In reverse or drive, acts flooded. Cools down, starts and runs good til you stop again. Replaced distrub, cap , rotor, pick up coil, engine position sendor, fuel regulator, main coil, computer, engine position senser,and fuel pump. Vaccumn is 15 to 17. Smokee tested, no leaks.
Sounds like a weak fuel pump ...
How do u take afuel regulator ouof a1992 dodge ram 150
2 or 4 barrel?
If auto choke, chk yhat for opening.
Msnifold vac fluctuating or thats just the range? Sounds a little high. neck time you start the motor, give the throttle a snap and vck the coke play position Cold running the choke should be 1/4 - 1/3 open. If you need info on how to adjust let me know Hot, or at operating temp, choke should be wide open. Good luck.
After deeper review, The Mass Air flow sensor may be the problem in as much as it sends cignal the ECU to regulate fuel demands... you said no codes, so unplug the MAF sensor and plug it back in. then see if you get a code.. I'm sorry, but I'm digging also to find your answer.
Ok, this problem existed before you did any of the items you listed? did it develope since? Using a vacuum gauge does the vacuum pulse between 15-17 at an idle?. Remove the pcv valve and ck for crankcase vacuum. If crankcase has vacuum, Your intake manifold gasket is leaking. If vacuum pulses, You have a burnt valve. In either case the engine will run and tend to smooth out at cruising.. Damaged or leaking intake manifold gasket will cause some backfiring, burnt valve rough idle Check the Mass air flow sensor. It regulates or tell the ecm how much fuel is in demand. If sensor says no air then there won't be any fuel. Free air flow is a must at an idle ( clean air filter. I hope this helps. The last thing will be the ignition timing. How does the exhaust cime out the tail pipe? Does it feel to be drifting or forced out? I'm sorry, but all these things need to be chk'd. Let me know please. How is it for power? Feel strong? or gimpy?
chuck;
The maf sensor would be on the intake duct coming out of the air cleaner. The first sensor. Its function is to inform the ecu on how much air flow there is and the ecu provides the fuel proportionately. The reason for exhaust pressure is that if the catalyctic converter is restricted it will inhibit the combustion with back pressure which you can see the effect if you blocked the tailpipe. combine poor combustion and poor flow through the cylinders will cause the maf sensor to indicate there is no air flow and minimize the fuel provided.. Try this. Fire up the engine and run it till it for a minute or so then have someone shut it off. The exhaust should immediately stop. If exhaust continues for a few seconds than the converter is restricting.. The longer it continues to exhaust, the worse the restriction. You can use a tissue at the pipe opening to pick up any discharge you might not feel.. Let me know good luck
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Then i think i'd be dumping some soapy water on the intake gaskets checking for leaks. ANd wiggle the **** out of all vacuum hoses. ( you probably did that) And if there aren't any, your cam could be tired. You got a tough one there. Hard to figure with a keyboard.
So you know it's not the cam then i guess. And there are no vacuum leaks at all. Cool.Why don't you share with us what the problem is then?
That was the problem. You were trying to run it without the air filter?
And you've checked your engine ground connection, and all other connectios are tight?
I'm out. You're not reading me.
replace the idle control sensor
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Forgot to say it is fule injection
EGR checks OK
No error codes on read out.
Timing gear and chain replaced.
Problem happened all of a sudden. No warning. Don`t believe it is the cams.
Air filter is off ,
It just quits running when it warms up to normal operating temp. Let it cool down and it runs again til you stop at a stop sings, then you have to floor the gas peddle to get it started, black smoke comes out of the exhaust, clears up, put it in reverse or drive and it stalls right away. We have changed the fuel regulater also.
AM
It just runs til it reaches operating temp, stop at a stop sign and it quits. Floor the peddle and it starts , smoke comes out of the exhaust, clears up, put it in reverse or drive and it stalls. Restart, same thing. Let it sit till it cools down and it will start and run til you stop. Have changed the fuel regulator also. It is a magnum engine Ram charger 150.
Am
It does the same thing with or without the air filter. I havent checked all the wiring conecctions but will do so. Am closing for tonight Thank you. Chuck
Hi Ourhowse
Still
Hi Ourhouse, What is the MAF and where is it?? Problem existed before and after changing all those parts except the timing gear. It don`t run very far before it quits, like 2 blocks, before it was til you stoped.Vacuum steady at 17. No crankcase pressure, no backfiring. Air filter new. Exhast has very little pressure, I would say it is normal. Mechanic replacxed timing parts. Timing light still says it fires before top dead center by about an inch on the flywheel. Same position as before the change. Thanks, Chuck
Vacuum leaks, timing chain, air filter, camshaft worn lobes?
EGR?
Sounds like a short in wires for mag pickup where it goes through the distributor housing had a ford that had same problem and thats whatit was
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