Replacing rear brakes on a hummer h1 2000

Depends on many factors. 1 Are you doing the labor yourself? 2 Have the bad pads damaged the rotors? 3 Is the axle leaking grease? 4 Is the caliper leaking? 5 Are the calipers stuck? 6 What quality level pads do you want? 7 Are you using the dealer, a good shop, or some "Big Box" store?

If they order the parts from rockauto its about $630-700 in parts. $50-60 front and rear brake pads, $ 100 -115 2 better front rotors, $100 for better rear rotors, $90 for each rear caliper, 100-125 per front caliper, $10 for each rubber brake line. (The caliper prices include a core fee that you would get back $30-40 per caliper returning the old caliper, but you pay the shipping fees). The ballpark prices also include the additional shipping costs. Labor should be around 2-2.5hrs. So depending on the shop it would be $50-60/hr so total cost $100-150 for the labor. So total would be somewhere around $730-850. You can just have the one caliper replaced, you do not need to replace them all. I would get new rotors on whichever axle (front or rear) the stuck caliper is on and not get the rotors cut, because the faulty caliper could have warped the rotor. Another possibility is that it could just need a new rubber brake line. When my calipers locked on one of my classic trucks, I just replaced the old rubber line and it was good to go. -Fawkes

Ranjit,

I have the same problem with my 2008 Hummer H3. I had the front and rear rotors resurfaced. I am now thinking of getting the rotors replaced with bigger more durable rotors. Solution about the sticking brake caliper sounds about right if you hear a grinding noise as you drive without even touching the brake pedal.

Amardeep

These parts are brand new from autozone...Front brake rotor=90.00 for 2...rear rotor=60.00 for 2.....brake pads front=30.00/set...brake pads rear = 25.00/set...total = 205.00 parts
so the labor is 337.40....and the parts I looked up are not machined but NEW!!!...maybe you should do the work yourself....337 seems like alot of money....I do brakes for $50.00 labor per axle...especially if you are replacing all the parts...it's not very hard to accomplish...the front rotors easily pop off when you take off the caliper(which has to come off to do the pads) and then the rears are not really too difficult either...My opinion...either do it yourself or get another estimate...maybe there's an out of work backyard maechanic on your street you can give the job to..or if your in the indiana area...call me ...i'd be happy to do the work for ya 2196972613jeffrey

Those are special calipers. The piston cannot be just compressed back into the caliper - it needs to be turned as it is compressed or you can ruin the caliper.There is a kit you can rent from AutoZone or many independent auto parts stores that will perform both functions at the same time.
Block fron wheels and raise vehicle passenger side. Remove wheel. The caliper is on the top rear side of the assembly you're looking at.There are 2 long bolts you'll need to remove to take the caliper off the vehicle. Don't remove the brake line or open the bleeder screw ( either of these moves will add to your work!! ) Insert a large flat blade screwdriver in between the rotor and outboard brake pad and pry away from the vehicle slightly to release the pads from the rotor. Slide caliper upwards and towards the back of the vehicle to separate from rotor. The pads will come in a full set ( all 4 pads for both side of the rear ) . Look at your replacement pads and determine if they have a retainer clip holding them in place or a compression clip. Remove outboard pad first then inboard. Match old pads to replacement pads. Inspect rotor for grooves and irregular surfaces - if any grooves or irregularity present, remove rotor and take to an auto parts store for refinishing.Compress caliper piston with kit and allow 5 minutes for pressure to bleed back into the master cylinder.install rotor if removed and wipe surfaces with brake clean. Install inboard then outboard pad and place caliper on rotor, then mount to vehicle. Install wheel, repeat procedure for drivers side, then PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 5 TIMES BEFORE TRYING TO DRIVE VEHICLE to set pads on rotors.

Normally, unless the caliper is not functioning or leaking brake fluid you don't have to replace it.
Replace the rotors and pads only.

Yes, it has rear Disc Brakes, I would suggest to change the rear pads since they have to remove the rear Brake Calipers to remove the rotors and it wouldn't take much more time or labor to replace the pads at that point. That way when your rear rotors are re-installed and your new brake pads are installed your rear brakes should give you longer service life and better stopping power.

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

Depends on your driving habits. One of the best indicaters if you have never added brake fluid is the level in your master cyclinder. Rotors: if you feel a pulsation in the brake pedal under normal breaking.

take a c clamp put one of your old brake pads over the piston and tighten the clamp until piston goes back the whole way