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shannon Oneill Posted on May 16, 2009
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Radiator under too much pressure?

While on 40 mile trip, on a cool evening,my radiator hose blew off and i lost all my coolant. I put hose back on w/ better hose clamps, filled radiator, and kept driving. Then a hole blew in the same hose. During this entire drive my heater was on its highest setting. So why is my radiator over pressured?

  • 2 more comments 
  • shannon Oneill May 16, 2009

    i had a white frothy oil on the underside of the oil filler cap(which doesn't seal completely because it's missing a gaskette). This happened when hose 1st blew off and emptied coolant/water all over the motor. I replaced hose and cleaned white froth off the cap and it didn't happen again. Dipstick was normal before, during, and after the hose blew. I never once overheated.

  • shannon Oneill May 16, 2009

    And yes, it could've just been an old hose and worn out clamps. Ive since replaced hose and clamps with new, and flushed and refilled radiator. Havent driven it much, but seems to be working normal again. Aside from the heater blower going out the same day as the hose problems.

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    It is possible the hose was just old and weak like csmock132 stated, but other than that the only situation I've seen cause that much pressure build-up is a blown head gasket. You will see a mucky substance, or coolant on your oil dipstick if your head gasket is blown. A bad radiator nor a bad thermostat would not cause that much pressure to build.

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    Do you have coolant, or a mucky substance on your oil dipstick?

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  • Posted on May 16, 2009
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It might of just been a defective hose because if the pressure gets to high, the radiator cap will relieve the pressure when it reaches the pressure stamped on the cap.

  • Anonymous May 16, 2009

    The white stuff on the cap is likely condensation. It is normal. The heater likely isn't working because you still have air in the system.

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  • Posted on May 16, 2009
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Either radiator is bad or thermostat is bad

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2000 grand Marquis radiator cap blew off

There is 14 .2 foot pounds of pressure in your cooling system .
The problem is some one didn't tighten the cap correctly you have to push down on it turn it then turn it until it locks so its two turns ..
The good news is the cooling system is likely fine its holding pressure .But if you have to add coolant you should do it through the recovery bottle that has no pressure follow the hose under the radiator cap that will lead to the recovery system storage bottle .
This will also indicate the antifreeze level on the side of the unit ..
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Where is the thermstat at in a 1998 ford taurus?

I'm guessing you can't find it because it's in a separate housing or located under the lower battery tray in the housing (depending on model of engine). Even though this is specific for 1998; I believe it's the same for 1996-1999 Taurus's. I have access to illustrations, but only .gif and/or .bmp extensions were available which would not copy here. If you need these, I will try an extension change to .jpg. Good luck, this should be enough info. It is helpful to include the engine size in question, for future reference...

Thermostat, Water


c:\users\bob\appdata\local\temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif CAUTION: Do not mix Standard (green) Coolant with Extended Life Coolant (orange). If mixing occurs, drain engine cooling system and refill with originally equipped coolant type. If this contamination occurs the service change interval on Extended Life Coolant will be reduced from 6 years/150,000 miles to 3 years/30,000 miles.
1.c:\users\bob\appdata\local\temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE AND/OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE, USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP FROM A HOT COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE. WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP AND TURN IT SLOWLY UNTIL PRESSURE BEGINS TO RELEASE. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN CERTAIN ALL PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED, PRESS DOWN ON THE PRESSURE CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP

THE ABOVE APPLIES TO ALL MODELS

3.0L (2V) Engine

Removal

Drain the engine cooling system so that the engine coolant level is below the water thermostat (8575) as described.
2.Disconnect the upper radiator hose (8260) from the water hose connection (8592) .
3.Remove the three water inlet connection retaining bolts. Remove the water hose connection .
4.Remove the gasket and water thermostat from the water hose connection . Do not reuse gasket.
Installation
1.Install the water thermostat , gasket and water hose connection as illustrated.
2.Install and alternately tighten the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (89-124 lb-in).
3.Connect the upper radiator hose to the water hose connection .
4.Fill the engine cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA (green), (in Oregon, F5FZ-19549-CC, in Canada, Motorcraft CXC-10), or Ford Extended Life Engine Coolant F6AZ-19544-AA (orange), or DEX-COOL coolant, or a coolant meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D and water, as described under Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding procedure.
5.Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
6.Stop the engine. Top off degas bottle as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.
c:\users\bob\appdata\local\temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image002.gif
3.0L (4V) Engine
Removal

Drain the engine cooling system so that the engine coolant level is below the water thermostat ; refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
2.Raise vehicle on hoist.
3.Disconnect the lower radiator hose (8286) from the water inlet connection.
4.Remove the two water inlet connection retaining bolts. Remove the water inlet connection.
5.Remove the O-ring seal and water thermostat from the water thermostat housing. Inspect O-ring for damage and replace if necessary.
6.If required, remove water thermostat housing retaining bolts, water thermostat housing and O-ring from lower radiator hose tube. Inspect O-ring for damage and replace if necessary.

Installation
1.Install the water thermostat , O-ring, water thermostat housing (if removed) as shown.
2.Install and alternately tighten the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in).
3.Connect the lower radiator hose to the water inlet connection.
4.Lower vehicle.
5.Fill the engine cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA (green), (in Oregon, F5FZ-19549-CC, in Canada, Motorcraft CXC-10), or Ford Extended Life Engine Coolant F6AZ-19544-AA (orange), or DEX-COOL coolant, or a coolant meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D and water; refer to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
6.Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
7.Stop the engine. Top off degas bottle as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.
c:\users\bob\appdata\local\temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image003.gif
3.4L SHO
Removal
Drain the engine cooling system so that the engine coolant level is below the water thermostat ; refer to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
2.Remove battery.
3.Remove power distribution box.
4.Remove battery tray.
5.Disconnect upper radiator hose and position out of the way.
6.Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the water inlet connection (8K528) .
7.Remove the two retaining bolts. Remove the water inlet connection .
8.Remove the O-ring seal and water thermostat from the water pump (8501) . Inspect O-ring for damage and replace if necessary.

Thermostat

Installation
1.Install the water thermostat , O-rings and water inlet connection as illustrated.
2.Install and alternately tighten the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in).
3.Connect the lower radiator hose to the water inlet connection .
4.Install upper radiator hose . Position spring clamp securely.
5.Install battery tray.
6.Install power distribution box.
7.Install battery.
8.Fill the engine cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA (green), (in Oregon, F5FZ-19549-CC, in Canada, Motorcraft CXC-10), or Ford Extended Life Engine Coolant F6AZ-19544-AA (orange), or DEX-COOL coolant, or a coolant meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D and water; refer to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
9.Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens.
10.Stop the engine. Top off degas bottle as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.


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Coolant leak under car

I would begin by utilizing our shop's standard cooling system procedure.....
INSPECT COOLANT LEVEL,
TEST SPECIFIC GRAVITY,
****PRESSURE TEST SYSTEM,
****PRESSURE TEST RADIATOR/EXPANSION TANK CAP,
INSPECT DRIVE BELT(s),
****INSPECT COOLANT HOSES,
****INSPECT HEATER HOSES,
****INSPECT BYPASS/MISC. COOLANT HOSES/PIPES,
TEST THERMOSTAT OPERATION,
INSPECT RADIATOR TEMPERATURE,
INSPECT RADIATOR COOLING FAN(s)/CLUTCH OPERATION,
INSPECT CONDENSER/AUXILARY COOLING FAN(s) OPERATION(s)
INSPECT RADIATOR & CONDENSER FOR DEBRI,
OBSERVE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE OPERATION,

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

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