93 chevy K1500 4x4 In the process of changing the right axle seal & bearings, I found a mangled "washer" that is located in front of the output shaft & pilot bearing. Chilton just calls it a "shim" & my local part stores don't have a clue, or part number for it. Is this something I need to try to make myself? What exactly is the purpose for this "shim"? existing shim is 2.25 mm thick x 43.5 mm OD x 11 mm ID

1. Jack up the vehicle: Use a floor jack to lift the rear of the vehicle off the ground.
2. Remove the wheel: Remove the wheel and tire from the rear axle.
3. Access the seals: Locate the rear outer seals on the axle and remove any retaining clips that hold them in place.
4. Remove the old seals: Use a seal puller or a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully remove the old seals. Be careful not to damage the axle or surrounding components during this process.
5. Clean the axle: Clean the surface of the axle where the new seals will be installed to ensure a proper seal.
6. Install the new seals: Carefully place the new seals onto the axle and secure them in place with the retaining clips.
7. Replace the wheel: Replace the wheel and tire and lower the vehicle back to the ground.

It may be helpful to have a service manual for your vehicle on hand, as well as specialized tools such as a seal puller or a bearing packer. In addition, a clean and well-lit workspace will help make the process easier.

Pull the axles & take to an auto parts
store to R&R the axle bearings

if the parts department do not have a photo or listing for the part it may be a seal from the bearing that was being replaced
they look like shims and many are metal in manufacture
they seal the grease in a bearing but if the bearing is failing , they will be knocked out of position and then flap around loose

Adjustment

The wheel bearings on these vehicles are not adjustable. If the bearings become loose or make noise, they must be replaced.

Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. On 4WD vehicles, remove wheel center cap, if equipped, and the drive axle nut and washer
3. Raise and support the vehicle.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   NOTE Lay the hub and bearing on the wheel studs on the outboard side. This will avoid damaging the bearing seal.
   
   
   Tire and wheel Caliper, leaving the fluid lines connected Brake rotor Halfshaft from the hub and bearing on 4WD vehicles. Place a brass drift against the outer edge of the halfshaft to protect the shaft threads. Use a hammer to sharply strike the brass drift, but to do not remove the halfshaft at this time. Wheel speed sensor Wheel hub and bearing-to-steering knuckle bolts and hub and bearing
   
   
   Splash shield from the steering knuckle Seal from the hub and bearing
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   Wheel hub and bearing seal Splash shield to the steering knuckle, making sure it-s properly aligned Hub and bearing to the steering knuckle, aligning the threaded holes Hub and bearing bolts and tighten to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) Wheel speed sensor. Tighten the bolt to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). Rotor and brake caliper Tire and wheel
   The Hub Bearing Torque - Front
   
   If Torque Specs are not in the box we recommend youtorque to this setting. Axle Nut: 103 Ft/Lbs.Flange Bolts: 77 Ft/Lbs. WARNING: Failure to observe the following warningscould create a risk of death or serious injury.Proper maintenance and handling practices arecritical.Always follow installation instructions and maintainproper lubrication.Every reasonable effort has been made to ensure theaccuracy of the information contained in thiswriting, but no liability is accepted for errors,omissions or for any other reason.This information is not intended to substitute forthe specific recommendations of your vehiclemanufacturer.Always use the recommended torque requirement unlessotherwise specified in the carton.Depending on the application, type of hub unitbearing and location, the installation process mayvary.Please review the vehicle manufacturer'srecommendation before removing or installingcomponents.
   
2. Lower the vehicle
3. On 4WD vehicles, install the drive axle nut and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm), then install the center cap.

Axle Shaft Bearing & Seal Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the axle shaft.
3. If replacing only the seal, remove the seal using a suitable seal removal tool.
4. If replacing the seal and bearing on the 8.6 inch axle, install the slide hammer and adapter behind the bearing and pull out the bearing and seal together.
5. If replacing the rear axle shaft seal and the bearing on the 9.75 inch axle, install the J 29712 or equivalent bearing puller into the axle housing behind the axle bearing.
6. Remove the axle shaft seal and the bearing by tightening the nut on the J 29712 bearing puller.

Use a slide hammer, bearing puller and adapter to remove the old axle bearing

To Install:

1. Install the axle shaft bearing using a suitable size driver. Drive the bearing into the housing until the tool bottoms against the tube.
2. Lubricate the seal lip and install the seal with a suitable seal driver. Make sure the seal is fully seated in the axle tube.
3. Install the axle shaft.
4. Fill the rear axle with the correct lubricant.
5. Lower the vehicle.

remove the cv axle from the side you are changing. then on the parrengers side unbolt the housing from the frame and unbolt the housing extension tube from the rest of the housing. the bearrings and seal should be there ready for removal. on the drivers side hook your slide hammer to the axle flange and beat the #$@% out of it. tryy not to pry on the housing it is easy to break. good luck my dad has a 8 lb slide and he has been sliding away for over an hour with no luck, he is ready to pull the housing split it in half and press it out. hope this helps.

That will be a Huge job. The whole front diff must come out of the car and the case will need to be taken apart to even gain acess to the carrier side bearings.
The hub bearing is where the wheel bolts up is that maybe what you are talking about?
Also the axle seal isn't that bad to do you need to remove the cv shaft then it's just a simple remove the seal and install the new one.
But all of these jobs will be big ones.

you have to raise vechicle.use jack stands.block rear wheels.apply parking brake.when loosen axle nut.its more easier to leave wheel on.let vechicle weight hold wheel from turning while you loosen axle nut.you need to get a 1/2 break bar or large ratchett wrench with a deep socket .you need to buy socket use to remove axle nut a regular socket would probably break.when you remove the axle nut.remove brake caliper and brake pads.set them aside dont disconnect brake caliper.get a piece of wire to hang it out the way.dont use brake hose.could damage it. remove brake caliper support bracket then the rotor.get a hub removing tool remove hub.then loosen hub and bearings bolts .then remove shield hub and bearings assembly with O-ring.disconnect ball joint from steering knuckle using the proper tool.remove the halfshaft assembly and tap the seal from the steering knuckle.remove the steering knuckle from the hub.now that drive axle out the way.get the seal removing tool.its a flat tool with two hooks on it.to pry seal out transmission.or you can use a small chisel to clapse the seal but be careful dont damage the seal housing.when installing new seal coat it with transmission fluid.drive it in using a large socket.if you are reusing same axle replace circlip on the end of it.now putting back together.install a new hub and bearing seal in the steering knuckle with a seal installer tool .install steering knuckle to the strut.lubricate the hub and bearings with grease.install halfshaft.connect ball joint to the steering knuckle .install a new O-ring around the hub and bearing assembly.install hub and bearing assembly into the steering knuckle.tighten bolts to 75 ft lbs.install rotor then brake caliper support bracket bolts 120 to148 ft lbs.this is mounting bracket bolts only not the caliper bolts to brake shoes.put brake shoes and caliper back on torque 38 ft lbs.install shaft washer the axle nut to 180 ft lbs.tighten much as you can.before setting car on ground.to torque it to 180 ft lbs place car wheel back on set it down so the car weight keep wheel from turning.i hope this information works out for you good luck.and work safe.

I see that the solution given is for an axle shaft and not the drive shaft that was asked about. I am 99% sure that if you take out the bolts the other end will slide out of the t-case. Then the u-joint can be replaced as normally done.

Here is a picture step by step guide from autozone:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Rear+Axle&partName=Drive+Train&pageId=0900c1528008f4d4&subChapterTitle=Axle+Shaft%2C+Bearing%2C+And+Seal&partId=0900c1528008f406