The heater has been going out slowing, used to work, then only worked while driving now doesn't work at all. Have been noticing a small leak for about a month but tonight it was bad. When I turned it off a the resivor was bubbling up alot
You have a bad heater core it needs to be replaced soon, your system cannot maintain pressure and you will have massive issues and failures due to this and you will have to replace alot more than just your heater core. I hope this helps you
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SOURCE: no heat when car not moving
Ok, judging from what you've said it sounds like a vacuum issue. The temperature controls are activated by vacuum which is produced by the engine. Look for small hoses that lead from the intake manifold to the firewall, check them and make sure they are not broken, disconnected, or leaking. The vacuum directly controls the doors inside your dashboard which push the air to the heater core. Also make sure that the coolant hoses going to and from the firewall are hot. If all that checks out, then the controls inside the car may have gone bad, or may have become disconnected from the vacuum supply, or the actuator door inside the dash is stuck or broken.
SOURCE: Heater blows cold air
If the "Heater In Hose" gets hot, and the "Heater Out Hose" does not get hot, than either the Control Valve is sticking closed, or your heater core is plugged up with ****!
Have you used "Barrs Leak" or a simular product for a radiator leak? That will sometimes clog the heater core.
I have a 1993 Grand Cherokee, which "Normally" throws very hot air out of the heater, but lately sometimes it only throws warm air, till I make my first stop, than it gets hot.....all because the heat control valve is hanging up.
Low water in the radiator will also cause a heater to not work.....if the water level is too low to circulate to the heater.
XRM
SOURCE: 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee leaking coolant and power steering fluid
Just a heads up, $10 bucks will buy you a seal kit for the P.S. pump. I topped mine off for a couple months, then the oring on the high pressure line (from pump, front center) blew and dumped the reservoir in a matter of miles.
The line can be a stinker to get off, recommend driving the car for a few minutes to heat up the pump a little. Don't forget the 20MM wrench.
SOURCE: if gauges dont work jeep wont start
Had same promblem with my jeep, you may want to check the
"crankshaft sensor" if its bad jeep wont start.
SOURCE: My 2002 Jeep Liberty 3.7 liter is leaking coolant
The Drain Plug aka Radiator Drain **** has an o-ring on it that does wear-out over time, causing a leak. You can remove and replace these relatively ease. They only turn 1/4th to 1/3rd Counterclockwise to Open and Clockwise to Close. Work on only when the engine is cool. Leave the cap on the radiator to create a suction, decreasing the amount of radiator fluid you will lose. OR drain the Radiator Fluid into a clean container and save for reuse.
Have the new Radiator Drain **** ready for immediately insertion after removing the other leaking Radiator Drain ****. To Remove:
Twist the Radiator Drain **** counterclockwise and pull, continuing to twist counterclockwise removing it.
Immediately install the new Radiator Drain **** by first pushing in and then twisting clockwise to close.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
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My guess is it's the water pump but I'm just checking to see if maybe it could be the thermostat or maybe the return hose?
It wasn't leaking inside my jeep though. On the engine side of my fire wall
The water pump is in the front of the car so i wouldn't think that would be the problem, the only coolant that is near your firewall is the heater core on the lines leading to your heater core
Is there a way I could diagnose the problem so I don't have to tear part the dash to get to the heater core?
The best I can think of is to go to the parts store and get a coupler for the line, disconnect the heater core and put in the coupler in instead then run the car, you won't have heat at this point but if it is anything other than your heater core then your leak will continue. the coupler should cost about $2 that is what I would do
That's a great idea! I don't mind not having heat just need the leak to stop for now, thanks
No problem have a good one and repost what you find out as I an not always right and I know it. thank you
Ok so I didn't by pass the core. I flushed and back flushed the core and the radiator. Tested the thermostat, and turns out it wasn't opening properly. So I changed that hooked every thing back up filled it and no leaks so far. But I still don't have heat, so the core is bad. During research now to change it out this weekend
when the car is warm did you put your hand under the dash on the passenger side to check if the heater core itself is warm?
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