1998 Honda Accord Logo

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Shaneka Clyburn Posted on Dec 18, 2013
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98 honda accord ex wont crank

Wont crank ...changed out motor and wont crank...could it be the cam/crank shaft or knock sensor

1 Answer

Daniel Mc Entee

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  • Honda Master 1,449 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 19, 2013
Daniel Mc Entee
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Joined: Oct 21, 2012
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Check the wiring on the solenoid on top of your starter.and check your fuses.

5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Sep 22, 2008

SOURCE: 98 HONDA ACCORDEX RADIO CODE

Radio codes are avail. from the origional dealer. If you did not purchase the car new usually the original dealer has them. You will need to show proof of ownwership. Hopefully the original dealer has not perched his records.
These codes are needed every time you disconnect your battery.,if you ever want to use your radio again

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Anonymous

  • 126 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 03, 2009

SOURCE: i cant locate the knock sensor

Under hood, center, lower engine area, above exhaust pipe flange, mounted in exhaust manifold

Anonymous

  • 25 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 17, 2010

SOURCE: blower motor 1991 honda accord ex

the blower motor is located behind and under the glove box. its held to the blower housing by three screws. remove the three screws and the motor will slide down and towards you. to test the motor. apply power to the yelllow/black wire and ground to the blue/red wire. the motor should run. if not you prob have a faulty power resistor. 0881be0.jpg

Anonymous

  • 360 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 13, 2011

SOURCE: where is the crank shaft

The CKP crankshaft position sensor is located behind the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the following procedures to test, and replace the sensor.

To Test
2.7L ENGINE If the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) PO335 and or PO336 is thrown, perform the following test.

  1. Reset the Electronic Control Module (ECM), as outlined under clearing codes later in this section.
  2. Start the engine. Does the code reoccur? If so proceed on to the next step. If not, the problem is intermittent and you should check for loose connections and poor grounds.
  3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  4. Detach the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) 2-prong connector.
  5. Check the resistance between terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there 1850-2450 ohms? If not, replace the sensor. If so, go on to the next step.
  6. Check for ground between both terminals and the body of the vehicle.
  7. Is there continuity? If so, replace the CKP sensor. If not, move on to the next step.
  8. Attach the CKP sensor connector.
  9. Detach the ECM connector "C".
  10. Measure the resistance between B8 and B16. Is there 1850-2450 ohms? If so, move on to the next step. If not, repair the open in the wire between the ECM and the CKP sensor.
  11. Check the continuity between the body ground and the ECM connector terminal B8. Is there continuity? If your answer is YES, repair the short in the wire between the ECM and the CKP sensor. If not, Honda recommends substituting a known good ECM. If the vehicle stops throwing the above code(s), replace the ECM with a new unit.
3.0L ENGINE If the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) PO335 and or PO336 is thrown, perform the following test.
  1. Reset the Electronic Control Module (ECM), as outlined under clearing codes later in this section.
  2. Start the engine. Does the code reoccur? If so proceed on to the next step. If not, the problem is intermittent and you should check for loose connections and poor grounds.
  3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  4. Detach the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor 2-prong connector.
  5. Check the resistance between terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there 1850-2450 ohms? If not, replace the sensor. If so, go on to the next step.
  6. Check for ground between both terminals and the body of the vehicle.
  7. Is there continuity? If so, replace the CKP sensor. If not, move on to the next step.
  8. Attach the CKP sensor connector.
  9. Detach the ECM connector "C".
  10. Measure the resistance between C8 and C9. Is there 1850-2450 ohms? If so, move on to the next step. If not, repair the open in the wire between the ECM and the CKP sensor.
  11. Check the continuity between the body ground and the ECM connector terminal C8. Is there continuity? If your answer is YES, repair the short in the wire between the ECM and the CKP sensor. If not, Honda recommends substituting a known good ECM. If the vehicle stops throwing the above code(s), replace the ECM with a new unit.
To Replace Sensor
  1. Remove the negative battery cable.
  2. Detach the CKP sensor electrical connector at the front of the lower timing belt cover.
  3. Remove the accessory drive belts. Refer to Section 1 for specific details on belt removal.
  4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. Refer to Section 3 for specific details.
  5. Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  6. Remove the CKP sensor. NOTE: The CKP sensor is part of the Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor on some models and must be replaced as an unit.
  7. Install the CKP sensor in the reverse order of removal.
Belt Removal

CAUTION
Always disable the power to the vehicle by disconnecting the negative battery cable before checking, replacing or adjusting the drive belts. Working with the drive belts requires placing tools, hands and fingers near areas of potential danger. In addition, the cooling fan could engage even with the ignition in the OFF position. V-Belts If a belt must be replaced, the driven unit or idler pulley must be loosened and moved to its extreme loosest position, generally by moving it toward the center of the engine. After removing the old belt, check the pulleys for dirt or built-up material, which could affect belt contact. Carefully install the new belt, remembering that it is new and unused; it may appear to be just a little too small to fit over the pulley flanges. Fit the belt over the largest pulley (usually the crankshaft pulley at the bottom center of the engine) first, then work on the smaller one(s). Gentle pressure in the direction of rotation is helpful. Some belts run around a third, or idler pulley, which acts as an additional pivot in the belt's path. It may be possible to loosen the idler pulley as well as the main component, making the job much easier. Depending on which belt(s) being changed, it may be necessary to loosen or remove other interfering belts to access the being replaced. When buying replacement belts, remember that the fit is critical according to the length of the belt ("diameter") and the width of the belt. The belt shape should match the shape of the pulley exactly. Belts that are not an exact match can cause noise, slippage and premature failure. After the new belt is installed, draw tension on it by moving the driven unit or idler pulley away from the engine and tighten its mounting bolts. This is sometimes a three or four-handed job; and an assistant could be helpful. Make sure that all the bolts that have been loosened are retightened and that any other loosened belts have the correct tension. A new belt can be expected to stretch a bit after installation, so be prepared to readjust the new belt, if needed, within the first two hundred miles of use. Serpentine Belts Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. All the belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked" all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys. NOTE: Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, make sure the routing matches that of the belt routing label or one of the diagrams in this book.
  1. Note the radio presets and disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If necessary, remove the power steering belt.
  3. Use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from underneath the tensioner pulley itself.
  4. Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner's internal parts.
  5. Remove the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine. To install:
  6. Begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley the belt was first released from during removal for last.
  7. Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. Carefully release the pressure on the tensioner and it to contact with the belt, making sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
  8. Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check the installation.
  9. Install and properly tension the power steering belt.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable, enter the radio presets, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
  11. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range.

Anonymous

  • 4803 Answers
  • Posted on May 10, 2011

SOURCE: Were is the crank position sensor located on a 98

There is no 2.2L motor in a 1998 Honda Accord.
The Crankshaft Position Sensor for the 2.3L 4-Cyl. engine is located behind the crankshaft pulley on the oil pump assembly.

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p0113 is for intake air tempoerature sensor errors. that sensor measures air ehich enters the engine. it is least important. its effect may not be noticable when weather is not extremely cold.

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