At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
tool late now.
you'd need to drive with scan tool attached then see what code
set (DTC) at failure.
can be lots of things.
bad fuel, partial clogged filter.
injector clogs. and other sensors errors.
and others, this is common rail injection system, right?
get a scan tool, and have it always ready. for fails.
First make sure the battery is fully charged and do a "load test" to make sure it is still good. then check the alternator and charging system to make sure it's working. My VW does this when it's not charging properly. When the battery gets below a certain voltage the car will automatically shut down everything electrical to keep power for the engine and the light doesn't always come on. It's usually a boken wire. Hope this helps.
I had that problem on my 1991 Mazda MX6. Indeed, it was the ignition module. As I recall, I was able to test the old one at an "Auto Zone" store near me. The problem was, however, that it tested "good" there and so I had the dilemma of trusting my instincts which told me it was bad, since I had eliminated other logical alternatives (as it appears you have as well). I strongly believed that the failure was intermittent/heat related, as I was in fact able to drive the car the next day from the parking lot I had left it at, back to my house (in order to remove the module in the convenience of my own driveway) to take it to be tested. Another clue that it was a heat-related intermittency, was that the clowns who put it in at the mazda plant had forgotten to put any heat-sink grease on the module prior to installing it...bad news. So I made the decision to risk the $98 on the new module (non-refundable, on electrical parts) and buy the new module in spite of the old one testing "good". I installed the new module, WITH the included heat-sink grease...and drove that car for another 75,000 miles, with no more ignition troubles!
check transmission fluid level! warm it up and run it through all the different positions from park to first... do this a couple of times... check the level now in park while running! if low add half bottles of tranny fluid at a time "dont" over fill it. now repeat the selection process again in all different positions. if the level is good... then you may have to take it to a shop and have it looked at.
Check the actuator motors on the inside on the heater box to see if they are working. They are small motors with rods mounted on the outside of the heater under the dash. This motor moves the arms that direct the heat to where you want it.
×