2000 expedition no crank

Is it automatic or manual. If it's automatic try putting it in neutral and then starting it

Not familiar with ATV's/motorcycles, but starting circuits are similar for all engines. Ignition switch provides 12 v to starter relay through neutral safety switch. Relay closes and provides 12 v to starter solenoid. Solenoid closes providing 12 v through battery cable to starter. Sometimes there are additional components in the circuit e.g. Theft Deterrent.

Sounds like either neutral safety switch or starter relay is being affected by heat. Check voltages in circuit when problem occurs to determine defective component an replace.

NO CRANK 101:
sure it can, but so can other things fail....
why guess, buy a $10 voltmeter and find it. no?
1: check fuse first. and if IMMO cluster light is OUT. (not immoblized by alarm)
2: if meter lost, try new starter relay, (wild guess 1:10 chances of a fix.....)
3: it can be bad wires bad, connectors, bad PRNDL switch, bad, key switch, IMMOBLIZER ACTIVE, added alarms. added remote start kits, called hacks by me.
what's there after 23 long years?
what to do....
well the steps are all easy in them selves each.
1: battery charged,fuses all test good.
2: does AAA autotow , jumper method work? jump starting car, with running other car. like all folks do, mostly, and for sure standed on the road.

3: did you hot wire the starter solenoid,"?
biggn lug to dinky lug? grrrrrgrrrrrrrrr omg the starter and battery are good. is this hard?
do so in park (wheels chocked) ok>?
the engine will not start doing this hot wire test.
a car keys in pocket SURE.

4: ok now you know for sure the stater works on the actual car. (we can bench test the too)
WORKING ON ACTUAL CAR IS IMPORTANT, TO DIAGNOSIS.
5:on this car, a Toyota Corolla in snake GM skins
we then check the voltages at the starter relay.
it has 4 pins.
2 are coil pins.
2 are power contactor pins.
we measure them cranking (a live test)
how the logic works here varies by "
a: what engine is there, unstated.
b: what trans, auto or stick>???????
c: if car was opted day one with that immoblizer.
but we can just test and let the truth win out.
lacking facts from you as to driveline actual.
Volt meter in hand, DMM set to VOLTS.
black lead of meter to battery neg post.
here are the relay pins.
the concactor relay input pin is 12vdc all the time.
it's at battery voltage .
the key switch sends 12vdc to the coil pin.
there are 4 relay pins in the drawing tell us what to expect.
pin 4 is battery voltage 12v if not, fuse blown.
as seen in the drawing.
pin 3 runs the starter solenoid (now dead)
pin 2 is grounded, 0v, cranked, if not ground bad
or IMMOBLIZER not happy, that P wire is immo
in the factory with IMMO added, the ground wire is cut, seen in the drawing.
pin 1, saving the fun for last.
i check pin 1 , yes, cranking,
11v to 12v good, if good, relay is bad.
if less than battery voltage or near 0 volts
that means the KEY Line to the relay is BAD, DEAD.
easy no?
if the line is dead, here, at pin 1,
then the clutch switch is bad, (got a stick shift)
or the PRNDL switch is bad, does it crank in Neutral> omg yes?
ok lets say pin 2 on the PRNLD switch is dead.
that means the ignition switch is bad.
but lets move on, to prove that, easy with a $10 meter, no?
at the key switch you find the ST1 pin dead. yes, cranked,
then move the red test lead to AM1 pin on key switch , its dead.
the fuse is blown or bad wring from fuse box to here.
all fuses in the drawing left side are 12vdc hot all times, both ends of fuse.
if not the fuses or wires are bad.there.















http://jeepdied.com/no-crank.html

Does starter click? Try turning on headlamps and get someone to watch as you try to start car. If headlamps dim, likely bad starter or battery cable(s). If they don't dim, bad solenoid, starter switch, neutral safety switch. Try starting in neutral and jiggle shifter while trying. If it starts, replace neutral safety switch.

I think the purple wire (or maybe the yellow) from the neutral safety switch goes to the coil side of the starter relay, turning it on so power is sent from there to the starter solenoid. You could check for this signal to the relay with a test light. The key must be held in start while you probe the other two terminals for the relay. If the signal is there, either a bad relay or the coil side of relay is not grounded properly. It is possible that the coil side ground is the neutral safety switch-grounding the relay's coil side only in park or neutral-in which case the nagging light on shifter (between off and run, it only works?) may be telling you the safety switch is the problem.

You may need to look at a wiring diagram, Greg. But the starter relay is the last component in the start circuit before the starter solenoid. From battery to ignition switch to "crank" fuse to neutral safety switch to starter relay to starter solenoid to starter-and back to battery through ground. That is the start circuit. Just that the wiring tying them all together makes it complicated.

Neutral safety switch? Try shifting out of park and into neutral. Is anything clicking (like a solenoid) and just the starter does not crank over? Maybe starter solenoid.

Check for power at the starter solenoid with key in crank position. Use a testlight or voltmeter to see if 12 volts is there. The circuit path is from ignition switch to neutral safety switch (automatics), or clutch safety switch (manual) and then to starter relay, if used, and to the starter solenoid.
If no power at solenoid in start, check your fuses in the power distribution box by battery. If car has any fusible links around battery, check them also for melted insulation or appearance of burning. If you do have power at solenoid in crank, the solenoid must be bad and needs replacing.

If the switch (neutral safety switch) is broken, it will not crank regardless whether you jump the battery or a new battery is installed. I don't have specific manual for your year that's why my advice is as in general. With a remote starter tool, bypassing the solenoid wire with remote starter which is connected to the positive terminal of the battery of it's other end. Once positive current flows from the battery, through the remote switch, flowing towards the solenoid, the starter should engage indicating a bad wiring harness connection from ignition switch. If it doesn't crank at all you may have a bad starter assembly and needs replacing. If your starter is clicking using it's own battery power, your battery is low of charge or your charging system is malfunctioning.

Pls, rate this suggestion, thank you.

when it wont start, turn your headlights on, see if they work if they dont, find out why. When it wont start, take a wire from the positive battery terminal and touch it to the small post on the starter solenoid, it should crank. If it now cranks, theres a problem between the ign switch and the starter solenoid.