Odometer reading I have a 2008 f250 super duty diesel 4x4. I bot truck at 96k miles 2yrs ago. 2 days ago I was around 123k miles. This morning it nows says 198k. How is this possible.

SOURCE: abs light on

I'm a Ford service adviser. There are many reasons for the
abs warning indicator to come on. The usual cause is from a
faulty speed sensor. Either a wheel speed sensor or the
differential speed sensor. I don't think the light is related to your vandalism. You might want to take the truck to an auto parts store and have them read the codes for you. Most auto parts stores will do this for free.
Good Luck

SOURCE: 2000 ford f250 super duty 4x4 7.3L diesel oil leak

The HPOP (high pressure oil pump) is right under the filter housing. There are 2 lines that distribute the oil to the cylinder heads. The o-rings on those fittings go out. Kit is available from Ford or International. You will need a special wrench to get to the fittings though.

SOURCE: remove and install diesel fuel injector

First, keep everything as clean as possible. Contamination below 30 microns, which cannot be seen by humans, can destory a diesel fuel injection system. Clean everything off anything having to do with connections on the fuel system and cover any connections left open.

Begin by removing the intake manifold. This will remove the clips holding the injection lines passing underneath and around the intake runners. After removing the manifold, cover the openings in the cylinder head (I use wadded-up paper towels).

Next, remove the clips at the brackets on the injection lines closer to the injectors.

Loosen all of the injection connections at the injectors. Do not remove the lines.

You can remove the water crossover tube if it is in your way, but drain about a 1/2 gallon of coolant before your remove the crossover.

Remove the oil fill tube from the timing cover. Turn the engine clockwise, using a 15/16" socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) on the center bolt of the crankshaft. As you turn the engine over, a bolt will show up at the opening where the oil fill tube was removed. Remover the bolt and keep turning the engine over until you have removed all three bolts. Do NOT use the starter to turn the engine over and, after removing the third bolt, do NOT turn the crankshaft any more.

On top of the timing cover, behind the rounded top, is the place where the injection pump is bolted to the cover from the back side. Clean the top of the timing cover where it meets the injection pump and look for a thin line scribed into the cover and one on the injection pump. Note the position of the two lines (they are usually aligned) for reassembly.

Remove the throttle cable assembly from the injection pump. Remove all the wires from the pump and note which connection the big pink wire goes to. The other wires will be green. Remove the return hose at the top of the injection pump.

There are three nuts holding the injection pump to the timing cover and you will need a 15mm socket and/or wrench to remove them. When you do, the injection pump and injection lines can be removed as a unit. Note the position of the driveshaft of the injection pump to set the new one the same way. If you are not going to put things back together right away, cut up a plastic garbage bag and make covers for the injectors. Secure the covers with rubber bands or nylon cable ties to keep dirt out of the injectors.

Carefully transfer the injection lines to the new pump. It is possible to cross them up so pay close attention while moving the lines. Transfer the fuel inlet pipe to the new pump and whatever device is mounted on the passenger side of the old injection pump to the new pump.

Get a new injection pump to timing cover gasket and install it over the timing cover studs. Install the new injection pump after setting the driveshaft to match the holes in the gear inside the timing cover. The pump can only be installed one way since it is indexed to the gear. Reinstall the nuts on the studs and set the timing marks to the same position they were when you removed the old injection pump (the lines on top of the timing cover and the flange of the injection pump). Tighten the mounting nuts. Make sure that all the injection lines line up at their injectors, but do not tighten the connections at the injectors yet.

Put the first bolt back into the gear through the oil fill tube hole. Hand tighten it and then turn the crankshaft clockwise as before to install the remaining two bolts. Then, tighten all the bolts securely and resinstall the oil fill tube. Reinstall the throttle connections on the injection pump.

Install a new piece of 1/4" fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump (the old one is usuall brittle since it never gets changed). Remove the covers over the opening in the cylinders heads and reinstall the intake manifold using new gaskets.

Reinstall all the injection line clips that were removed and the coolant crossover tube (if you removed it and don't forget to add coolant to the radiator). Reconnect all the wiring on the injection pump, except for the big pink wire. Install a piece of clear tubing on the top of the injection pump and connect it to the return tee in front of it (where you removed the rubber hose from the old injection pump).

Now comes the fun part: Disconnect the glow plug relay connector (two small wires in a connector) from the middle of the relay. The relay is usually on the driver's fender and close to the battery.

Crank the engine, in short bursts, until you see fuel in the clear tubing on top of the injection pump. When you do, reconnect the big pink wire on the injection pump. Continue to crank the engine in short bursts (allowing the starter to rest between cranking cycles) until you see fuel dripping out of the injection lines at the injectors. When you do, tighten the connections where fuel is dripping. When all lines have been tightened, reconnect the glow plug relay connector. Remove the clear tubing on top of the injection pump and reinstall the fuel line that was removed from that location.

Then, try starting the engine normally. If it will not start, try some WD-40 down the intake. You can use ether, but you MUST disable the glow plugs be removing the connector at the relay.

The engine may run rough or stall at first but it should smooth out after all the remaining air comes out of the system.

Torque values are as follows:

Intake manifold: 25-37 ft-lbs
Gear bolts: 13-20 ft-lbs
Injection pump mounting nuts: 25-37 ft-lbs
Injection lines: 15-24 ft-lbs ("wrench tight" is fine)
Injection pump fuel inlet fitting: 15-20 ft-lbs

SOURCE: My horn does not work on my 2003 Ford f250 super duty PU truck.

The horn location is on the radiator support.

SOURCE: I have a miss in my 2003 F250 super duty, replaced

I would say to replace the sensor and see if it helps. I assume you had the truck scanned and that was the only problem. The speed sensors usually relate to the ABS and Transmission shift points.

Both Autozone and Oreillys will scan for FREE. After you replace the sensor, get a water spray bottle and go around all the seams you can find on the engine while it is running. If the RPM changes you have found the vacuum leak that is causing the miss.

There is also another test that can be done electrically. It is the cylinder balance test. This directly relates to the compression of each cylinder.
While all the Diagnostics that showed the fault are accurate, the onboard computer does not tell everything.

Usually it can miss the mechanical issues like a vacuum leak, or a bad valve in a cylinder that is firing good electrically without the whole bank running rich with the unburned fuel from that one cylinder. This is because it averages the total burn rate for each bank.

On the V8 engines there are cavities below the Airhorn for EGR flow. If your V10 is similar you may want to look under the Airhorn gasket and clean the cavities. It should only cost your time and a gasket.