Steering/suspension i have a mk6 escort. i have recentley fitted new track rod ends and wishbones, i have had the tracking adjusted but it keeps wearing the inside edge of my tyres and when i turn the wheel in either direction it tends to stay instead of returning

If the track rod ends were worn also the wishbones and other axle bearings may need attention.
I presume you have taken it to a shop to get the racking alignment adjusted.

Replace the steering rack after checking the track rod end bearings for play.

Torque settings Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!
Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures.
Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened.

The hardening process will improve the maximum possible load on the bolt, but it will also make the bolt relatively brittle.

Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer.
Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts.
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt.
Bolt Size 8.8 10.9 12.9 A2-70 (Stainless) 6mm (M6) 9Nm 13Nm 14Nm 7Nm 8mm (M8) 23Nm 33Nm 40Nm 17Nm 10mm (M10) 45Nm 65Nm 70Nm 33Nm 12mm (M12) 80Nm 115Nm 125Nm 57Nm 14mm (M14) 125Nm 180Nm 195Nm 16mm (M16) 195Nm 280Nm 290Nm Note than when fitting bolts into Ally threads like rivnuts, manifolds and S1 uprights then the torque may need to be reduced.

Special note for Mr. Wiki - This is the thread size, not the head size.
Engine mount torque settings (K-Series) Nm RH engine mounting bracket to engine RH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting RH engine rubber mounting to chassis RH engine steady arm bolts LH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting LH engine mounting bracket to engine Lower steady arm bracket to sump Lower steady arm bolts Use Permabond A130(A912E7033V) on the sump end bolt on the lower steady arm
Front suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper swivel joint to steering arm Lower swivel joint to plinth Steering arm to hub carrier Track rod end to steering arm Damper to lower wishbone Damper to top anchor bracket Damper anchor bracket to chassis Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Brake caliper to hub carrier Anti-roll bar rubber bush mounting clamps Anti-roll bar drop links Rear suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper and lower swivel joint ball pins Upper swivel joint plinth to hub carrier Toe-link outer ball joint to hub carrier* Toe-link inner ball joint/wishbone to sub frame** Toe link ball joint lock nuts Damper to lower wishbone Damper to chassis Upper brake caliper to hub carrier (M10) Lower brake caliper to hub carrier (M8) Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Rear hub nut ,*Check batch number of ball joint is 43273 or later
,**Check batch number of ball joint is 43725 or later

There's something worn in then suspension/steering set up. It could be a ball joint, a track rod end or a rubber bush.

Get a workshop to put your car up on a hoist and examine it. It won't take long - they will identify the fault for you

Hello there.
You should really buy a 'Haynes Manual' if you are doing this kind of work on your car.
The item you are renewing is either a 'Track rod end ' or a 'Tie Rod'..
I presume you are going to change a Track Rod End.

Here we go !

.1) First Jack up the car and support on axle stands properly. You should ALWAYS do this. Jacks CANNOT be trusted EVER.

2) Undo the small nut on the top of the Ball joint. You then need to use a Ball Joint Splitter or a 'homemade metal wedge' and big Hammer, and insert it between the two parts (Track rod end and suspension extension) and separate the two parts. The 'bolt' that the nut was on is a tapered fit so it will be hard to separate the two. .

3) When separated, undo the locknut on the other end of the Track Rod end and 'unscrew' the whole Track rod end from the Tiie Rod..
IMPORTANT Make a note of how many turns it took to 'unscrew' the Track Rod end from the Tie Rod.

4) Screw the new Track Rod end into the Tie Rod as exactly the same number of turns to take out the old one if you can. (DONT forget to put the old locknut on to the new Track Rod End first !!!!)

5) Locate the thread of the new ball joint through the Suspension extension as was initially found and then fully tighten a NEW Nyloc nut on the top of the threaded part. (If you use the old nut and the steering comes apart at 70 MPH don't blame me)

6) Tighten the lock nut on the other end on the Track Rod End.

7) Take to a Tyre shop and have the TRACKING re-aligned. If you dont do this your tyres will only last for two weeks or so. !!!!!!

Job Done

When rocking the steering there is usually some noise from a steering system that has a few miles on it especially from the majority of power steering types as not only is the rack slipper bearing likely to make noise but also the hydraulic spool valve and possibly even the rack end bush.
Sometimes the clunking noises can be worrying they are so loud.

If there are steering stops on the lower arms and hubs the noise can be very loud on full lock and a moving vehicle.

There might be track rod problems but there is no point guessing - the car has to be inspected, jacked up and the wheels shook to check for wear and free play and on the ground the steering wheel has to rocked while the steering gear is inspected.

If inspection finds nothing the noise is clearly caused by "acceptable" wear...

could be the suspension springs maybe wrong springs

guitar end? check the inner and outer tie rods and the sway bar linkage. be sure wheel bearings are good.

Hi, to me the problem sounds like the track rod ends need replacing these are what connects the steering to the hub now when you turn the wheel the track rod ends push the hubs in the way you want to turn but what happens ball joint on the track rod end get play in it is it allows the wheels to turn slightly on their own left and right now once these have been replaced you will have no problems.
if the ball joints where to break you would lose control of the car as the steering wheel would not turn the wheels as instructed and they would be free to turn any way they liked, this would cause damage to the front wings and the hub costing a fortune to put right, but as it stands the track rod ends cost very little to buy and dont cost much to get replaced.

how ever this isnt the kind of job you can do yourself as you would need to get the tracking set up to ensure the wheels are driving in a strait line as their is adjusters that need to be set up after the track rod ends are fitted.

once you have the track rod ends ( tie rods also known as) fitted you will have no further problems and you will then be in full control of your vehicle it will feel a lot more responsive to your control so this needs doing sooner rather than later.

have your suspension tested as well as stearing rack tested and not to forget swing arm and bushes, start with stearing rack / tracking.