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rear main seal usually only leaks when the car is running. though oil will slowy drip off afterwards. now the best way to tell is to remove the heat sheild that covers the flywheel and look at it and at the flywheel . is the oil only on the engine side of the cover or is it inside the cover and on the fly wheel. the rear main seal will leak into the bellhousing and on the fly wheel the oil pan gasket will leak on the front of the heat sheild.
Water pump is driven by timing chain idler and is mounted on the rear of the timing chain housing. Disconnect the neg. battery cable. Drain cooling system. Disconnect oxygen sensor connector.
Remove upper exhaust manifould heat sheild. Remove exhaust manifold brace. Remove lower exhaust manifold heat sheild. Loosen manifold to exhaust manifold spring loaded nuts. Remove radiator outlet pipe to water pump coverbolts. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Pull down on the exhaust pipe to disconnect it from exhaust manifold bolts. Disconnect outlet pipe from oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with manual tranaxle, remove exhaust maifold brace. Leave lower radiator hose attached and pull down on radiator out look pipe to disengauge from water pump. Leave outlet pipe hanging.
Lower vehicle. Remove exhaustmanifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove exhaust manifold to cylinder head nuts. Remove manifould. Remove timing chain front cover. Remove timing chain tensioner. Remove bolts bolts securing water pump cover to cylinder block. Remove water pump to timing chain housing nuts. Remove water pump attaching nuts. Remove water pump and cover assembly. Separate componets as necessary.
WHEN INSTALLING WATER PUMP MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCES THAT AFFECT SEALING. My frist one I messed up and broke the pump so becarful.
Installation
If cover was separated from body during removal, join this componets with a new gasket and hand tighten bolts. Apply bearing grease to splines of water pump drive. Set body and assemble into position.
Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Install and hand tighten bolts securing cover to cylinder block. Installand hand tighten nuts securing body to timing chain housing. Lubracate outlet pipe "O" ring with antifreeze. (I use RTV) Connect outlet pipe. Install and hand tighten bolts. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification in the following sequence. I'll ad the torque spec. at the end but this is where if you tighten out of order something will break.
pump assembly to timing chain housing nuts.
pump cover to pump body bolts
pump cover to cylinder block bolts (Bottom Bolt First)
outlet pipe to cover bolts
To complete installation reverse removel procedure.
Torque specs are 19 in. or 26mm all except water pump cover bolts which are 124 in or 14Nm
I never torque the bolts just make sure there done in the right order.
To change the plugs, do one at a time so not to mix up the sparkplug wires, remove plug wire from a plug, use sparkplug socket to remove the sparkplug make sure to gap new plugs, ask parts store for the gap setting they will give it to you when plugs are bought, the plug gapper is about $2.00. and that about it, the rear plugs are a little harder to get to but the same way to remove, some buicks came with metal heat sheild over the sparkplug boot in the rear cylinders make sure to reuse, you will know if you have them they will slide right off old boot.
Under hood , center, rear engine area, above exhaust pipe flange, mounted in exhaust manifold. May be behind a heat sheild that will have to be removed.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal. You'll need to remove the 3 bolts holding on the heat sheild to the starter, also remove the lower heat sheild on the exhaust manifold. You'll need diconnect to 2 wires attached to the starter and unbolt the 2 bolts holding the starter to the transmission/engine.
Most likely it's a heat sheild on the converter, maybe the muffler. 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. The heat sheild is welded to the converter, over time they rust away, around the welds. You can use a large diameter worm gear clamp to keep the heat sheild from rattling. The sheilds are in place so if you drive over grass, the heat from the converter won't ignite the grass.
metal sheild comes of with sparkplug wire,just spin and pull should come out then remove sheild and slide on new wire and connect back to plug,its just a slide on heat sheild.good luck.
Aloha We have just replaced all of what you have replaced, plus water pump, fuel pump, pcv valve and 02 sensor. Took it to mechanic today we had misfire on 1,2,6,7. Mechanic said that the 99 dodge is known for bad computers, he checked ours and works great turns out that it was the coil. Ours was jumping 1/4 inch and had a orange/yellow spark. it is supposed to have a 1 inch spark and be blue. This has solved our problems after 527 dollars later.
Check the coil!
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