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2009 Dodge Journey came in with very soft brake pedal, tried bleeding system, to get slightly better. Customer ok'd a master, R&R master and re-bled, nice pedal UNTIL engine starts, goes soft...SVC MGR of Chrysler said its the booster, replaced booster, still same pedal..WILL a ABS scanner bleed then re-bleed base system cure this BEFORE I send it to dealer ???
Dodge journey rear calipers will not always automatically adjust after compressing them all the way to change pads. One or both of the Pistons retracts all the way creating slack. If you're able to jiggle the brake pads or rotors the caliper piston needs to be turned counter-clockwise until there's no slack but hub is still allowed to turn.Dodge journey rear calipers will not always automatically adjust after compressing them all the way to change pads. One or both of the Pistons retracts all the way creating slack. If you're able to jiggle the brake pads or rotors the caliper piston needs to be turned counter-clockwise until there's no slack but hub is still allowed to turn.
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You still have air in the brake system and this becomes evident when the operation of the booster allows the pedal to do down as it is compressing the air in the lines more efficiently than what you can do with your foot. Try starting the bleeding procedure but undoing the lines at the master cylinder and priming the unit first to get the air out of both sides of the unit. Tighten the lines and with the help of a assistant start at the longest line first and work back to the shortest. Booster failure will result in no assistance or engine stopping from a massive vacuum leak when the valves are opened. The abs is just a motor driven pump that supplies pressure to the brake system when the wheel sensors come into operation otherwise the brake pedal pressure is operating through the ABS unit to the brakes. (An ABS is only there to keep the brake pressure constant as the sensor opens and closes a valve to stop the wheel skidding . If it is not working then pressure from the pedal may bleed back leaving you with no brakes.)
Testimonial: "Thanks Bill, I do know for fact there are SUM chrysler vehicles that require a ABS bleed procedure done in the MIDDLE of the brake bleed procedure...first bleed the base system, then use scanner and operate ABS system and perform the ABS bleed thing w/ scanner, then bleed a second time of the base system again...I KNOW when i worked for chrysler i did this to one vehicle, but dont remember which one...either way, new master, new booster, bled the hell outta system, and STILL soft pedal....."
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fill fluid have a friend help,have them hold break down open bleeder then close release brake start on closes wheel to farthest from master dont let run out fliud or youll stat over,if no friend attach hose to bleeder put it in a container with fluid in it open bleeder and pump break slowly a couple times close breather
Make sure master is full, maybe over fill new brake fluid. Find a helper to push on the brake pedal. You loosen the bleed screw (looks a little like a grease fitting with a hole in it) on the back side of the wheel until there is no more air. tighten. Refill Master cylinder. Then other side same process. Do several times. try to collect the "used" brake fluid to prevent a mess. Now do the same for the front to make sure they don't have any air. IF it still is a soft pedal better have reliable brake shop check.
If you replace the wheel cylinders or brake calipers and did not bleed them properly, you most likely have air in the lines, If the rear brakes are drum brakes they need to be adjusted (if taken apart or new parts put on) or the pedal may sink when pressed. 1. If the brake pedal is soft when pressed down, the brake lines have air in them and need bleeding to remove the air. 2. a soft brake pedal can also be a bad master cylinder. Replace the master cylinder if the lines have been bleed correctly but the pedal is still soft or sinking when the pedal is pressed.
Trapped air in the brake lines could cause that. Try bleeding both sides from d nipple on the brake caliper, be careful to top fluid as u do so. Some scan tools can however bleed brakes too. Try whichever one suits you better.
Well you need to check your fluid level on the master cylinder first. Then I suggest that you bleed the brake system. Always start bleeding from the wheel furthest away from the master.
try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons
loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal
do it for the other line and then bleed all the brakes starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest line
this is very simple but you will need an assistant. take the wheel off of the caliper you need to bleed. have your assitant keep steady pressure on the brakes while you slowly open the bleeder screw. you don't want to open it so far the brake fluid squirts all over. if the brake pedal hits the floor you will need to tighten the bleeder screw before your assistant lets off the pedal. another helpful thing to have is a clear tube that fits snugly aroung the bleeder screw so when you open it you can see the air bubbles more easily.
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
Remove the old master cylinder. Use line wrenches to avoid damage to the brake line fittings. Bench bleed the the new master cylinder you have purchased. The parts store will tell you how to accomplish this and sell you the necessary bleed kit (note it may be included with the master cyl.). Carefully install the new master cylinder. Reconnect the brake lines and do not over tighten. Now with a helper, bleed the brake system. Start at the Right Rear wheel. Find the bleeder located on the back side of the wheel at the wheel cylinder. It should have a small rubber cap. Remove the cap and using a boxed in wrench, loosen the bleeder valve slightly while your helper is applying steady pressure to the brake pedal. The pedal will go to the floor and you will see and hear air bubbles come for the bleeder. Tighten the valve and then tell the helper to release the brake pedal and do it all over again. Keep doing this until no air appears. Periodically check the master cylinder and do not allow the fluid level to get too low as it will **** more air into the system. Remind you helper to never release the brake pedal until you give the OK. If he releases the pedal while the valve is open, air will be drawn into the system. Now after bleeding the RR wheel, move to the LR, then RF, and finish with the LF.
Dodge journey rear calipers will not always automatically adjust after compressing them all the way to change pads. One or both of the Pistons retracts all the way creating slack. If you're able to jiggle the brake pads or rotors the caliper piston needs to be turned counter-clockwise until there's no slack but hub is still allowed to turn.
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