig. View of the heater core
Thank you ploppybax, it was actually an after repair question, cost me just over $400 to have the accumulator replaced - I even asked the service manager to reassure me that "stuff just breaks/wears out, it's nothing I did wrong, it's not my fault..." which he gladly did. I trust this repair shop, I just wondered if the repair they did was appropriate. It sounds like it was.
I would suggest u use the Live Chat option for this problem for a prompt answer.
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